Posted 2010-01-21 9:10 AM (#115539) Subject: light wiring issue
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 330 Location: northeast Texas
We had a Cherokee LQ trailer that I wrecked and we replaced it with an identical Cherokee LQ trailer. On the first trailer the loading lights, manger lights and interior horse compartment lights were wired to work without the trailer being plugged into the truck. I have recently discovered on the new trailer the same lights do not work unless the trailer is plugged into the truck. So that tells me it is not wired into the trailer batteries. Correct ? This trailer is insulated and lined in the horse compartment so the wiring in the tray is covered. Any idea what I need to do and how difficult would it be to wire them into the trailer batteries ? Would there be a way where they come into the wires going to the trailer plug cord ?
Posted 2010-01-21 9:38 AM (#115540 - in reply to #115539) Subject: RE: light wiring issue
Elite Veteran
Posts: 736 Location: Western WA
Do you have a battery disconnect switch? I thought I had the same problem until I discovered a switch that disconnected the trailer batteries. Mine is in the LQ near the electric service panel.
Posted 2010-01-21 9:44 AM (#115542 - in reply to #115539) Subject: RE: light wiring issue
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
If you find the junction box for the trailer's cord, (some where near the front of the trailer), you can run a jumper from your trailer battery B+ to the trailer hot wire that feeds your internal wiring.
A more sophisticated way is to install a DPDT switch that cuts out the truck's power supply when you're using the trailer battery or vice versa. Depending on if the trailer's plug were attached to the truck or not, you could then select your power source without interference from the other.
I performed this same modification on one of my trailers, and it has been most convenient.
Posted 2010-01-21 10:37 AM (#115544 - in reply to #115540) Subject: RE: light wiring issue
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 330 Location: northeast Texas
Originally written by headhunter on 2010-01-21 9:38 AM
Do you have a battery disconnect switch? I thought I had the same problem until I discovered a switch that disconnected the trailer batteries. Mine is in the LQ near the electric service panel.
If you are talking about the main disconnect, then yes we have that. Ours is on and stays on as the fridge requires 12 volt when we unplug from the shore line. We use our trailer very frequently even in winter so the fridge stays packed and we do not turn the main disconnect switch off. The trouble I think seems to be that the auxiliary lights were not wired hot, to work off the trailer batteries alone. I dont think I quite understand the DDTP thing Gard.
Posted 2010-01-21 11:53 AM (#115550 - in reply to #115539) Subject: RE: light wiring issue
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
A Double Pull Double Throw switch will allow you to power a single circuit from two different power supplies, IE, a stand alone battery or the truck's power supply. It will allow you to use either circuit while isolating the other.
You can also choose not to use this feature and "hot" wire the battery to the internal light circuit. However, if a light switch were left on, it would kill the trailer battery. It would over ride the protection you now have, while using the truck's power supply.
Posted 2010-01-21 1:20 PM (#115554 - in reply to #115550) Subject: RE: light wiring issue
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 330 Location: northeast Texas
Originally written by gard on 2010-01-21 11:53 AMYou can also choose not to use this feature and "hot" wire the battery to the internal light circuit. However, if a light switch were left on, it would kill the trailer battery. It would over ride the protection you now have, while using the truck's power supply.
Gard
This I understand. But we often unhook and I need the trailer auxiliary lights to feed and saddle in the dark. Yes I have a headlamp but I prefer to switch on the lights. The load lights are nice as they light up a large area which helps neighbors out as well. I can park next to the trailer and plug in, which can be dangerous for the plug. LOL Would probably need to turn off lights AND unplug the cord. If they were wired into the trailer battery like they are supposed to be and I was plugged into electric they wouldnt run the trailer battery down. Anyhow I was just wondering since the wires are concealed in the wire tray due to it being lined and insulated how to go about wiring them in hot.
Posted 2010-01-21 1:49 PM (#115556 - in reply to #115539) Subject: RE: light wiring issue
Elite Veteran
Posts: 795 Location: Tenn/Ala.
From what it is worth, I also read into this that your batteries will not charge from the truck. It is apparenent the LQ folks did all of their wiring and did not touch the trailer's wiring- perfectly acceptable, but not what you are used to. If this is important to you, you need to get the LQs 12V side & the trailer's accessory circuits together. This will often best be done in or around the neck, where both of these circuits will be in the same proximity. In many units they are simply wired together. Gard makes note of a switch, but most coachs will not have one.
Posted 2010-01-21 2:08 PM (#115558 - in reply to #115556) Subject: RE: light wiring issue
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 330 Location: northeast Texas
Originally written by RTSmith on 2010-01-21 1:49 PM
From what it is worth, I also read into this that your batteries will not charge from the truck.It is apparenent the LQ folks did all of their wiring and did not touch the trailer's wiring- perfectly acceptable, but not what you are used to. If this is important to you, you need to get the LQs 12V side & the trailer's accessory circuits together. This will often best be done in or around the neck, where both of these circuits will be in the same proximity. In many units they are simply wired together. Gard makes note of a switch, but most coachs will not have one.
Well I dont know about the batteries charging from the truck. I have a generator though that I can recharge the trailer batteries with. Actually Cherokee does their own LQ. Mine has the DreamCatcher which is their upgrade LQ. But we discovered (after unhooking then later plugging back in and pulling off the plug) (told you bad for the plug LOL ) that the dummy that wired the trailer did not use the universal color code for wiring. We had to figure out which color worked what. Getting the 12 V circuit and trailer light circuit together is what I was refering to. I figured it could be accomplished somewhere around the neck where the batteries and light cord were. I think I understand what Gard means now. A switch will connect the two and I can use either trailer battery or truck battery for auxilliary lights. Thank you for the comments.
Posted 2010-01-21 2:41 PM (#115559 - in reply to #115539) Subject: RE: light wiring issue
Expert
Posts: 1205 Location: Arkansas
first off, y'all don't laugh. I had this issue, so I mounted a female trailer plug in my trailers battery box (which is under the overhang of the goosenseck), and ran a wire from the battery to the center post of my just mounted trailer receptacle. When I unplug from the truck, I am already right there, so just plug into that receptacle and have the horse compartment, manger area, and tack room with power to run their lights. Simple, works, and looks neat enough.
light wiring issue
