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TIPS WANTED! 2016 3/4 Ton 6.7 diesel pulling 23ft 3 horse 8’LQ

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kesper16
Reg. Mar 2019
Posted 2019-03-22 7:46 AM (#172273)
Subject: TIPS WANTED! 2016 3/4 Ton 6.7 diesel pulling 23ft 3 horse 8’LQ


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Posts: 3

Hey All! Questions and recommendations! I just bought a 2004 sundowner steel frame, alum everything else with 8ft living quarters. I have a 2016 3/4 Ton F-250. I figured staying under 4 horses and under 10ft LQ would be a safe bet but I just want feedback from others.

When I hook up it def weights my truck bed down more than a 4 horse dressing room only trailer i used to pull. Should I get airbags?

My truck weighs around 6400lbs (it’s an xl supercab) and my truck GVWR is 10,000lbs I believe but I’m not 100% on that.

I was told my trailer is 8100lbs empty. My horses are about 1000lbs each. No hay rack or super heavy loads or accessories. My towing capacity is 16,600lbs.

I’d like feedback from someone who knows their trucks and trailer. I don’t think I can upgrade trucks until next summer so this is what I’m working with for the next year!
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ThreeCW
Reg. Apr 2014
Posted 2019-03-22 11:43 AM (#172275 - in reply to #172273)
Subject: RE: TIPS WANTED! 2016 3/4 Ton 6.7 diesel pulling 23ft 3 horse 8’LQ


Veteran


Posts: 124
100
Location: Calgary, Canada
kesper16,

Gooseneck trailers typically transfer about 25 to 30% of their total weight back to the truck through the gooseneck hitch.

The total load on the truck then becomes the Base Curb Weight + Gooseneck Hitch Load + All other loads within the truck (passengers and other cargo).

The only accurate way to determine your truck loading is to take it over a scale. With the trailer connected, individually weight the front truck axle, rear truck axle and the combined trailer axles. Disconnect the trailer and individually weight the front truck axle and the rear truck axle again. With the above mentioned weights, you will be able to determine the loading on both your truck and trailer.

The base curb wight of your 2016 F250 Supercab 6.7L diesel is between 6907 to 7461 pounds (depending on if it is a 4x2, 4x4, short box or long box). See page 76 for the following link for more information:
https://madocumentupload.marketingassociates.com/api/Document/GetFil...

You can also get more information on your truck towing ratings here:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/F...

My feedback to your request is as follows:

If you add perhaps 750 lbs for passengers and truck cargo, 30% of your 8100 lb EMPTY trailer weight to your gooseneck (2430 lbs of gooseneck weight) and your truck curb weight of 7461 lbs ("assuming" you have a 4x4 long box), then your total loaded truck weight will be 750 + 2430 + 7461 = 10,641 lbs ... which puts you overloaded on your truck 10,000 lb GVWR. Add two or three horses, tack, camping gear, etc and the total load on your truck will likely increase even more.

Also have a look at this previous discussion held on HTW regarding the same subject:
https://horsetrailerworld.com/forum/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=20367

I suspect that with the trailer loaded, your will truck will become significantly overloaded based on it's GVWR. Air bags will help to level the truck and make it ride better but will NOT change the load on the truck.

My numbers are theoretical based on the information you provided. The best thing for you to do is hit the weigh scale and determine your actual numbers. It may be best to do it with the trailer empty first to give you a base line. If those weights are acceptable to you, then you will want to repeat the weigh scale exercise with a fully loaded trailer.

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PDGx
Reg. Jul 2011
Posted 2019-03-24 12:40 PM (#172277 - in reply to #172273)
Subject: RE: TIPS WANTED! 2016 3/4 Ton 6.7 diesel pulling 23ft 3 horse 8’LQ



Veteran


Posts: 175
100252525
Location: Florida
First as stated above, get some actual weights.
You want at least 3 - pickup, total, and trailer. If the scale will permit you the time, after getting the trailer weight, disconnect the trailer from the truck, and get the total trailer weight (with the jacks also on the scale).
This will give you what you need.
Then look up your truck specs for (assuming gooseneck) towing capacity.
If you are concerned about the rear of the truck dropping when connected, keep in mind Ford leaves about a 2-3” gap between the rear overload springs and the frame. This is for a smoother ride when empty (where most people operate). As you load the truck, this gap is eliminated right away, and allows the truck to settle, usually below level. You can make up for this with airbags, or you can install rubber spacer blocks to eliminate this gap from the start (but will make for a harder ride when empty).
I have done it both ways - our F250 has airbags as it is occasionally used for towing, and our F350 has the rubber blocks, as it usually HAS a trailer attached.
With that 6.7 diesel you will have no problem pulling that load.
But -after you have determined all your weights as safe, you want to make sure you can control it when stopping. Your truck should have a Turbo Brake button on the dash just to the the right of the steering wheel, and a Tow/Haul mode button on your trans lever. I suggest you always use the Turbo Brake when loaded, and use Tow/Haul as needed. Also set your electric Brake controller between 9.0-10 when loaded.
As a comparison, our Aluminum 4-horse LQ weighs 8040# empty. Our F250 (gas) can handle it with 2 horses no problem unless you want to do some mountain climbing (think Mont Eagle) - then it lacks power. Our F350 (6.7 diesel) doesn’t know the loaded horse trailer is there. I pull close to max GCWR with the F350 with a flatbed frequently.

So - get some actual weights - Truck stop, garbage dump, grain elevator, or gravel pits will usually weight for you, with a minimal fee if you need a print out.
Level your truck if needed or desired.
Set your truck options to assist with control and braking.
Take a couple trips - empty, 2 horse, 3 horse and 4 horse to make sure you can control everything.
And load tour trailer properly, and to your advantage. Don’t start in stall 1 if you’re only taking 2 or three horses. Plan your center of horse weight just in front of the center of the rear axles.
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kesper16
Reg. Mar 2019
Posted 2019-03-25 8:15 PM (#172287 - in reply to #172273)
Subject: RE: TIPS WANTED! 2016 3/4 Ton 6.7 diesel pulling 23ft 3 horse 8’LQ


New User


Posts: 3

Thank you for the time you guys put into your responses! I made a mistake in my truck description, it’s a super crew not cab. I looked up the curb weight and it is just under 6400lbs. My bed is longer because I have the halfseat and doors in the back but I don’t have an extended bed. I can jacknife it and not even get close to windows.

How come my truck is rated to pull 16,600lbs with gooseneck but if you take 25% of 16,600 you’d be way over payload? I don’t get that.

I’d say with passengers and such (I’m a 120lb woman who really only travels with my dog and a girlfriend or two.) I’m loaded at 500 or 600 max and that’s with hay in my truck bed. So that leaves me about 3100lbs left of the 10. If my GVWR is 10000 and my trailer loaded to the max is 12,000, 25% of that is pretty much right there

I live in the mountains of CO and just pulled the trailer from New Mexico back home, 9 hrs and 4 of those hrs there were 2 horses in the back. I didn’t feel a difference with the added horses.

I thought maybe I’d need to set my trailer brakes higher but it was actually too much, my new trailer brakes were pulling me too much when I braked hard so I had to turn it down.

The truck bed sinks just below level. It’s not awful I just thought level was the desired way to have it.
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PDGx
Reg. Jul 2011
Posted 2019-03-26 7:01 AM (#172288 - in reply to #172273)
Subject: RE: TIPS WANTED! 2016 3/4 Ton 6.7 diesel pulling 23ft 3 horse 8’LQ



Veteran


Posts: 175
100252525
Location: Florida
Keep in mind, all of the numbers and calcs above are theoretical until you get some actual weights.
It looks to me that you will be close based on theoretical values, but it all depends on how you are loaded, and how much weight is transferred to your truck from the trailer.
Again, pulling it with that engine is not going to be a problem- it has HP and torque for much more. You just want to make sure your weight distribution and total weights keep you in control under all conditions and situations you get yourself into.
Get some actual weights. Find out how much weight is transferred to your truck.
Take 3 horses next time. Get some experience.
Change your brake setting for your load. If you have the integrated Ford brake controller, it will apply trailer brake based on your pedal pressure. But it if you stab the brakes, it will take over.
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ThreeCW
Reg. Apr 2014
Posted 2019-03-26 8:38 AM (#172289 - in reply to #172287)
Subject: RE: TIPS WANTED! 2016 3/4 Ton 6.7 diesel pulling 23ft 3 horse 8’LQ


Veteran


Posts: 124
100
Location: Calgary, Canada
kesper16 - 2019-03-25 8:15 PM
How come my truck is rated to pull 16,600lbs with gooseneck but if you take 25% of 16,600 you’d be way over payload? I don’t get that.


Trailer Towing Rating can be a very misleading number for a gooseneck horse trailer which normally has a heavy pin weight. In this case, Truck GVWR often becomes your limiting factor.

Like a chain, trailer towing is only as strong as the weakest link and in this case your truck GVWR is the weak link of a number of factors.

Have a look at the HTW link that I referred you to in my previous post for a more detailed explanation.
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