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Confusing

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rps
Reg. May 2004
Posted 2005-04-13 1:28 PM (#23795)
Subject: Confusing


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Location: Dry Prong, LA

 Ok Here's one for ya. Ihave a 6yr old TWH mare that was broke in Tennessee with a Tom Thumb snaffle, I rode her in that for about 6 months and then started her in the Prelli system. She did great and I started riding her with the rope hackamore and she gaited well, flat walk, running walk,(which is all I want) and handled  like a lady on rides. Here recently she started to push through the hackamore and go into a pace so I put the bit back in and here is where it gets confusing- I can lay the bridle on her neck and ask for a faster gait with my seat and legs and she will gait untill I ask her to stop. Is it just the weight of the bit in her mouth that brings back the memory for her to gait or what? any opinions?

Thanks Rick

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Kellye
Reg. Jul 2004
Posted 2005-04-13 11:14 PM (#23814 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Location: Milton, Florida

First of all, a Tom Thumb is NOT a snaffle.  If a bit has shanks and a curb chain, it's a curb bit, not a snaffle.  A jointed mouthpiece is not what makes a snaffle a snaffle.  We've discussed this before and for those of us who hate a Tom Thumb bit, you know who you are and probably reacted to the first line of this post the same as I did!

My friend also has a TWH.  When she first got him, his gait was OK, but then she started the Parelli thing.  She also went to the rope halter and her horse lost his gait.  It turns out that many gaited horses NEED the proper bit in order to get a proper head-set.  It's the head-set that helps them to set themselves up for the gait.  Apparently, you can't get the right head-set with just a halter.

I'm not a fan of Parelli, and this is just another reason why.  Every horse, no matter what he says, does not go well in a halter.  Some do, some don't.  There's a long discussion about Parelli on this forum also. 

It sounds to me like your TWH is one of those who needs help to get the gait right.   They have bits made just for your breed of horse and they are designed to help them get the gait right.

 

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rps
Reg. May 2004
Posted 2005-04-14 8:59 AM (#23824 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Posts: 43
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Location: Dry Prong, LA
Kellye thanks for the opinion, thats why i posted this. I have only had horses for about 6 yrs and am still learning, I read every thing I can to learn more. I agree with you about the Tom Thumb I think it is to agressive a bit now that I have used it, that is one reason I went to the hackamore. I want the least agressive bit or whatever to get my horse to gait properly. I do not compete only trail ride. What bit would you recomend since it seems this horse needs to have a bit to gait  right? I know everyone has a bit they prefer. As far as Parelli goes his ideas helped me to understand the horse more, I don't agree with all of his training ideas, I want my horses to walk and do a comfortable running walk or single foot when asked, don't want them to  trot, lope or canter.
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huntseat
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2005-04-14 9:11 AM (#23825 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Tom Thumb is a snaffle, a shanked snaffle. Snaffle refers to the mouth piece. Like a mullen mouth isn't a snaffle just because it has rings on the sides, right? I use a variety of bits and my collection is over stocked. I have always been told the mouth piece defines the bit, then call it shanked.

Edited by huntseat 2005-04-14 2:38 PM
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gabz
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2005-04-14 2:03 PM (#23839 - in reply to #23825)
Subject: RE: Confusing



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huntseat. ... no - a snaffle is a bit that does NOT use any curb chain action and DOES NOT have leverage.

A jointed Kimberwicke is a curb bit - it uses a curb chain AND it works on leverage.

If you look at many speed and action bits, you will find many that combine a mullen shaped mouthpiece on a large diameter ring - but the ring is fixed to the purchase (the part that attaches to the headstall) - the mouthpiece can actual move around the cheek ring - but there is also a curb of some sort.

Many speed and action bits are combinations of gag, curb, and sometimes even a jointed mouthpiece.

The TWH bits I am aware of usually have long shanks (the part that falls below the mouth) with either a jointed or solid (mullen or ported) mouthpiece. The bottom of the shanks, when very long (more than 5 inches) will have a bar or stiff chain keeping them from spreading too widely.

A snaffle bit is one that has a jointed or solid mouthpiece and has contact with both reins and headstall on the same cheek piece / ring.  Sometimes a curb strap is used to simply prevent the bit from sliding through the horse's mouth.

A curb bit has shanks, where reins are attached, and the headstall is attached to a portion of the bit called the purchase. The mouthpiece has no direct contact with the reins.

There are of course mecates / bosals, hackamores, side pulls, pelhams, weymouths, etc.  which have their own use.

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rps
Reg. May 2004
Posted 2005-04-14 2:28 PM (#23842 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Location: Dry Prong, LA

Before a war on bits gets started, I posted this because I need some information. 1-- Horse will gait in a rope halter but not well.

2-- Horse gaits very well in a Tom Thumb bit (snaffle or not).

3 I don't particularly like this bit becaus of its nut cracker effect if you pull straight back on the reins (which I don't do). plus it is not very usuful in getting the horse to bend her head around for an emergency stop because of the swiveling action of the shanks.

4--- I probably need to use a bit to get her to gait properly

5-- What is in whoevers opinion the most HUMANE bit I could use to accomplish this.

I really do appreciate any and all opinions, My wife who  rides very little and myself are in our late 40's, my horses are very gentle and I do not want to cause any accidents by using the wrong equipment.

thanks

Rick 

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hav2ride
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2005-04-14 2:29 PM (#23843 - in reply to #23839)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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In my horse world, a Tom Thumb snaffle is just a snaffle bit with short shanks.  The length of the shanks makes it a Tom THumb.  There are also long shanked snaffles.  Both are used with curb straps.  I personally don't care for the Tom THumb because you need too much pull to get any reaction from the shank.  I think the snaffle versus non snaffle debate is a matter of horse worlds.  In the Quarter Horse world, it is a snaffle because of the type of mouthpiece.  Here's  more debate topics:  coronet band or coronary band and how about longe versus lunge!
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huntseat
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2005-04-14 2:36 PM (#23845 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Hav hit the nail on the head...it's a breed thing I guess. Now the long/lunge is an english/western thing! I straddle that "fence" very well thank you!
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MIfarmbabe
Reg. Oct 2003
Posted 2005-04-14 4:23 PM (#23850 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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It's amazing when the subject "Tom Thumb" comes up, watch out. Anyway, the best bit works best in the best hands.

On the subject of TWHs. My experience with them and I have owned several, is any snaffle, no shanks, just don't work well  with getting them to gait. Mine have always wanted to pace and lean into the bit. From what I have learned from TWH trainers is that walkers almost need that shanked action for them to hold a running walk. They need the poll and curb action. But remember if your horse is breaking into a pace he  probably is not balanced and is leaning on his forehand and on you, your hands. He needs to adjust his weight and balance to his back end and be lighter in the front. This takes time and with walking horses there is no rushing them. Some are more pacier than others. 

 Your horse is probably ready to get away from a snaffle mouthpiece and move into curbed, low port bit with shanks. A good bit to move into is a pinchless bit, IMO. Schneiders Saddlery(www.sstack.com) carries a pinchless bit called a Robart Pinchless bit. There are several to choose from there and are reasonable in price. I've seen them on Ebay as well.

Good luck with your glide ride! 

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rose
Reg. Feb 2004
Posted 2005-04-14 9:25 PM (#23870 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing




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Hi Rick:  please look at showstoppertack.com  or nationalbridle.com

we use the twh pleaure bit the most for trail riding, it has the mullen mouth and is a one piece bit with no moving parts.  use a curb chain adjusted loosely and you should be good to go.  Also, you might want to look at gaitsofgold.com

Good luck.....

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rps
Reg. May 2004
Posted 2005-04-14 9:31 PM (#23872 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Posts: 43
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Location: Dry Prong, LA
MIfarmbabe- thanks for your advice, I guess I opened a can o-worms by mentioning Tom Thumb. Any way without having to bankrupt myself by buying bits I have a friend that bought a box of bits at an auction and the is a couple of walking horse bits from national bridle shop so I think I'll try one just to see what happens. I try to be very particular about my hands so I don't put to much pressure. Again thanks, this is the type of info I was looking for.
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rps
Reg. May 2004
Posted 2005-04-14 9:35 PM (#23873 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Posts: 43
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Location: Dry Prong, LA
Thanks Rose, we rode today in a loose  o ring snaffle and she did ok except she still wants to push on that. oh well I'keep trying gently.
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2qh1jack
Reg. Feb 2005
Posted 2005-04-15 5:34 AM (#23880 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Posts: 15

rps,

If you liked doing the Parelli system with your horse, you might want to contact David Lichman (5 Star instructor) or Carol Coppinger (4 star instructor). Both are parelli instructors and both work with gaited horses using natural horsemanship. I'm presently working through level 2 of PNH and have met many people, who are also students with gaited horses. During the last clinic I attended, there were 3 students in the level 3 clinic, who could get their pasos and TWH into walking gaits AND lope/trot/gallop. It was a neat experience. David Lichman actually has a special training program for gaited horses, who use PNH. Carol's star horse is a TWH.

As for the hackamore not working, if you have been studying the PNH program, then you know that the hackamore is only a step to graduating to using the bit for refinement. In refinement is where you get to communicate to your horse through the bit. In level one, you begin with one rein riding, in level 2 you begin using the rope hackamore, and finally towards the later part of level 2 is when you introduce to bit. By the time you introduce the bit, the problems you are having with him pushing through the bit will be solved (in my opinion you can fix this problem on the ground-porcupine game in zone 1 is broke). A bit is only severe in the wrong hands, thus why Parelli wants us to develop soft hands and feel, before ever using a bit. Oh, almost forgot, the students I know who have gaited horses are able to use an O-ring snaffle bit and do well with it.

Go to www.parelli.com and you can get contact information for David Lichman or/and Carol Coppinger. They both do clinics all over the US and we're having a gaited horse/PNH clinic in our area this fall with David.
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Kellye
Reg. Jul 2004
Posted 2005-04-15 9:19 PM (#23928 - in reply to #23825)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Posts: 40
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Location: Milton, Florida
Originally written by huntseat on 2005-04-14 9:11 AM

Like a mullen mouth isn't a snaffle just because it has rings on the sides, right?


WRONG....it is a Mullen Mouth Snaffle, BECAUSE it has rings on the side. The mouthpiece does not define the bit. You ride Huntseat, you should know better! Do you call a jointed Kimberwicke a snaffle just because of the mouthpiece? NO. Bahhh humbug....

BACK TO THE ORIGINAL POST. Sounds like you're on the right track with the Walking Horse Bit. Good luck smoothing out those gaits.

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2qh1jack
Reg. Feb 2005
Posted 2005-04-16 5:54 AM (#23934 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Posts: 15

I think you are doing a wise thing by using the o-ring snaffle, since you want to use the least harsh bit. You are right about not being able to do lateral flexion with a shanked bit (tom thumb). That's why shanked bits are not used until you are either a refined horse and horseman. Tom Thumb and twisted wire smaffles are torture bits that I would advise to be thrown in the garbage. Because of the broken mouth piece and shank, it is more severe than a curb. What I did to teach my horse to not push through the bit is first get lateral flexion, try practicing this on the ground first from each side. Once you can get positive reflex from each side, then try from the saddle/bareback. Make sure you release pressure as soon as you get the slightest try. Run your hand down the rein and simply close one finger at a time. A rule I live by: if I can't lightly bend my horse from a stand still, I'm not going to walk. If I can bend my horse to a stop at a walk, then try trotting. If I can bend my horse to a controlled and light stop from a trot, then I'll canter/lope. If you are finding yourself having to use the bit to stop (shanked bit-tom thumb), then you are making his/her mouth tough. Over time your going to find yourself having to resort to a bigger bit, plus (in my opinion) your are ruining your relationship. Bill Dorrance wrote an awesome book called, "Horsemanship Through Feel", which I think you would appreciate-best book ever written on light feel and humane.
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rose
Reg. Feb 2004
Posted 2005-04-16 9:20 AM (#23935 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing




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  Rick:  New (to me) book,  "Lessons with Lendon"

I am really enjoying this book and it has a lot of good, solid, basic info......    Please remember that sometimes you can confuse a horse who is used to a certain type of bit....  Personally I do not believe the snaffle is the goal;  my goal is to exchange info with my horse in a way that we both understand and are least stressed by.   Good riding and happy trails. 

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lively
Reg. Mar 2005
Posted 2005-04-26 12:10 PM (#24333 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Ok first of all i think you are doin well by askin for advice. One of the most important things is that you find a bit both you and your horse are comfortable with. I wish i could give you some exact advice on this but i am not very familiar with the TWH's . Also, and this is off the subject a bit, this person asked for advice not an all out war as to what to call such and such bit or anything else. Yes he asked opionons but i do believe what he wanted was an opionon as to what would help him not as to how harsh a tom thumb is which is only as harsh as the hands using it. I'm not a fan of it but in the right hand it can be used in a way that does not cause pain. We all have personal opinions as to what bit is more harsh. Some say that a curb is awful some say snaffles are ...ONCE again..the bit is only as harsh as the hands. A snaffle ( and yes i do know what one is for the record) can be brutal to the sides of a horses mouth in the wrong hands just as much as a curb. Long shank, short shank ,no shank... they all have the same potentiential for disaster or greatness in accordance to the horse and rider.Point is he asked for opionons as to a good bit for a gaited horse. Please keep to the point for him so he can get your help. Now i have said that and its off the subject but i just wanted to direct things back to what he asked. Thank you all and have a nice day.
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rps
Reg. May 2004
Posted 2005-04-26 12:53 PM (#24337 - in reply to #23795)
Subject: RE: Confusing


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Posts: 43
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Location: Dry Prong, LA

I would like to thank everyone for their replies and opions, to learn one must take in and filter out information. being almoooooosttt 50, some time it takes me a while. Any way acouple of years ago I bought a Mikmar Combo bit designed by Frank Evans, used it a couple of times and liked it pretty well (you don't have to use much pressure with it). so as I have been working through this  problem the last couple of weeks-- my horses stop when you relax and have very good lateral flexion to both sides(I do do a lot of ground work), they can side oass fairly well and all that. I came up with a brainstorm--- I put the Mikmar bit on and the hack over top of it, started at the flat walk with the hack asked for a little faster gait and when the nose came up and she started to pace I used the Mikmar (which applies pressure to the poll, nose, chin, and bars all at the same time) to get her nose down some and she went into a real good flat walk, we worked onthis for about a hour a day for three days , she will now runwalk in the hack but still tends to want to pace, so I  did some research and it seems as I think someone said that Walkers sometimes need the bit to balance themselves. Sorry this is so long. So I think that I will probably use an  o-ring snaffle and teach them that its only to help them gait.

Thanks Everyone

Rick

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