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Location: georgia | My wife bought herself a second trailer this weekend. It is a 2 horse straight load *Bee* for short trips in tight spaces. It is steel and a 1998 model. The trailer is not a rust bucket but it does has some areas of very light rsurface rust. Mostly where 2 peices of steel meet in different directions. (corners, seams, etc.) I'm going to wire brush these areas down to the bare metal and repaint them with a good rust proof paint however I do have a question. Is there some other type of chemical that I can treat these areas with before painting that will help in stopping the rust process? It is really pretty nice and she paid $3,000 for it. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
  
Location: western PA | After you wire brush the rust, apply a rust converter (phosphoric acid) to the areas before you apply the primer. Wire brushing will not get rid of all the rust and this will be an easy way to stop what was not removed. There are many brands available at auto stores that sell automotive paint products. BOL Gard |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: MO | Gard - that sounds good. Have you ever thought of a spray on undercoating
as a base coat under the paint? |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | A good primer is necessary to use under the finish coating of paint. For small areas a spray can will work, make sure it is an oil base or polyurethane if used on steel. The metal should be clean and dry before any application of paint. BOL gard
Edited by gard 2008-02-12 9:31 AM
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Expert
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Location: western PA | Originally written by Cloud9 on 2008-02-11 9:16 AM
Gard - that sounds good. Have you ever thought of a spray on undercoating as a base coat under the paint? Sorry, I misunderstood your question with my last response. No, I would not use an undercoating as a primer base for a finish coat. Most undercoating materials do not dry hard and are soft to self heal when damaged by stones etc. In the North East it was a common practise to undercoat new cars. It was found that as it wore, it would trap water and salts against the metal, and instead of protecting the metal it was facilitating the destruction of the metal. Most of the undercoating dealers around here have gone out of business. Use an appropriate primer, or your work, the finish coat and your wallet will suffer. BOL gard |
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Regular
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Location: georgia | Thanks Gard. It seems as if applying anything to metal with the name of *acid* would produce negitave results. But then a black berry is red when it is green. MIke |
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Expert
Posts: 1205
Location: Danielsville Georgia | Lot of rustproofing primers out there.Do a WEB search.Lots of the stuff by various manufactures in the ship building industary. http://www.therustdoctor.com/ is just one of several. Another is http://www.por15.com/
Edited by hounddog 2008-02-12 6:22 AM
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Last fall we used a water based rust converter on the steel roof of our riding arena before the final coating was installed. It was a thick bodied product and worked well. It was available in 5 gal buckets and applied with a commercial high pressure sprayer. I would not use that particular product where a fine finish would be anticipated. The products that Houndog has referenced would be more apropos. Many car owners that are involved in restorations use the POR products with good results. Phosphoric acid is inexpensive and is readily available. One quart will do a large area. It can be applied with a paint brush and has the consistency of water. BOL gard |
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Veteran
Posts: 296
Location: Tennessee | Magnet Paints sells several rust stopper primers at good prices. Check out their "Rust Destroyer" primer.
http://www.magnetpaints.com/products.asp
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New User
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Location: alabama | hey dont worry about it if it's not pitting the steel yet just wire brush it the best you can go to your local automotive paint store get you some etching primer that you have to ad the activator to it goes through a heat when activated and actually kills the rust and bonds into the steel and will also work as a filler if it has started to pit the metal then you can sand with some 320 grit or 600 grit and paint those few spots.One thing to remember never get etching primer on paint or other type primer it will lift it off the metal.If it has rusted all the way through they make a material called metal to metal if you need i can explain how to use it. |
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Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Originally written by gard on 2008-02-11 12:03 PM Originally written by Cloud9 on 2008-02-11 9:16 AM
Gard - that sounds good. Have you ever thought of a spray on undercoating as a base coat under the paint? Sorry, I misunderstood your question with my last response. No, I would not use an undercoating as a primer base for a finish coat. Most undercoating materials do not dry hard and are soft to self heal when damaged by stones etc. In the North East it was a common practise to undercoat new cars. It was found that as it wore, it would trap water and salts against the metal, and instead of protecting the metal it was facilitating the destruction of the metal. Most of the undercoating dealers around here have gone out of business. Use an appropriate primer, or your work, the finish coat and your wallet will suffer. BOL gard Most of the undercoating businesses went out of business because of the change in the auto industry to ACTUALLY undercost the cars at the factory...that and the new paint processes...
Edited by PaulChristenson 2008-02-14 6:57 AM
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Originally written by PaulChristenson on 2008-02-14 7:56 AM Most of the undercoating businesses went out of business because of the change in the auto industry to ACTUALLY undercost the cars at the factory...that and the new paint processes... We have two newer GM cars and a Ford truck. None have any undercoating installed from the factory. The paint products are definately improved. Gard |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406
Location: Minneapolis, MN | I like the cold galvaninzing products...zinc rich primers in a spray can. The stuff is amazing. 'course you'll have to top coat with the color of your choice. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Works great on boat trailers |
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Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Treat your metal with this stuff and you are ready to paint ... http://www.shorechemical.com/Section%207%20Tech%20Sheets/naval_jelly.htm
Edited by PaulChristenson 2008-02-14 6:02 PM
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light rust
