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New User
Posts: 4
Location: uk | hi all, my daughters old trailer needs a new floor, the old one which is going soft has softwood planks going front to back with hardwood planks on top going crossways. does anyone have any recomendation as to what material is the best, and/or the strongest, longer lasting etc. I have plywood in mind myself, say two sheets 25mm thick !!!!! tim |
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Member
Posts: 8
| Are you talking in the horse area? I will not even pretend to be an expert in trailer floors but I do know this much. Plywood doesn't do well when it tends to get wet and especially if it stays wet. I think you would be replacing it again soon. One of the reasons for a plank floor from what I'm told is any moisture in the horse area can drain out and the boards will dry and deteriorate less. Plywood would not allow for the drainage. I would think that if you are staying with wood, you would want to go back with treated planks like the manufacturer put in it. I'm sure there are reasons why they picked what they did. Legal disclaimer: This poster is completely unknowledgable in horse trailers and you should not take anything this poster says seriously. Always wait for someone that knows more than this poster to get the best advice. |
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Veteran
Posts: 296
 
Location: Tennessee | I agree with Razorback (nice disclaimer, btw. LOL), don't go with plywood.
What kind of trailer is it? Does it have rubber mats? Haven't seen one with boards going both ways. The trailer design may rely on that for structural integrity. If so I'd replace it with something as strong or stronger using the same crossply method.
If there's a good steel frame under there, you could probably just use one layer of treated 2x6 pine with rubber mats over it. Or you could get fancy and use oak, poplar or cypress or even the rumber stuff. Those will probably outlast the rest of the trailer unless it's aluminum. |
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Location: Georgia | When buying the 2x6s, go somewhere you can get a better grade than what you will find at the box stores. You will be better off with a #1 Dense or a Dense Select Structural if you are using pine. If you install the 2x6s yourself, remember that the pressure treatment only protects the outer portion of the wood. Once you cut, drill, or nail, you need to reseal the area.
Ditto on the disclaimer |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
 
Location: western PA | The only pine you can consider is the southern yellow species which is commonly used in treated lumber. Regular pine found in the lumber yards, also sold as fir/pine is too soft and easily rots. Use any number of hardwoods instead, oak, ash, maple, locust, popular etc. Do not use any boards with shakes, closed tight knots are acceptable. Don't use plywood, even the pressure treated types. It will not wear well and as noted, does not allow drainage. BOL Gard |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 333
| What about Rumber? I think if I had to replace a floor, I would seriously look at this material.
Jbsny |
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New User
Posts: 4
Location: California | Rumbar is great but it will need a more support than wood. The supports for a rubber floor must be closer than for a wood floor. While you have the old floor out it is easy at add more support. Any high school welding class graduate can do it, but get the required amount of reccommended spacing from the flooring manufacturer. It will last a loooong time. |
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Regular
Posts: 97
Location: Newport News, VA | I just bought wood to replace the floor of a used trailer I bought that was advertised as "good", but had boards that you could see through. I haven't gotten around to doing anything more than my husband stacking it in the garage, so far. I went to a local lumber yard and they ordered me 14- 8 foot 2x8 common oak boards for just over $200 with tax. Those jokers are HEAVY. I was told to treat them with deck sealer before installing them. Due to weather/time constariants, I haven't gotten further than buying the sealer. Maybe this weekend. It is supposed to be warm. |
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New User
Posts: 4
Location: uk | thanks for all that advice lads and lasses, very helpfull, i didnt realise that plywood wasnt suitable, 2 by 6 planks of haredwood look to be best/easiest it looks. thanks. tim |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Originally written by gard on 2008-02-01 5:44 PM BTW, if you use fewer wider boards, 2x8 2x10 or 2x12, rather than many 2x6s, you will construct a much stronger floor. |
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New User
Posts: 4
Location: uk | thanks again lads and lasses, it looks as if i am having 28mm hardwood, dont know how wide yet, but the cost will be about £260, apparently the supports arent in the right place for any kind of board (so they say). I am going to start to take the old floor out in the morning. tim |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Your 28 mm lumber, with a loading of 1000# horses can only safely span a gap of about 30 -35 CM. If you could increase the thickness to around 40 mm, the floor joists span could be as far as 45 -50cm. Can you purchase unfinished (rough cut) lumber? It is less expensive and usually is available in thicker sections. Gard |
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New User
Posts: 4
Location: uk | thanks for that Gard, i shall look into that after i have removed the old floor, i will be able to measure the gaps between the supports more accurately then, hopefully i dont find the supports are rusted through themselves ......... a sample of the timber i have seen is both planed and rebated halfway through along the edges so they slot together side by side. i havent measured the width of them yet !. tim
Edited by timmy toad 2008-02-02 1:11 AM
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new trailer floor needed
