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covered parking for my rigs

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Last activity 2013-05-04 10:15 PM
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S123
Reg. Apr 2011
Posted 2013-04-29 4:59 PM (#151666)
Subject: covered parking for my rigs


Member


Posts: 21

Location: WA State
I live in the Seattle area - we get about 40" of rain a year, very little snow, but that rain comes in small dribbles over about 8 months so trailers get alot of exposure to the rain. If you aren't careful, moss will grow - I am not making that up!

I own a 2horse logan that is about 18' including the tongue. My truck is about 21' so we are at 39-40' long. I use this rig at least weekly year around, sometimes more.

I also have a Featherlite gooseneck/weekender that has a 24' box plus 8' gooseneck part - so 32' long. I visualize parking my little tractor (that i don't own yet) under the gooseneck/in front. I use this rig ALOT from April to Oct but it sits 5-6 months out of the year

I am dreaming of a carport type shelter that i can park them side by side out of the rain, including leaving the truck hooked to the 2 horse. So, that measures out to being around 40' long for the truck plus the 2Horse. The height of my tallest trailer is 9' (measurements are a little rough as I did them without help, would confirm before ordering!)

So, a couple of questions regarding a metal carport type structure. How wide would you say to go? I was thinking 24' wide so I have lots of room to open doors - breathing room so to speak. I will need to back in so want a little wiggle room there too - but I am pretty good at backing after living with a very tight parking situation the last few years. I was thinking 10' tall legs but I need to check if that is tall enough if I put a gable on the end. I am debating on length - I would like to go 45' to have overhang and room on the end but that extra 5' adds alot to the cost. I am also thinking of having the siding come down the sides part ways to keep the sideways rain out during the winter.

I would do a gravel base (like a driveway) and skip the cost of concrete.

I know really nothing about these type of buildings and am wondering what wisdom any of you may have to share.

I tell you it is tempting to enclose it... but then we are talking about really putting in a metal building aren't we. :)

Thanks in advance for sharing your tips and advice!
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hosspuller
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2013-04-29 7:55 PM (#151674 - in reply to #151666)
Subject: RE: covered parking for my rigs


Expert


Posts: 2958
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Location: North Carolina
If you have or will have a roof mounted a/c ... remember to have enough roof to clear it, when you're jacking the GN off the truck.
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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2013-04-29 10:29 PM (#151678 - in reply to #151666)
Subject: RE: covered parking for my rigs


Expert


Posts: 5870
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Location: western PA

You can build an open pole building structure, (if you don't have heavy winds) and finish closing it in at a later date, if your finances and needs determine it necessary. If your structure is constantly being subjected to heavy winds, the sides should be enclosed at the same time during construction. The most expensive cost of a structure is the foundation and roof. A pole structure is far less expensive than utilising a poured footer, and surfacing walls can be effected somewhat reasonably, compared to the other costs.

Install a plastic sheeting base under the stone. This will lower the amount of moisture from the ground from accumulating on the underside of the trailer. It doesn't matter how large you build the structure, it quickly grows smaller when it is being used. When it's built, they (things) will come. I would add at least ten feet to each dimension to allow wiggle room when the trailer is parked. The height of your walls will become the bottom of your trusses. As was previously mentioned, it is wise to have a couple of feet extra in height to clear a AC unit. If you don't have one now, you may want one in the future.

Our barn and main doors are built with 14' walls. At various times hay wagons, delivery dumps and farm machinery have been moved in and out. If the construction had been any lower, we would not have been able to move these things inside the barn.

Basic advice, build as large as your budget allows, then add another 25%. You will be surprised how quickly you will out grow your building. 

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genebob
Reg. Nov 2007
Posted 2013-05-04 10:15 PM (#151784 - in reply to #151666)
Subject: RE: covered parking for my rigs


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Posts: 714
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Location: Minnesota
In 2001 we started out to build a 36 x 36 garage/shed. It quickly grew to be 48 x 48 with 12' side walls, Thought it was huge! Pole building with steel sides an roof. One whole side was designated to be trailer parking with 10 x10 overhead doors on each end for a drive through. Still haven't opened one door because it is a wet spot in the pasture. At the time we had a 16' gooseneck stock trailer with a 4' dressing room. When we trade up to a LQ with AC, couldn't get it in the door!

Two years ago we built a lean to on the barn to house our trailer. 18' wide with 16' side wall on the low side and a 14 x 14 overhead door. Gravel floor. We only built it 48' long on 60' length of the barn, but were able to keep the existing water hydrant inside at the back of the lean to. I can fill the water tank right there and We put an 8' sliding door on the side for using the hydrant or carrying things in and out of the trailer such as saddles. I've also put a wheel barrow there and mucked out the horse compartment from there. I think this is a perfect size for our trailer (3H with 12' LQ) and any possible future upgrade. I did wire a 30 amp outlet both inside and outside so I can keep the trailer plugged in anytime without an adaptor, and is also available for guests to use for their trailer/camper. The only thing I should have done was insulate the roof to eliminate condensation.

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