Has anyone ever resealed the roof on their trailer themselves?? I am trying to get brave enough to tackle it, but don't really know what I am getting into. I would appreciate any input! Thanx!
Posted 2009-03-14 10:05 AM (#101347 - in reply to #101334) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA
Many of us have. The first step is to remove as much of the old caulking as possible. Clean the area and install new urethane caulking, not silicone. You will need a putty knife, utility knife, caulking gun and caulking.
It's a simple DIY job, definitely not something of which to be anxious.
Posted 2009-03-15 4:18 PM (#101419 - in reply to #101347) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
Veteran
Posts: 136
Location: Alabama
Okay, I just found a small leak in one of the roof joints of my trailer. Therefore, I want to reseal all the roof joints. I know to use a urethane sealant. Which one of these would be best? Or is there another brand that is better and readily available at either Home Depot or Lowe's?
Posted 2009-03-15 9:33 PM (#101434 - in reply to #101423) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
Veteran
Posts: 136
Location: Alabama
Thanks Gard. Have you used either of these products on steel horse trailers? I ask because I don't see (at least on the 3m product) where it mentions being used on steel.
Posted 2009-03-15 10:29 PM (#101436 - in reply to #101434) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA
Yes it can be used on steel, but....... The steel has to be completely cleaned of any rust and a conversion product used, along with a proper application of a good primer. These steps are necessary on steel, regardless of the type of caulking you plan on applying.
Any caulking placed over a steel joint that will eventually rust, will fail. The caulking will protect the area it covers, but as oxidation seeps in from the outside areas, the metal under the caulking will be eventually affected. The mechanical bond will then fail. The 5200 has some of the highest bonding strength of most caulks, but it has to have a good surface to which it can adhere.
Posted 2009-03-16 9:39 AM (#101455 - in reply to #101436) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
Veteran
Posts: 136
Location: Alabama
Okay, forgive me for all these questions but this is something I've never messed with in my life.
First off what do you mean by a conversion product?
Second, regarding a good primer, do you mean a paint primer for the steel so it won't rust or do you mean an adhesive primer so the adhesive will stick better?
Posted 2009-03-16 9:53 AM (#101456 - in reply to #101334) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
New User
Posts: 3
Thanks for all the info. I would have had all theses same questions myself-just didn't know to ask them. I also have a steel trailer, so want to do it right-I have a small leak in the nose.
Posted 2009-03-16 10:08 AM (#101459 - in reply to #101334) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
New User
Posts: 3
Gard-thanks for additional info! Can the Ospho be used for a steel trailer w/ white "skin" exterior. I read the link you reccomended on Ospho and wasn't sure it would hurt the skin?
Posted 2009-03-16 10:56 AM (#101466 - in reply to #101459) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA
Ospho won't "hurt" the skin. By stopping any rust it will improve its longevity. On many painted steel surfaces, there will be small areas of oxidation wherever the paint's coating has been damaged or eroded. The Ospho will turn these areas black and then form a whitish primer.
To prevent this discolouration, it would be best not to allow the product to run into areas you don't wish to treat and paint. The Ospho has a watery consistency, and can be applied with a spray bottle, paint brush or even a rag. Repeatedly using small amounts or masking off unwanted areas, will prevent any needless transfer of material.
Posted 2009-03-19 8:40 PM (#101785 - in reply to #101334) Subject: RE: Sealing trailer roof
Veteran
Posts: 136
Location: Alabama
Just wanted to report on the one roof joint in my trailer that was leaking. I removed all the old caulk, cleaned the roof joint throughly, and re-sealed it with a polyurethane sealant, and it DOES NOT LEAK ANY MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm tickled pink with myself for doing the work and it being successful. It wasn't hard and didn't take that long either, so any women out there who are thinking of tackling this type of repair, go for it. I did it all by myself.
Now if I could just get my darn entrance door to quit leaking (see my new post), I'd be able to finish my LQ conversion.