First, I am a woman and know nothing about a LQ, nor do I have a competent place close to me that services them.  Having said that, can anyone give me a head start as to what might cause the water in my hose, which is connected from the city water to my trailer, to become scalding hot?  This last trip, when I hooked up to the city water, I later noticed the hose itself was extremely hot.  And, when I disconnected the hose from my trailer, it came gushing out of the trailer like a pump inside is pushing it out; and its hot, hot, hot.  Everything on the inside appears to be working correctly.

Seeing you are just south of me, I would say it is from setting in the sun!  Ours does this and we have to let the water run for a few before using it.

Check around Austin, there is a few LARGE RV dealerships and service centers around there.

It was at night.  Rains were in the area and temps were cooler than normal on Saturday.  Also, I've never had the water come back out of the trailer like it was being pumped.  It wasn't just dribbling out.  It was coming out horizontal.

I did have the water heater on.

There are two valves that might be inspected, which can cause your problem. One is a check valve that is usually installed on the inlet line from the city water to your cold water system line. If this fails, the water will exit from the interior to the exterior, when the exterior pressure is less than the interior pressure.

The second valve is a Temperature and Pressure relief valve that is installed on your hot water heater. It has a drain that dumps water out of your system when it becomes too hot, or there is too much water pressure in your system. If this fails closed, the interior pressure will increase as the temperature rises.

There is a handle on the top of it. By pulling it open, you can activate the valve which may well never have been moved, and may be stuck closed. You should immediately see water escaping from an orifice underneath the valve body when your system is pressurised. If this fails, and the inlet check valve doesn't seat, it will force water out of the inlet fitting.

Many heater thermostats are often set at less than 130 degrees, to limit any skin burns upon direct contact with hot water. If the thermostat becomes faulty, this can also cause an excessive temperature increase, which will result in increased system pressure and the problem previously noted.

Another long shot is your water pump. It has an internal check valve. If this were to leak, pressurised hot water could back feed through the pump into your cold water source. That also could possibly be a cause of the symptoms you describe. However, because of the smaller volume allowed by the interior passages of the pump, you would not experience a large rushing of water from your exterior fitting if this valve fails.

Gard