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Member
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Location: Richmond, VA | Are box stall conversion doors really necessary and worth $900? Thanks. |
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Expert
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| It depends on WHICH 2 horse trailer.
e.g. for my own 2 horse bumper-pull, probably not since I can just take out the divider post and beam, butt bars, chest straps, etc. and I have a clear open space. For a 2 horse gooseneck trailer, maybe since there would be more floor length for them to get at the wrong end of if/when you hit the brakes HARD.
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Member
Posts: 40
Location: Richmond, VA | Thanks. It would be a GN, so I think it might be worth it. |
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| The "Project" Box Stall Divider.
I've used an 8ft "pipe gate" across the front half of my head to head trailer to improvise a box stall. There are a couple of "issues" with this approach, probably the worst is that the spacing of the tubes is too wide, i.e. a horse COULD get a leg part way through. Also, it isn't really high enough, so a horse MIGHT try to climb or jump it. What I'd really like to try is a couple of 6ft pipe gates cut down to 4ft high and stood on end, but that would put the pipes vertical, even worse unless I could cover them.
I've thought about chain link fence wire, which is probably not strong enough for a pawing horse and it would be difficult to secure to the gate without having various sharp things poking out.
Any suggestions ?
Other than spend a LOT of money on the factory "real thing".
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Regular
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Location: louisiana | Reg, You talk about pipe gates vertical ways instead of horizontal. My barn gates for my stalls are like this. I actually had the guy at a local pipe shop build them for me and I believe they were like 60 or 80 bucks for a 4 foot gate that is 6 foot tall. I LOVE THEM!!!! I had them spaced to where a hoof cannot fit through so no chance of them getting hung up. I do have a pic that I will try to attach IF I can figure out how to do it. |
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 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 455
Location: Texas | Couldn't you just go to your local welding shop/fab shop/blacksmith and just explain to them what you want? Or just buy some 1 1/2" square tube, some 16 gauge sheet metal, some hinges, and a latch and weld it up yourself. |
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| Originally written by jdzaharia on 2006-09-29 9:59 AM
Couldn't you just go to your local welding shop/fab shop/blacksmith and just explain to them what you want? Or just buy some 1 1/2" square tube, some 16 gauge sheet metal, some hinges, and a latch and weld it up yourself.
Yes, but pipe gates are already 60% to 80% fab'd up, so a bit more cut/weld/hack/drill and you're almost there (-:
The 8ft gate actually fits with no modification and the hinge halves clip nicely into the existing chest bar fittings at each side of the trailer.
It is just a couple of inches under 8 ft.
I actually LIKE doing this stuff, I just need to find a better way to either cover the gaps with some sort of wire/mesh or reduce the spacing.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 455
Location: Texas | Originally written by Reg on 2006-09-29 10:39 AM
Yes, but pipe gates are already 60% to 80% fab'd up, so a bit more cut/weld/hack/drill and you're almost there (-:
The 8ft gate actually fits with no modification and the hinge halves clip nicely into the existing chest bar fittings at each side of the trailer.
It is just a couple of inches under 8 ft.
I actually LIKE doing this stuff, I just need to find a better way to either cover the gaps with some sort of wire/mesh or reduce the spacing.
I gotcha. Why not weld sheet metal over the entire gate? It would make a nice smooth surface with no sharp edges or gaps. Paint it the same color as the trailer, and it will look and work like it was meant to be there.
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| Originally written by jdzaharia on 2006-09-29 11:39 AM
Originally written by Reg on 2006-09-29 10:39 AM
Yes, but pipe gates are already 60% to 80% fab'd up, so a bit more cut/weld/hack/drill and you're almost there (-:
The 8ft gate actually fits with no modification and the hinge halves clip nicely into the existing chest bar fittings at each side of the trailer.
It is just a couple of inches under 8 ft.
I actually LIKE doing this stuff, I just need to find a better way to either cover the gaps with some sort of wire/mesh or reduce the spacing.
I gotcha. Why not weld sheet metal over the entire gate? It would make a nice smooth surface with no sharp edges or gaps. Paint it the same color as the trailer, and it will look and work like it was meant to be there.
Ventilation / air flow.
I'm thinking of something like electical conduit (today). |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 455
Location: Texas | I am really stuck on this idea of welding sheet metal onto your gate. I had a picture of an idea in my head and the only place I have seen it used is on rodeo arena gates. Check out the gate in the background of the attached picture. Shouldn't be any chance of getting a hoof through that deal. And ventilation should be good, too. |
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.jpg) Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico | We used a fence pannel to keep heads out of our gate. My mare learned that she could put her head between the bars and lift the gate off the hinge. I couldn't change the top hinge around because the pins were welded to the post. I bought the pannel that had the small squares and had it welded to the gate and the edges ground down smooth. That took care of finding the gate on the ground (or hanging off the rope I used to keep it in place) and finding the mare in the pasture. http://www.oklahomasteel.com/panels.htm |
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Box Stall conversion for 2 horse
