Posted 2010-03-24 5:57 AM (#117964) Subject: Featherlite rivet question
Member
Posts: 7
Hello, I have a 1990 Featherlite 3 horse slant load stock trailer. In overall good shape. I have a couple of rivets that have broken on the rear roof edge and one one the escape door.
These are blind rivets where you cannot see the inside fastening. I'm not a rivet knowledgeable person. So can I drill these out and replace them? Is there a rivet gun I can buy to do blind rivets like this?
Posted 2010-03-29 1:35 PM (#118146 - in reply to #117964) Subject: RE: Featherlite rivet question
Veteran
Posts: 229
terrygar, me personally, I'd swing by a shop and have it done. Let them drill the rivets out and replace with new rivets. I think that it would be a cheaper route than a gun. Also, I have found that riveting, although it seems simple, does require some learning curve to do a good job. I would think that Cherry Max rivets would be best if you are aluminum. If they are a good shop and do aluminum, they should know what these are. Also, hold off until Gard supplies some input on this. He is aircraft and can either confirm the Cherry Maxes or suggest the appropriate rivet. Gard will ask, are you aluminum or steel on your trailer?
Posted 2010-04-01 11:51 AM (#118332 - in reply to #117964) Subject: RE: Featherlite rivet question
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
There are many types and manufacturers of blind rivets. Some are light construction ( pop type) others are structural with locking mandrels. I would think that a rivet used on the edge of a roofing sheet, would use a closed head rivet similar to those used in marine applications. By having the mandrel enclosed within the head, water cannot wick through it as with an open design.
There are different mandrel and rivet diameters. The grip lengths are crucial to know, as the skin thickness added to the support structure's thickness, will determine the proper rivet length. The lighter rivets can sometimes be pulled using a good grade of pop rivet gun with the various diameter inserts. The structural rivets used by Huck for instance, are pulled with a pneumatic/hydraulic gun costing several thousand of dollars. I have a Taiwan knock off that still cost a few hundred.
The rivets are relatively easy to change if you want to try them yourself. The head is drilled off, being careful not to score the outer sheet metal. If the broken end of the mandrel interferes with the drill bit, first punch it through the rivet with a pin punch. If it is a closed rivet head design, you should still be able to drive it inside enough to drill the rivet head. Once the head is removed, a pin punch and hammer will drive the rivet body through the hole. Do not drill the rivet while it is in the hole, as this will create an oversized hole, too large for the standard rivet size to again work.
Once again, you'll need to know the appropriate length and style for the new rivet. A dealer should be able to furnish the appropriate replacement. Install it, pull and break the mandrel with the tool and you're set.
A mechanic with the right tools can do the job in a few minutes. I don't think the area you spoke about involves structural rivets, and could be repaired with common types. A decent mechanical gun costs ~$20, a buck will buy several rivets, an electric drill and bit index will complete the job.
Featherlite rivet question
