Well snce I've got the tires/rims taken care of, I need input on the best quality/buy hitch. I would prefer one that can sit flush with the truck bed or easy to take out when not in use. Not sure it matters, but the truck the hitch is going in is a Chevy 2500HD short box, X-cab.

Looking for brands/types to stay away from also. Thanks!!

What about this one? Pros cons??  http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/

or this one

http://www.unagoose.com/index.htm

Hide-A-Goose

Head tested to 30,000 lbs. GTW, 7,500 lbs. vertical load Only 4" hole in truck bed for installation Ball is stored upside-down in hitch when not used Heavy duty handle uses positive locking to engage ball Comes with hitch head, 2-5/16" ball and safety chain brackets Easy to install Includes magnetic cover 63055 Rail kits average install time is less than 2-1/2 hours without any welding or bed removal Rails are rated to meet non-commercial tow ratings

All pictures are for reference only. This picture represents what that product may look like.

To quickly check if Hide-A-Goose is available for your vehicle, select your vehicle make from the list below.

http://www.cequentgroup.com/

Hitches are all about the same...these companies are all part of Cequent Group...

Cequent draws upon a 75-year old heritage of superior towing and trailer brands - Draw-Tite, Reese, Fulton, Wesbar, Bulldog, Crown Eclipse, Hidden Hitch, Bargman, ROLA and Tekonsha.

B&W would work fine. 

I currently have the B&W Turnover and it works great.

I had (from 2000 to 2006) in earlier trucks the Diamond Hitch  which was a same company that has been bought out by Blue Ox.  It worked great also. I assume it's still the same product just being sold by a bigger company that specializes in Trailer products.

http://www.blueox.us/Hitches/hitches.htm

Let me advise you from experience about the Turnover ball.

They work great as long as you DO NOT put any kind of lube on the part below the hitch ball itself.Keep the opening in the bed rinsed out well,too.We don't even keep ours in the truck bed when we aren't using it.This is true especially if you live on gravel roads,which we do,or travel on them on any kind of regular basis.

What did you like(or not) about one vs the other?

The B&W has a rod under the truck frame that you pull to release the ball.

The Diamond hitch just squeeze with your thumb the release and twist with an up and down motion.  You can take the ball out with out reaching under the bed.

Not a big deal either way. I just seem to forget to pull the latch before jumping up in the bed.

The Diamond Hitch was just a little less expensive at the time.

They both work fine and I wouldn't hesitate to use either.

We have used the "CE Brand" for many years with excellent service. The truck bed did not have to be cut up for the installation. With the ball removed the bed has no obstructions and except for a single 1 1/2" hole has no modifications. There are no linkages or mechanical issues to address . We are very satisfied.

Gard

Had a Valley brand hitch installed in my truck in 2004 when I bought my trailer.  It worked well for 2 years, but then the cable froze up and I could not turn the handle to release the ball.  We worked on it for a while and got it working again, but the following summer, it totally froze up and we couldn't get it fixed.  My dealer was good enough to order a new cable for me and install it for free, but I had to pay for the cable and shipping from Valley.  Valley would not stand behind their product. This particular hitch is no longer made, but they said "there is nothing wrong with it"...

Lucky me... I deal with a very reputable trailer service company/dealer.

Do you coat everything with it or just the ball? Do you have anyproblems with dirt/sand or gravel sticking to it? I live down a dirt/gravel road, so wanting to be prepared. Thanks

We've had both the turnover ball,and the Popup hitch.Apparently this is what happened: (what little I could get out of husband who was tired after working all day and feeding 5 horses and didn't really want to have to recall a bunch of details.)

We took it to our trailer guy for something,can't remember what,but,when he replaced the turnover ball,he greased the whole thing.Some gravel/grit/dust must have stuck to all of that,and,it caused it to be stuck in there upside down.I'm talking MUD on these roads,too,red clay,ect.So,we almost didn't get it back out.So thereafter,my husband only greases the ball itself,the clearance is so tight on it,that anything apparently will cause it to freeze up if dirt or rocks get stuck.Better yet,he just prefers to leave it out and rinse the opening well before we hitch up but that might not be practical for most folks that haul a lot more than we do.

I'd like to know about the stuff that Rentento uses,also.

 My hitch is the Draw-Tite Remove-A-Ball. Ya crawl up in the bed, pull a little lever beside the ball and lift it out of the socket. I use an old grocery store plastic bag to grab the ball and just leave it in the bag until I'm ready to reinstall. I use the "never seize" lubricant on the part of the ball that fits down into the hitch. I use a thin film and it lasts pretty much forever. Never had any problems pulling the ball out or putting it back in. I also wash or rinse the hole in the truck bed out if we have been hauling hay, shavings, dirt, etc. On the ball wear surface itself.....I use spray white lithium grease. When the trailer is unhitched, I just spray a shot up into the trailer hitch ball socket. Keep a can in the tool box in the truck. (doesn't appear to be as black and nasty as chassis lube/grease) "Spray white lithium grease", pick it up at Wal Mart for a couple bucks. You could use the spray white lithium grease on the part of the ball that fits into the truck bed. I use the never seize because I got never seize and use it on my rear hubcentric hubs on my GM dually to keep the rear rims from sticking to the hub (another story). The spray white grease is really handy, it don't juice all out in the tool box. It's in a spray rattle can like spray paint. Ya don't get it all over you (unless you want to) and it's a really good lubricant......And cause I said so!!    Here you go!!

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=37 

Now,say that again about the GM dually rims? If you don't mind,explain.So it won't happen here,you see.?

Do you use the never seize on the hidden part of the Turnover ball? I doubt I could hold a gun on husband to have him use anything after that experience but it's worth a try. Get that at AutoZone?

Depending on the vehicle, you have to be careful with your turnover ball and loading (or is that overloading) the bed...a Chevy 2500 will actually have the inverted ball threatening your drivetrain, IF you FULLY LOAD your bed......but as long as you are aware of it...you just put the ball in the cab for those occasions...Any other time, there is NO problem...

  CRG, The 2001 and later GM 2500HD and 3500 trucks have "hubcentric" wheels... Meaning that the rim sits on the center hub rather than using "acorn" lug nuts to center the wheel. If you run in much mud or salt the rims and hubs will corrode (rust together) and try to become as one! Imagine a flat beside the road, all jacked up, lug nuts off and the wheels and hub rusted together, having to beat them off with that sledge hammer! The film of "never seize" between the rims and hub will prevent this from happening.

Use the never seize on the part of the hitch ball that is hidden. Use the white spray lithium grease or regular chassis lube on the ball wear surface (the part that comes in contact with the trailer).

The "Auto Zone" may have what you're looking. The "Never Seize" comes in a plastic bottle with a small applicator brush made into the under side of the lid.

Check with your local "Napa", "CarQuest", etc.