Posted 2009-03-19 8:34 PM (#101784) Subject: Door Leak
Veteran
Posts: 136 Location: Alabama
The entrance door into my DR/LQ is leaking at the top. It's been a very small leak for almost two years now and wasn't a problem when I only used the DR as a tack area but now that I'm working on my DR to LQ conversion, it's a problem. It is a 2002 steel trailer with a regular horse trailer tack room door (not a camper door). I first replaced the original drip rail with one that is a little deeper thinking that would solve the leak problem, but it did not help. The door has the original weather stripping along it and as best I can tell, the top of the door just doesn't meet the trailer as snug as the rest of the door so therefore, it leaks in spite of the drip rail and weather stripping being there. The weather stripping at the top is not smashed down like it is worn out or anything but at other parts of the door, you can tell where the stripping is smashed down a little because it's meeting the trailer tightly.
Unless someone here has a better idea, I guess my next step is to replace the weather stripping around the door with some that is thicker. Should I put the thicker weather stripping around the entire door or just the top section? The original stripping is one continuous piece and meets at the middle of the bottom of the door. Although putting thicker weather stripping at the top may help the leak, my concern is that putting thicker weather stripping all around the door will cause the door to not shut properly at the other areas of the door that currently do shut snuggly. But if I just run the thicker weather stripping along the top of the door, will it then just leak at the small section where the old and new stripping meet? Gosh, so many questions and so few answers!!! If anyone has any suggestions on how to fix the leak or what type of weather stripping to use or how to apply it, I would greatly appreciate any help. Obviously, all LQ work has stopped until I get this leak fixed.
Posted 2009-03-19 9:53 PM (#101791 - in reply to #101784) Subject: RE: Door Leak
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Many times a metal door can be sprung to better fit the frame. This is a common practice in auto body shops, when replacement doors are installed.
If the top of the door is bent out a bit and not sealing, you can try this repair. You will need a small length of lumber and your strongest best friend. Open the door, and insert the board between the bottom of the door and the door frame. Have the strong person push on the top of the door, flexing it to the closed position.
Push several times, pull the board, and try closing the door. If it's better, you're set. If it isn't, place a thicker board on the jamb and repeat the process. Usually it just takes a little persuasion to make it fair into the frame.
If this doesn't work, the door can be removed and the entire top edge can be flexed by placing the door on the ground, blocking the middle and applying weight by standing on the top, while the bottom is held in place.
If your door has an adjustable striker plate, you can shift it inward, which would pull the door tighter into the frame and weather seal when it's latched. Your door latch may also be adjustable by using washers or shims.
Posted 2009-03-20 9:01 PM (#101849 - in reply to #101784) Subject: RE: Door Leak
Expert
Posts: 2953 Location: North Carolina
Since you replaced the drip rail... Did you seal between the trailer body and the drip rail ? Did you flare the ends out ? Water will run back under the ends of the drip rail, especially when the trailer is not level. You'll want to guide the water off the ends of the drip rail past the top of the door and its opening.
Run a garden hose over the roof to test your work. You might be surprized about how the water is getting in.
Posted 2009-03-22 2:16 AM (#101893 - in reply to #101791) Subject: RE: Door Leak
Veteran
Posts: 136 Location: Alabama
Yes, I resealed between the trailer body and drip rail. But what do you mean about "flaring the ends out"?
I've done the water hose thing and it helped find the leaks. Today, I did what Gard suggested on pushing the top of the door in and it seemed to work. However, I had already pulled off the weather stripping at that time so the real test will come when I put on new weather stripping and then run the water over the roof. I plan on doing that tomorrow and will report back here about how it goes. Thanks!
Posted 2009-03-27 10:57 PM (#102279 - in reply to #101893) Subject: RE: Door Leak
Expert
Posts: 2953 Location: North Carolina
Originally written by Rose66 on 2009-03-22 11:16 PM
Yes, I resealed between the trailer body and drip rail. But what do you mean about "flaring the ends out"?
I had a problem of the water flowing from the end of the drip rail and into the doorway. By providing a "flare" or spout the water is launched away from the opening. I simply cut a part of the drip rail and bent it down. For added measure, a dam of caulk makes sure the water flows down the flare.
Posted 2009-03-29 12:58 PM (#102357 - in reply to #101784) Subject: RE: Door Leak
Veteran
Posts: 136 Location: Alabama
My door leak is fixed!! I sprung the door a little like Gard suggested and then replaced all the weather stripping and that stopped the leak at the top of the door! BUT then I realized that the window on the door was also leaking. So I recaulked the entire window and whoopie!!! No more leaks!!! We had 4" of rain Friday night and even more rain all day yesterday and not one drip anywhere.
Thanks for the help. I'm off to continue my LQ conversion now.
Door Leak
