Posted 2010-02-06 9:06 AM (#116206 - in reply to #113607) Subject: RE: bearings packed on new trailer
Regular
Posts: 92 Location: Harrisburg, PA
Well I got started on ours.
As with the last time I had removed the wheels, the lug nuts were anything but loose. Even with penetrating oil I had to fight them off with every turn. I'm shocked the threads are not damaged.
My trailer has a 10x2.5 dexter axle, which had bearing pieces from China, Slovakia, and Romania. The grease was still ok but there was the beginning of spalling on the inner bearing. I went to the local bearing supply place and they got me all replacement Timkens and SKF oil seals. For those of you who aren't machinery designers, I'm putting good pieces in place of crappy ones. I'll be using the synthetic grease.
This post could have been about the completion of the project but with 2' of snow in southern PA that's not happening for several days at least.
Posted 2010-02-06 4:27 PM (#116220 - in reply to #116206) Subject: RE: bearings packed on new trailer
Expert
Posts: 2953 Location: North Carolina
Originally written by dgeesaman on 2010-02-06 9:06 AM
Well I got started on ours.
As with the last time I had removed the wheels, the lug nuts were anything but loose. Even with penetrating oil I had to fight them off with every turn. I'm shocked the threads are not damaged.
The threads of the lug nuts might be "damaged". After a session with an over eager Neaderthal with an impact gun the lug nut's tapered seat squeezes the ID. Run the correct tap through the lugnut to fix the problem. This fixed the lugnuts of my trailer.
Posted 2010-02-06 9:06 PM (#116227 - in reply to #116206) Subject: RE: bearings packed on new trailer
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Originally written by dgeesaman on 2010-02-06 10:06 AM
Well I got started on ours. As with the last time I had removed the wheels, the lug nuts were anything but loose. Even with penetrating oil I had to fight them off with every turn. I'll be using the synthetic grease. .
If you put a dab of grease on each wheel stud before you reinstall the wheels, you will attain a better torque figure and the nuts won't rust to the studs.
Posted 2010-02-06 9:18 PM (#116228 - in reply to #116200) Subject: RE: bearings packed on new trailer
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Originally written by conner on 2010-02-06 1:17 AM
Buddy Bearings and Accu-Lube hubs are a joke!! If you shoot grease in the buddy bearing or accu-lube spindle and it over fills then you blow the rubber out of the seal and the grease will run out.
You obviously have no knowledge about the reservoir of a bearing buddy, what it is, how it is used or to what capacity. Since the introduction of Bearing Buddies, the marine field has been blessed with much fewer bearing failures due to water intrusion. At one time, the bearings had to be repacked after every immersion. Now its every several years. Many trailer manufacturers are now installing them as standard equipment.
The trailer owners using Bearing Buddies can now enjoy a reliable trailer with little maintenance. Joke? Hardly
Posted 2010-02-06 10:59 PM (#116233 - in reply to #116227) Subject: RE: bearings packed on new trailer
Regular
Posts: 92 Location: Harrisburg, PA
Originally written by gard on 2010-02-06 9:06 PM
Originally written by dgeesaman on 2010-02-06 10:06 AM
Well I got started on ours. As with the last time I had removed the wheels, the lug nuts were anything but loose. Even with penetrating oil I had to fight them off with every turn. I'll be using the synthetic grease. .
If you put a dab of grease on each wheel stud before you reinstall the wheels, you will attain a better torque figure and the nuts won't rust to the studs.
"a better torque figure" = stretched lug studs. With 50% less friction you can easily yield them. If you're going to grease or never-seize them you have to back down on the torque.
My plan is to chase the threads of the studs and replace the lug nuts.
Posted 2010-02-07 1:26 PM (#116242 - in reply to #116233) Subject: RE: bearings packed on new trailer
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Originally written by dgeesaman on 2010-02-06 11:59 PM
Originally written by gard on 2010-02-06 9:06 PM
Originally written by dgeesaman on 2010-02-06 10:06 AM
Well I got started on ours. As with the last time I had removed the wheels, the lug nuts were anything but loose. Even with penetrating oil I had to fight them off with every turn. I'll be using the synthetic grease. .
If you put a dab of grease on each wheel stud before you reinstall the wheels, you will attain a better torque figure and the nuts won't rust to the studs.
"a better torque figure" = stretched lug studs. With 50% less friction you can easily yield them.
A "better torque figure" means, that a wet torque figure is more accurate and delivers a more consistent torque than a dry assembly. If you use a wet torque, it is a common practice to reduce the stated load figures by 10-15%. Some assemblies are only rated at a wet torque value, but a dry assembly, unless specifically prohibited, can be assembled wet with much more accurate results. It also allows a much easier disassembly.
Posted 2010-02-07 3:41 PM (#116246 - in reply to #116242) Subject: RE: bearings packed on new trailer
Regular
Posts: 92 Location: Harrisburg, PA
Originally written by gard on 2010-02-07 1:26 PM
Originally written by dgeesaman on 2010-02-06 11:59 PM
Originally written by gard on 2010-02-06 9:06 PM
Originally written by dgeesaman on 2010-02-06 10:06 AM
Well I got started on ours. As with the last time I had removed the wheels, the lug nuts were anything but loose. Even with penetrating oil I had to fight them off with every turn. I'll be using the synthetic grease. .
If you put a dab of grease on each wheel stud before you reinstall the wheels, you will attain a better torque figure and the nuts won't rust to the studs.
"a better torque figure" = stretched lug studs. With 50% less friction you can easily yield them.
A "better torque figure" means, that a wet torque figure is more accurate and delivers a more consistent torque than a dry assembly. If you use a wet torque, it is a common practice to reduce the stated load figures by 10-15%. Some assemblies are only rated at a wet torque value, but a dry assembly, unless specifically prohibited, can be assembled wet with much more accurate results. It also allows a much easier disassembly.
10-15% is appropriate for a light oil. It's probably appropriate for most anti-seize products that are a suspension of metal flakes in oil. Light oil dissipates and leaves dry threads before very long.Grease (particularly EP grease) will be much different. I expect it would be highly unpredictable, bad idea.While wet torques might be more consistent in practice, you need a wet torque spec. Unless you perform an experiment to account for the difference, the reality is that we are given a dry torque spec. Clean dry threads might torque less accurately but without an accurate wet torque spec, the conversion to wet torque is at least as bad.