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Member
Posts: 12
Location: NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL | Like most others on here I am putting in a LQ in my trailer. Everything is going fine...but I am finding myself confused about a few things. Ok...alot of things but I will start off with one. My electrician does not know much about 12v and said that if we could get away without having it, it would keep the cost way down and make things easier. With that in mind I plan on keeping the two 12v lights that are already in the dressing room and having everything else 110. Other then being able to run lights etc. at shows without having to crank up a generator or hooking up to shore power is there any reason to have 12v lighting? |
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 Charter Member
Posts: 251
 
Location: Holland, Tx | The lights that are already in their are probably running off your truck's battery. If you accidentally leave them on sometime, you are running a risk of draining your truck battery and being stuck!!! |
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 Expert
Posts: 1283
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey | The reason is dirived from the RV industry I would supose, Campers/LQ's are suposed to be self contained. So you can go into the camper/lq turn on your lights and take a hot shower without being "hooked up" to anything. To do this you have to have 12volt lights(battery), LPG hot water heater, and a fresh water tank/12volt pump. Campers/LQ's have always been built this way, it's your trailer and if you don't find the convienence in this setup valueable, then you can divert from it as you see fit. When you go to sell it, if it's not done normally, then you will have to overcome those issues with potential buyers. |
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Veteran
Posts: 171
Location: Henderson, TN 38340 | If you electrician does not know about 12V power, I would not have them put in my door bell. If you send me your email, and if you have powerpoint on your computer, I can send you my write up which may help. Turfa |
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Regular
Posts: 74
Location: IN | Turfa's right. My friend had an electrician friend put in her electric, and when she went to have some upgrades done to her Weekender package at an RV place, the RV electrician was astonished that she hadn't burned out her AC, and that she was at a high risk for a fire. I was going to have an electrician friend do my trailer, but I've since reconsidered, and will have it done right with someone who knows 12V/110 and how they work together in a trailer. You can cut corners elsewhere, but don't compromise on the electric setup. Stay safe!!! |
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Veteran
Posts: 140
Location: NM | Originally written by Turfa on 2008-02-21 4:36 PM If you electrician does not know about 12V power, I would not have them put in my door bell. If you send me your email, and if you have powerpoint on your computer, I can send you my write up which may help. Turfa Hi Turfa - Can you send me your write up? I'm at the point where I need to work on the electrics. Thanks! -- Thanks again Turfa:)
Edited by Bells 2008-02-22 1:47 PM
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Member
Posts: 12
Location: NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL | Thanks for the info...we are short on professionals here in my area but im still looking for someone i trust!! O.K...next ?...what to do with the walls!!! I dont want wood paneling! I would like the "wall paper" looking stuff but everything I find says not to put it directly to studs and also says not for use in mobile homes because of formeldehyde (sp?)! Any thoughts..I thought of doing the vinyl but I have no idea what to put it on and what to put it on with. Anyone got pics of their walls that are not wood paneling? |
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Expert
Posts: 1283
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey | I use 1/2" plywoo from Home Depot it is very very smooth, if you line the walls with it then fill the seams with spackling, you can then wallpaper just like a house. 
The wall vinyl or soft walls is done the same way, I just use ac plywood because it doesn't need to be as smooth. 
Good luck on your trailer. |
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New User
Posts: 2
Location: Cloverdale, IN | Hello, On the subject of electric wiring in LQ.....I am getting ready to have a contractor out to look at mine for an estimate. This is my first gooseneck, so bear with me. There are two interior lights right now that run off of the battery that are from the factory. So, if I want to unhook and plug into a show facility's electric, do I need additional wiring and lights on the inside and what is exactly 12V/110? Can someone just give me a quick wiring lesson 101? |
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Veteran
Posts: 171
Location: Henderson, TN 38340 | Mickey I am assuming that the battery that you lights are run from, is in the tow vehicle. If this is the case you can add a battery to the trailer which will run those lights. This battery may run down depending on how much you use it. If you want to run those lights from the "show's" power, you will need a power converter (not Inverter). This will change the voltage to 12 Volts from 110 Volts. Electric 101- House current is 110 Volts (and 220 volts for things like an electric stove, water heater). The lights in trailers are 12 Volt, which is the same as a truck or car battery. Batteries come in all different voltages, like 1 1/2 volts in a standard flashlight battery or a 9 Volt battery in your smoke detector. I hope this helps Turfa |
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New User
Posts: 4
Location: Des Moines,N.M. 88418 | I was the same way, confused, but I Goggled bus conversions and came up with quite a few sites that helped answer some of my misconceptions.Good luck and hope that may help. |
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Member
Posts: 19
| At our Lowe's they have the kitchen countertop...topping I guess it is. It comes in sheets for someone who is making their own counters. The sheets are about 1/8" thick and have the wallpaper "swirly" look to them. They seem like they would be very durable and washable. I am considering glueing them to 1/4" plywood. Couldn't find them online, but they were in the store. |
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.jpg) Expert
Posts: 2828
 
Location: Southern New Mexico | Bells, about where in NM are you? I know a Bells on another forum and she has horses, she also owns a feed store. It's not you is it? |
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Charter Member
Posts: 251
Location: Holland, Tx | Turfa- I sent you a PM with my email address requesting your write up you mentioned above. I don't know if my email filters blocked it or if you haven't rec'd my PM or sent the info, but I would greatly appreciate it. |
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Member
Posts: 12
Location: NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL | Thanks for the pictures of the walls / wall paper. They look great...(the walls that is!) Back to electric stuff... I am attempting to keep cost down as much as possible for right now. Can I install the 12v lighting etc... and run it off of "shore power" without having the batteries. Then when the money builds back up add the batteries etc. I saw the post about the converter thing, but am still a bit confused. If this is possible..what would be the easiest way to have the stuff wired so that we can add batteries? Also...I was thinking of adding propane at a later date as well. Should the lines be ran now, before the walls are up, or can that be added later without alot of heacache? |
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Veteran
Posts: 140
Location: NM | "Bells, about where in NM are you? I know a Bells on another forum and she has horses, she also owns a feed store. It's not you is it?" Las Cruces. I don't own a feed store. I think I may know you - do you teach? |
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Expert
Posts: 1283
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey | Originally written by FL_BWAB on 2008-02-25 8:19 AM Thanks for the pictures of the walls / wall paper. They look great...(the walls that is!) Back to electric stuff... I am attempting to keep cost down as much as possible for right now. Can I install the 12v lighting etc... and run it off of "shore power" without having the batteries. Then when the money builds back up add the batteries etc. I saw the post about the converter thing, but am still a bit confused. If this is possible..what would be the easiest way to have the stuff wired so that we can add batteries? Also...I was thinking of adding propane at a later date as well. Should the lines be ran now, before the walls are up, or can that be added later without alot of heacache? Yes you can run your trailer off of the converter, I don't recomend it but it can be done. Just make sure you buy a large enough converter to run all your 12 volt stuff, if you don't it will trip until your demand is lower. Also it will not work unless it is plugged in to shore power. As far as the propane goes it can be added later as the line(black iron pipe) will run under your trailer to the point where it will enter through the floor. |
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Member
Posts: 12
Location: NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL | Originally written by HWBar on 2008-02-25 12:56 PM Originally written by FL_BWAB on 2008-02-25 8:19 AM Thanks for the pictures of the walls / wall paper. They look great...(the walls that is!) Back to electric stuff... I am attempting to keep cost down as much as possible for right now. Can I install the 12v lighting etc... and run it off of "shore power" without having the batteries. Then when the money builds back up add the batteries etc. I saw the post about the converter thing, but am still a bit confused. If this is possible..what would be the easiest way to have the stuff wired so that we can add batteries? Also...I was thinking of adding propane at a later date as well. Should the lines be ran now, before the walls are up, or can that be added later without alot of heacache? Yes you can run your trailer off of the converter, I don't recomend it but it can be done. Just make sure you buy a large enough converter to run all your 12 volt stuff, if you don't it will trip until your demand is lower. Also it will not work unless it is plugged in to shore power. As far as the propane goes it can be added later as the line(black iron pipe) will run under your trailer to the point where it will enter through the floor. I knew it could not be that easy...lol! Im glad to hear about the propane though. I did not want to deal with that too at this point. Thanks again for the information!!!! My head is spinning trying to plan and process all of the things that need to be done. I am probably making this harder then it really is though. |
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Expert
Posts: 1283
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey | Just think ahead, and run any wires you think you are going to need, label them with masking tape on both ends, that way when you get back to them you will know what is going where. |
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New User
Posts: 2
| IN REGARDS TO THE ELECTRICAL. A 12V/110V SYSTEM ADDS A LITTLE EXPENCE BECAUSE YOU WILL NEED A CONVERTER,NOT INVERTER. HOWEVER IN THE LONG RUN IT WILL BE MONEY WELL SPENT.I'VE BUILT TRAILERS BOTH WAYS OVER TIME AND RESELL IS AN ISSUE ON AN ALL 110V SYSTEM. |
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New User
Posts: 2
| on the propane issue,you can run the lines later. they should not go in any walls because it will be to hard to find leaks. they should be run under the trailer and brought up through the floor direct to each appliance. propane is heaver than air and will settle in low areas. |
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New User
Posts: 3
Location: Washington, State | The wallpaper looks great! Do you attack the plywood directly to th emetal studs in the trailer or did you add furring strips? Thanks |
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Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico | "Bells, about where in NM are you? I know a Bells on another forum and she has horses, she also owns a feed store. It's not you is it?" Las Cruces. I don't own a feed store. I think I may know you - do you teach? I don't know how I missed this post. I'm in Deming and I'm not a teacher. But I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express...... about 10yrs ago. |
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Veteran
Posts: 140
Location: NM | Well Terri - You aren't who I thought you might be and I'm not who you thought I might be! Rose |
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New User
Posts: 2
Location: charlie lake | do you still have that wiring help available? |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448
Location: Los Angeles, Ca. | Google RV Electrical Systems....many articles as well as YouTube videos explaining all you need to know |
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HELP!!! with DIY living quarters
