Hi all,

I have run across a 1996 4 Star 3h Gooseneck.  I was never going to consider buying something of that age but it appears to be in really good shape.  I have not seen it in person yet.   It looks like it needs to be acid washed.  It's pretty dull but the inside horse area looks clean.  Can a trailer of that age be made shiny again?  The trailer has the old style heavy duty mats that run all the way up the wall.  It looks like it's built like tank.  I wanted your advice on things I should look when buying an older trailer.  Also, what are your thoughts about resale value?  Do trailers ever become "worthless" after a certain age and then you just can't get rid of them? Is it the scrap yard at that point?

Regards,

Kim

Starting a checklist for things to check for:

1.  Axles (how do I check those; what am I looking for)

2.  Brakes

3.  Coupler (not sure what I should look for there)

What else?

4-Star trailers seem to hold their value very well. The older trailers look to be built a little heavier than the newer models. Be sure to check under the mats really good for pitting and any signs of corrosion. That trailer is 15 years old and there's no way to tell what kind of maintenance has been done until the mats are out and the floor scrubbed clean. Here's a 1999 that looks like it just had a good acid bath...!! All nice and shiny again.

http://www.horsetrailerworld.com/home/trailerdetail.asp?ID=295117

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Thanks!

I will add:  "floor corrosion under mats" to the list. 

P.S.  I saw that trailer and thought very strongly about it.  It's really nice and I like the escape door.  The one I'm looking at doesn't have the escape door but it does have the same rear door/ramp configuration. Probably by the time I got done with tax, tag and title, it wouldn't be worth it but it certainly is a nice trailer.  That's another subject.

It's very important that you check all the windows and doors for integrity and operation, along with the hinges, latches and all the attaching hardware. Many manufacturers change these items over the years, and if they are damaged, they may be difficult or impossible to replace. Ask for the keys and try them in the locks.

Another inspection should be made under the rear most section of the trailer. The rear cross member is welded /riveted at each end to the side rails. When ever a trailer is dragged on a rough road, these joints and structure are subject to damage.

You've already added this to your check list, but I have to emphasise its importance. Inspect the aluminum floor for corrosion. 4Star uses a sheet flooring. It may be dented and somewhat flexible. That's OK. Any holes, small piles or streaks of dark gray or whitish powder, should be carefully scrutinised. The underside of the flooring should also be carefully inspected. If any corrosion is found, these problems, if moderate, can be addressed and repaired.

You can check how well the axles are functioning, by looking at the wear patterns on the tires. If they are worn evenly across the tire's surface, you can assume the axles aren't bent or knocked out of alignment. The tires may have more wear in the center or both outside areas. This only indicates abnormal tire pressures. If they have cupping on the thread, or are worn bald on one side and not the other, there is an alignment problem which will require mainenance to repair.

Very soon after your purchase, the wheels should be pulled, the brakes inspected and the wheel bearings cleaned, inspected, changed if necessary, repacked and reinstalled. The brakes and bearings are some of the most critical maintenance items you should address.

The tires should be inspected for wear and their age determined. If they have to be replaced, you can expect to spend $175-$250 per tire. (E range 16" LT) They should be replaced regardless of wear, after 6 or 7 years of age.

The jack should be inspected for proper operation and greased. This is a maintenance item often missed by many owners.

This trailer already has depreciated almost as much as it's going to. Acid washed, the mechanics up to snuff, everything working, you could probably sell it in five years for about what you are now paying for it. A ten or fifteen year old trailer has taken a majority of the depreciation. It's value then on, will be determined primarily upon its condition and visual appeal. As long as it looks and operates well, there is no scrap heap in its future.

Thanks so much you guys!  You have mentioned some stuff that I never thought about.

Here is the list now:

1.  Axles - check wear pattern on tires; even on both sides of trailer?  Look for balding and cupping.

2.  Brakes/Wheels/Wheel bearings - inspect, cleaned, repacked

3.  Floor - above and below - corrosion via holes, piles or streaks of dark gray or whitish powder; some dents and some flexibility ok. 

4.  Rubber/plastic items inside and out - moulding, windows seals,  stripping, chaulking

5.  Windows & doors - integrity and operation of (do keys work in locks)

6.  Hinges, latches & attaching hardware

7.  Rear cross member at each end of side rails-check welds & rivets and overall cross member for joint and structure damage, etc.

8.  Tires - dry rot, wear patterns, tread thickness

9.  Jack - greased and operational

10.  Coupler - movable

11.  Electrical

Anything else I should add to the list?

If an axle is found to be out of alignment, what does it take to fix that problem?  Is it expensive?

Is it difficult or expensive to fix floor corrosion?  How much corrosion is too much?

Best way to check for roof or other leaks?

How will I know which manufacturers have changed their hardware to the point that it is not replaceable on older trailers?  Is there a list somewhere?

Should I look at the axles themselves?  Any particular spots I should check?

Electrical - anything in particular there?

Thanks again.  I appreciate the wealth of knowledge.

Kim

I purchased an even older 4 Star last year - a 1992 model.  I have been very happy with it.  The only thing I have had to repair is one of the T-style door latches. All of the rubber is still good. The first thing I did was take it to get new tires (they were the originals!) and have the bearings packed.  I am adding LQ to the trailer and in my research I have found that I am able to get most of the parts for the trailer if I would ever need them.

One thing you might do while you are looking at the trailer (if it is at their home) is to look around and see if the home and property is well maintained.  That will give you a good indication of how well the trailer was taken care of.  Years ago I sold a car to someone who did not even bother to drive it - when I asked him why he would do that he said that based on how my property looked he was pretty sure that I had taken care of the car in the same manner.  That really stuck with me

If you follow pricing for high end trailers, they really hold their value.

I had a 4 Star dealer add the drop bars to a trailer for $200 per window. I wouldn't waste money on trying to add a drop door to the escape  unless you plan to carry 3 horses every single time. If so, it will be $$$.  If not, you would more than likely use the front stall for hay, feed, etc which means more than likely the drop would be up anyway. I find that a must have for me is drop doors all the way around since I travel alot.