I just purchased a 2004 Exiss 4 horse slant with a 3 1/2' unfinished dressing room.

The nose is leaking bad.  The whole front of the nose ahead of where the mattress goes is wet.  It also gets wet by the door, and some other spots on the bunk and floor.

A friend caulked a seam on the nose that is weather checked and had some holes in it and that seemed to help the nose, but not the rest.

I think I will have him strip all the old caulk and re do it.  Hopefully this will help.

Is this a problem with Exiss trailers?  I have had Cherokee and Featherlite, but never have had a problem with this.

Any ideas if this will work and what kind of caulk to get?  I am going to go to a RV dealer to get it, but thought I would ask here.

The rear doors also leak...but we are going to put a lip above them to stop the water from running off the roof right into the back doors.

My trailer doesn't leak, but my friend's BP slant did..  She went to an RV dealer who helped her seal the top of the trailer as well as redo the caulk.   Might be worth looking into something like KoolSeal or another product like that. 

Good luck!!!!   I am sure you will get it figured out.

Jbsny

Well thanks so much Gard for your kind comment...geesh!

Thanks for the names of some stuff to use, I will definantly get some good stuff

http://www.horsetrailerworld.com/forum/thread-view.asp?threadid=13650

I like the industrial polyurethane marine varieties made by 3M and Sika (Rule). Most big box stores and better hardware stores, also sell various polyurethane brands that hold up much better than the household silicone varients.

Many RV dealers have their particular favourites, but I have found some to be very expensive when compared to most name brands.

We purchased a 2001 Exiss 4 Horse about 2 years ago for super cheap due to the same problem. When it rained, water came in everywhere. We resealed all the windows and seams. Then we applied this to the roof: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xi0/R-202076578/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The patching cement works like a charm. We apply it to all of our trailers every 2 to 3 years and haven't had any leaks since. It doesn't have to be trowled on, you can use a paint brush and it dries white. One gallon does about 3 thick coats on all of the roof seams on a pretty good sized trailer, you could easily get away with one gallon for your 4 horse.

I had a brand new Lakota and it NEVER stopped leaking... have to admit Lakota was very nice, they even sent someone to my house to pick the thing up, took it back to the factory, fixed one leak, had it back here after a week and I discovered about 3 more leaks.  It also spent some time at the local RV place and they never fixed the leaking issue either.   I think the whole trailer was a lemon but that's another story.  

I am going to home depot after work with my list.  Hope I don't get an idiot! LOL!

Well I went to Menards... I got some stuff, this is what it says on it...

Roof & Flashing Sealant...Polyurethane.  Says on the label.... PL Polyurethane Roof & Flashing Sealant is a premium quality, commercial grade sealant used for forming permanent, water and weather proof seals.

Bonds to: Asphalt, Metal, Brick, Figerglass, Aluminum.

It is black in color.  Don't really care, as it is on the roof, so I won't see most of it!  I sure hope it works.  I bought five tube of it to start with.  I mainly want the dressing room part done.

So will it work?

Couple more questions....I want to put a 3/4 wall on the front stall, is that possible after market?  If so, how and where can I find this or how can I do it myself?

Second question...the back doors leak, so my tack gets wet.  It runs off the roof and goes right into the doors as there is no ledge there.  How can I get one of those or make one of those and not have it look redneckish! LOL!

Thanks guys!

Redneck Trailer Supplies sells drip rail, I'm thinking it may work for you. I was thinking about trying it on my Dream Coach after I discovered my trailer is the same way and the water runs down it and directly into the windows.

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/2009/H.pdf

As for the divider, we used a piece of thick plywood cut to fit the bottom of the divider, then put marine grade polyurethane on it and attached it to the divider with self-tapping screws.