The breakaway cable on our 2h bumper pull has broken free and I'm not quite sure of the "correct" way to repair it.
What I can see is it's a coated steel cable with a crimp connection on the end and the crimp has let go. I do now that the breakaway cable needs to be shorter than the chain to ensure that if the chain is pulled taut the cable will trip the breakaway brake. How should I route this cable, where should I attach the free end, and what should I use to replace that crimp that will not come apart again.
Posted 2010-04-27 10:02 PM (#119452 - in reply to #119450) Subject: RE: Breakaway cable repair
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
The crimp is often called a NICO press sleeve. It and replacement cable are available at trailer, RV, marine and aircraft sales. You will need the corresponding swaging tool for the best compression, or a pair of vice grip pliers will work fairly well. If they are not available, you can use a mini clamp to adjoin the two pieces of cable.
Posted 2010-04-28 5:54 PM (#119486 - in reply to #119450) Subject: RE: Breakaway cable repair
Regular
Posts: 92 Location: Harrisburg, PA
Do you find the Nico crimps to be sufficiently durable? That's what was installed originally on ours and it let go.Should I form the loop around one of the eyelets of the chain hooks?David
Posted 2010-04-28 6:45 PM (#119488 - in reply to #119450) Subject: RE: Breakaway cable repair
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
The Nico sleeves, if used with a Nico swaging tool, will result in a mechanical connection as strong as the cable. The problem arises when the wrong material sleeve is used, IE a copper sleeve on a bare steel cable. What invariably happens a while later, is the cable will break under the sleeve. This is caused by electrolysis, the reaction between dissimilar metals. If a stainless sleeve is used on the steel cable, you will have a long term joint.
If you go to the RV place, marina etc, have them make you a cable with a swaged loop on each end, one being larger than the other. The larger one will enable you to thread the other end through itself, and you can then connect it to various objects like a chain link, tie down cleat or loop etc. The other smaller end, can be fitted with an "S" hook, snap or any attachment you need.
Posted 2010-04-28 9:36 PM (#119492 - in reply to #119488) Subject: RE: Breakaway cable repair
Regular
Posts: 92 Location: Harrisburg, PA
Originally written by gard on 2010-04-28 6:45 PM
The Nico sleeves, if used with a Nico swaging tool, will result in a mechanical connection as strong as the cable. The problem arises when the wrong material sleeve is used, IE a copper sleeve on a bare steel cable. What invariably happens a while later, is the cable will break under the sleeve. This is caused by electrolysis, the reaction between dissimilar metals. If a stainless sleeve is used on the steel cable, you will have a long term joint.
If you go to the RV place, marina etc, have them make you a cable with a swaged loop on each end, one being larger than the other. The larger one will enable you to thread the other end through itself, and you can then connect it to various objects like a chain link, tie down cleat or loop etc. The other smaller end, can be fitted with an "S" hook, snap or any attachment you need.
Good idea. IIRC the original cable is steel jacketed in plastic coating. The crimp didn't seem to hold well on that.
Breakaway cable repair
