My trailer has the big flip out trailer door latches and I have been having a problem with my keys getting stuck in the locks and not being able to unlock the doors after I lock them. I have tried to use WD40-works sometime..Any ideas? Currently I have to put my key in the door lock of the tack compartment to unlock the door but I can NOT pull it back out, I have to relock the tack each time. My escape door is locked-can not get it unlocked at all.
Anyone else have this problem? My trailer is 2 yrs old.
Posted 2009-08-06 4:07 PM (#109077 - in reply to #109073) Subject: RE: Featherlite door locks - GRRRRR
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Get a used syringe from the last round of immunization shots, and partially fill it with automotive ATF (transmission fluid). Insert the needle in the lock's cylinder assy as far as possible, and while retracting it, continuously inject a few units of fluid. Coat the key liberally with the same fluid and insert the key. Gently try to turn it, going back frequently to the original position.
Do not force the key, but keep trying to move it. Continue applying the fluid, and unless the lock is physically broken, this process will usually loosen things up.
Posted 2009-08-06 5:11 PM (#109083 - in reply to #109073) Subject: RE: Featherlite door locks - GRRRRR
Member
Posts: 26 Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Since you have already tried WD40 this won't help but in the future use dry graphite on any lock instead of a liquid or aerosol. The problem with most lubricants is they attract dust and dirt which actually compounds the problem. Ask any locksmith and they will always recommend graphite, you can find it at most hardware store and any locksmith
Posted 2009-08-07 10:12 AM (#109118 - in reply to #109073) Subject: RE: Featherlite door locks - GRRRRR
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 399 Location: Ottawa, Illinois 61350
It seems as though the whole horse trailer industry has gone to using Bauer locks on their trailers. In my opinion, they did so for one reason: cheaper than Tri-Mark or other lock systems. We have had our share of problems with Bauer locks; so if that is what your F/L is using for a lock, that is part of the problem. The Bauer lock uses a tumbler that can be set with a master key at first, and than changed to a regular key for that particular lock. This may not have anything to do with your lock; but I'm guessing it is a Bauer lock.
Posted 2009-08-07 11:08 PM (#109153 - in reply to #109083) Subject: RE: Featherlite door locks - GRRRRR
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 544 Location: Claxton, Ga.
Originally written by walbern1 on 2009-08-06 9:11 PM
Since you have already tried WD40 this won't help but in the future use dry graphite on any lock instead of a liquid or aerosol. The problem with most lubricants is they attract dust and dirt which actually compounds the problem. Ask any locksmith and they will always recommend graphite, you can find it at most hardware store and any locksmith
This statement is very true. All oil will do is compound the issue later down the road. You may want to try some contact cleaner first and dry it with compressed air, then hit it with some dry graphite. Another thing that will work is some throttle body cleaner from BG. Once it dries it dose leave a little film of lubricant to prevent throttle body butterfly's from sticking. It is a small amount and should not attract much dirt/dust. Then you can apply the dry graphit. Just clean the lock first, let it dry, then shoot in the dry graphite.
Posted 2009-08-08 1:44 PM (#109165 - in reply to #109073) Subject: RE: Featherlite door locks - GRRRRR
Member
Posts: 48 Location: Jackson,California 95642
Have had customers that have bought locks that are in freezing weather and the locksmiths have recommended 2 lubricants for all situations.... Lock Saver brand lubricant and Teflon Silicone lubricant....Dupont has a brand of Teflon lubricant that is at most Lowes stores. These lubricants are good to at least 25 degrees below zero and in wet weather....Ken
Featherlite door locks - GRRRRR
