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Member
Posts: 36
| This may sound like a dumb question but do you insulate the nose area under where your bed would go. If so what do you recover it with? |
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 Expert
Posts: 1283
 
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey | I have only insulated one trailer under the bed,........ it was more of a can you do it idea, it worked but I wouldn't recomend it. Alot of trailers I see have a substance under there that is called juting(sp?) in the automotive world, you will find it under your carpet in your car. I'm sure it has some insulating factor, but I like it cause it's easy on my knees. |
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Veteran
Posts: 216
Location: Chillicothe, Ohio | I suppose there are different ways to do it, heres what I did. I tore up the original indoor/outdoor carpet that was glued directly to the aluminum. I then cut a sheet of 1" blue foamboard (the rigid stuff) available at most lumber yards to fit the floor of the goosneck. I taped the seams and you could glue this to the aluminum if you wanted (use the special constuction adhesive for foamboard available at your lumber yard). I then cut 1/2 plywood or OSB to fit tight against the walls and up to the edge of the lq main area. I glued my plywood to the foamboard, covered the seam with a piece of duct tape then glued carpet to the plywood. Then applied my wall covering( paneling) and put a piece of 1/4 round trim at the bottom of the wall to make it look nice. At the entrance, you can install a trim board to cover the end that would be showing. This is easy and you only loose about 1-1/2 inch of headroom in your gooseneck. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
 
Location: western PA | An other way that is an easy alternative is to remove the present coating, install a plastic vapor barrier and lay down high density carpet padding. 8 oz or even the 10 oz acts as a good insulator and padding if you reinstall carpeting. It is easy to add a few layers for more protection and comfort. The plastic is necessary to prevent the condensating vapor from being absorbed into the foam padding. This installation doesn't offer as much insulating qualities as the rigid foam previously discussed, but it does work well. Remnant padding is often available at carpet stores or new by the yard at the big box stores. Gard |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 714
Location: Minnesota | I used the spray foam insulation under the goose. The expanding type so that it would fill a the corners. Then I attached aluminum to the cross braces with self tapping screws. Keeps the floor nice and tasty when it gets cold. |
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 Charter Member
Posts: 251
Location: Holland, Tx | I did mine last week. I used the same foam insulation as I did on the walls, cut it to fit in the nose, then cut OSB to fit in as well. Attached it to the floor with self tapping screws, screwed all the way through the OSB, insulation and into the frame. |
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 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385
Location: washington | I put 1/2" insulation down on the steel gooseneck deck, sealed the edges with aluminum tape, then 1/4" plywood, then 1/4" carpet padding and last, the carpet. I did the same thing with the floor, but used 1/2" plywood over the insulation. It was very warm in that trailer and I had no real heater - only used a little buddy heater for about 10 minutes before bed and again in the morning. |
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Member
Posts: 36
| Thanks for everyones help!! |
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insulating
