Show up to look at the trailer during the daylight, not after dark. Bring a flashlight, tire pressure guage, jumper wires, jack and lug wrench and a couple of screwdrivers. You might need a male trailer plug that matches your truck female receptacle. Wire strippers and a test light will help rewiring the plug. Some manufacturer's web sites have their trailer wiring posted. Print this out and bring it. Include a copy of your truck plug wiring. My truck has a plastic tag on the plug. Plugs are marked where the various colors are fastened. Bring a large piece of cardboard or carpeting to lay on while looking underneath the trailer. Check the frame and where the various pieces are joined together. Make sure the welds are not broken, with no serious rust or corrosion damage. Look at the bottom of the flooring for holes or broken pieces. See if there is any loose wiring hanging down. Really look at the areas where the axles are mounted to the frame. There should be no damage or rust issues. Check the tires including the spare for sidewall delamination or cracking and thread wear. Make sure they are all properly inflated. look under the mats at the top of the flooring. Ask when the last time the wheel bearings were greased and the brakes inspected, Ask to see the inspection paperwork. Make sure all the hardware is working; front jack, stall divider latches, door latches, rear door hinges and all holdbacks. Make sure all the doors fit in their frames and aren't twisted. Check the condition of the windows, their opperation and hardware. Check the opperation of any equipment, moveable saddle racks etc. Inspect carefully the hitch for opperation and wear. Bring jumper wires to temporarly hook up the brakes if the plugs aren't compatable. Hook the trailer to your truck and move it while trying the brakes. Check the break away switch to see if the brakes lock up. If the brakes aren't working, you may have to consider not moving the trailer until they are repaired. Is the seller trying to help you with this inspection? Or is he rushing you and saying that everthing is fine.? His demeanor may be an indication of what he is selling. Your gut feeling about him, may warn you to look more closely at the particulars. Ask him what has gone wrong or what he has repaired. Why is he selling the trailer? Carefully judge the type of answers you recieve. Ask to see the title before handing over any money. Make sure that the owner's name on the title is the person selling the trailer. If the seller makes a statement that something was just repaired or replaced, have him put it in writing on the bill of sale. Make sure that you have a signed bill of sale with both of your names included and the vin# of the trailer. Some states require that the title and bill of sale be notarized. Do this before you leave with the trailer. If you're not sure what you're looking at, take a knowledgeable person with you.It could be a trailer owner or a mechanically inclined individual. When you consider the asking price, in the back of your head, you will have to include what it will take to repair or upgrade the trailer to what you want. Ask if the asking price is firm or negotiable. Any defects are haggling points. If the total price is ultimately higher than the trailer is worth, be prepared to walk away. In most states, the sale from a private individual is an "as is, where is, buyer beware" sale. You buy it you own it. Unless you can prove the seller deliberately hid a defect, or misrepresented his sale, the purchaser is on the hook for the condition of the trailer when he gets it home. It's difficult going through small claims in your own state, out of state litigation is particularly arduous. As soon as you get it home, pull the wheels, inspect the brakes and repack the bearings. Put oil or never sieze on the wheel studs. Fix the things that are necessary and be prepared to enjoy your new purchase. A sale where the buyer and seller are both happy is the ultimate goal. If you do your homework this can be a pleasurable event. Good luck |