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Member
Posts: 9
Location: Washington | I am looking into ordering a new 4 Star but need to keep it relatively small since I tow with a 3/4 ton 4x4 Dodge diesel. I am looking at a 2 horse GN with a mid-tack and small (4-6ft) LQ. Apparently 3500# axles are standard on a 2 horse, would I need to upgrade to 5200# axles if I am adding LQ? The safety and comfort of my horse are my first priority so I don't want to cut it too close on something major like the floor or axles. So for all of you out there with 4 Stars which options did you choose and why? What didn't you like? |
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Location: Central Arkansas | 1) Low position latches on the head & butt doors. Love them! 2) Collaspsible back tack. Great for hauling golfcart, mower, hay, etc. 3) full ramp over full double doors |
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Member
Posts: 30
| Yea, 5,200's would be good. I would think your 4-Star dealer would be able to point that out. |
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Expert
Posts: 1719
Location: PA | Tell 4-star what you intend to do with the LQ. Give them a layout so they can make the trailer structurally sound for what you intend to do. They will advise you on what axles you need. I would suggest 8' wide for more room if you intend to finish it off. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
Location: Lockport, Illinois | Have it braced for AC, and make sure they put the windows in the gooseneck that pop out in an emergency. I would also get a 3 horse with escape door and a stud divider, it can be used for extra storage or a place to put hay, and a 3 horse is easier to sell than a two horse. I have my roof in the horse area insulated, it cuts down the heat in summer. Someone else already suggested that you have drop downs on the butt wall, great for cross ventilation. I have one slant stall 6" wider than the rest, if I want to hall a PG mare, or have a big horse. I think now 4Star offers a ruberized floor, another great option. You might want a door between the mid-tack and the LQ, you could use the mid-tack for a mud room if it rains. Get an idea how you want the LQ set up, it is easier to put in a large side window in during construction than aferwards, the same holds true for your undercarriage water tanks and the area they require. |
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.jpg) Veteran
Posts: 195
Location: Atlanta, GA | If you are adding an LQ have them put 5200# axles on it with 16" wheels and tires and have them put a 2" lift on the trailer and drop the nose pan down. This will give you clearance for holding tanks, and for the truck bed. By dropping the nose it will give you head room in the nose area. You will be much happier with your trailer and have less trouble with clearance. If you are getting a mid tack you should only need a 2 horse, if you only haul 2 horses. If you get a 3 horse trailer with a stud divider or a full height divider then you won't need the mid tack and gives you the option of hauling 3 horses if needed. That's a tough one . If you are having some one put the LQ in later and not buying it with an LQ already installed then you might want to have it LQ prepped.( no carpet, framed for AC, kick out windows, etc) this in some cases can save or cost you. It's according to the trailer manufacturer, each one is a little different. Good Luck |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 736
Location: Western WA | Order it extra tall, 7 ft 6 inches rather than the standard 7 ft tall. Extra 6 inches is nice in the gooseneck area of the LQ so you don't bang your head on the ceiling. Plan your LQ layout ahead of time and as someone pointed out, order with windows in appropriate locations and choose which side you want your door. You won't regret having a mid-tack. Definitely recommend that option! |
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Member
Posts: 9
Location: Washington | Thanks for all the good advice. I think I am going to go for the mid tack and x-tall & wide. I can't decide about how to do the LQ though. I know I will have the trailer made to accomodate LQ, but should I have the LQ installed when it is made or look for a conversion company myself? Is one cheaper or better in some way than the other? If I look for one on my own what should be done to the trailer to have it LQ ready? Sorry for all the silly questions, I am new to the whole LQ thing. Thanks! |
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Member
Posts: 30
| 3day....I would recommend you go ahead and have the LQ installed. As far as who does it...who does your local 4-star dealer use? You can pick any company to do the work outside of who your dealer recommends/uses. There's plenty of them to choose from. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 648
Location: Coconut Creek, FL | A good friend that I camped with for a year has a 2H GN LQ that she had custom built by 4Star. Her favorite options include: 7'6" height, onan generator in the rear tack & a large gas tank in the mangers, a ceiling exhaust fan in the GN area, lots of cabinets for storage, outside water spicket for hosing horses off when no water is available, & stud stall. |
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Member
Posts: 24
| The best option the 4 star has is the WERM flooring. Never touch mats again. |
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| Originally written by 3dayremy on 2007-03-24 12:22 AM
I am looking into ordering a new 4 Star but need to keep it relatively small since I tow with a 3/4 ton 4x4 Dodge diesel. I am looking at a 2 horse GN with a mid-tack and small (4-6ft) LQ. Apparently 3500# axles are standard on a 2 horse, would I need to upgrade to 5200# axles if I am adding LQ? The safety and comfort of my horse are my first priority so I don't want to cut it too close on something major like the floor or axles. So for all of you out there with 4 Stars which options did you choose and why? What didn't you like?
Tell 4-Star what your upfitting plans are, they will help you with the decisions on axles, spring rate, wheel and tire selection.
To help them with this the breed/size of your horse(s) might also be relevant - e.g. Shires vs Shetlands (-:
If you go blindly with a "bigger is better" approach there is some risk that you will finish up with a trailer that is "oversprung", that is harsh riding, that is "jouncy", and a few other adjectives.
My experience with 4-Star is that they don't "under-build". They will tell you if your intended use is at the edge of 3500 and 5200 lb axles.
They DO know more about this than most of us combined (-:
I don't think I would pay extra to have air ride, it is good, nice, etc., but probably not worth the money. If I did order it I would ask for manual override control so that I could dump air, automatic level, or manually set the pressure. The system that I have is switched to either autmatically level or "off" (so that the pump doesn't cut in unexpectedly as a horse is getting on, which is likely.
I might ask for many way re-configurability {wow, a new word}.
e.g. 6 horse Head to head, 1, 2 or 3 box stalls, 7or8 horse slant (which I would rarely use, if ever), some downsizeable stalls for minis - - all this with the same gates/dividers that just snap into different holes - YEAH, I'm dreaming (-:
Good luck and ENJOY your trailer shopping, configuring and USE !
Edited by Reg 2007-04-07 10:07 AM
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Veteran
Posts: 112
Location: Columbus, Ohio | I second the WERM flooring! Also, if you go with the collapsible rear tack the 60/40 door v. 50/50! |
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| On the axles and underguts question.
I have electric over hydraulic brakes, I would SERIOUSLY consider disk brakes next time around, for which hydraulic operation is required.
If/when I go totally through my linings and IF I score more than one drum I will probably convert to disks anyway. It isn't much more expensive than a full set of linings and backing plates (not even counting drums).
It would be interesting to know the price of the disk brake option.
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Regular
Posts: 92
| Originally written by BigT on 2007-03-24 7:42 AM
I would also get a 3 horse with escape door and a stud divider, it can be used for extra storage or a place to put hay, and a 3 horse is easier to sell than a two horse. I have a newbie question about this. I've always been told to put the weight forward in the trailer - that is, if you're hauling fewer horses than you have stalls, you load the front and leave the rear empty. Wouldn't using the front stall for storage be contrary to this rule of thumb?
I've found this thread very useful because I am about to order a new trailer from 4 Star and am trying to figure out what I need/want. The list of options on the 4 Star web site is rather overwhelming! It's somewhat gratifying to discover that so far the options I've chosen agree with most of the suggestions here, although I'm not going to have LQ so those bits don't apply to me. ;)
I plan to order a 3H GN trailer to haul two big TBs. 7'6" tall. Dropdown bars and windows all around for maximum ventilation and versatility. I think I'm going to add on some extra space to the front tack/dressing room and a deadbolt lock as it is likely going to be my permanent tack room for my most-frequently-used tack. I think I will brace for A/C just in case.
I'm debating the rear tack idea ... don't really like them much - I prefer the trailer more open and inviting for the horses - but as long as it would be completely collapsible/removable it might be a good option to have. I'm not sure I understand all of the possible rear door configurations but I think what I want is 40/60 or 50/50 with no center post. No ramps for me! Am leaning towards WERM flooring although am also considering aftermarket Rumber. The 25-yr. warranty (vs. 2-yr. for WERM) is rather appealing. But factory-installed WERM would certainly be easier, probably cheaper, and everyone seems to love it who has it.
I'm in favor of reconfigurability (nice word) and am going to ask about that when I talk to the dealers. I don't want to do anything too weird that might affect resale later, but since I'm hoping to keep this trailer a good long time I'd like it to be as close to my ideal trailer as possible. I do not want to be trailer shopping again next year.
Stupid question about hay racks - how the heck do people get the hay up there? LOL! I don't think I'm getting a hay rack ... although it would provide a nice view at clinics and such!
What else should I be thinking about? Anything I should stay away from? Any "must-haves"? All advice gratefully received!
Franca |
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Expert
Posts: 2615
| Most definately take headhunter's advice about ordering the thing tall enough! We had to trade a really nice Platinum with an Outlaw conversion because they ordered it 7'tall,and when they dropped the ceiling for ducted air,ect.it came out way to short.We couldn't sit up in the bed,and getting in/out of it was a huge struggle,also.Not to mention putting sheets on the mattress in that sweatbox. Be sure it is tall enough for you.You'll be miserable if it isn't. |
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Veteran
Posts: 148
Location: columbia tn | Franca, as for the hayrack question i load it with the front end loader on my tractor. it does great shavings,hay i also carry a extra spare tire up there...and 35 gal water tank you fill from the ground..its worth it just for the extra water storage and spare if you dont have a front end loader to hoist the stuff up there... happy trails |
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.jpg) Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico | http://www.balebuddie.com/ is one way of getting hay up there and Mr Truck has one on his web site that I really like. http://www.mrtrailer.com/loadup.htm |
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Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | The bale buddy is pretty neat...150 lb limit But Mr Truck's will handle upto 250 lbs and IRREGULAR shapes...just make sure the roof will support the load vectors... |
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Ordering a 4 Star- what options are worth it?
