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Veteran
Posts: 144
Location: Hickory Hills, IL | Hello everyone! Just wondering if there are any online articles or how to's on fixing electric brakes? I have never worked on any, but I have a chance to buy a trailer very very cheap ($250!) because it has a locked brake. I have done a lot of vehicle brakes, but not electric. The parts look to be fairly cheap, but how involved are they? These are the parts I found, I believe it has Dexter torsion bar axles- so for $180 I could put 4 new brakes on it. http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=23-26&Category_Code=TPB Anyone have any help? Thanks in advance! ~Kevin PS- I would like to pick up this trailer, put a little bit of work into it and sell it. It is a 3H BP stock trailer, the guy just wants to get rid of it as it costs $50 a month storage where it is at. I looked at it and the floor is solid and the lights work. It needs tires and the brake fixed as well as a paint job.
Edited by statzk 2006-08-17 11:54 AM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: Lone Oak, Tx | I've found this one: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf60120.htm
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Veteran
Posts: 143
Location: southeast U.S.A. | I'm not sure about electric brake repair manuals but I've seen the breakdowns of the parts on the dexter site I think.........But to the point, if your familiar with hydrolic drum brakes then you shouldn't have any trouble working on the electric type. The only significate difference is that the electric type work off an ellectrically activated magnet that clings to the outer part of the drum causing a swing-arm to spread(apply pressure to) the brake shoes.I replaced all 4 on our trailer for about $220 which included new backing plates,hardware,magnets and shoes.Opted to go this route cause the shoes alone wouldn't have cost me much less.There's really not allot there to "lock" the brake so I would be curious as to whats causing that. Possibly a return spring but even that shouldn't cause it to lock up permanently,just drag.On the other hand, after dragging for a few miles then being applied it could lock because of the heat and scorching on the pads. Just have to look and see! hth,Ardly |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: Lone Oak, Tx | This lady has some good pictures of the inside of the hub and taking it apart to re grease the bearings, something I need to do,
http://www.redwrench.com/trailswest/brakes/default.htm
http://www.redwrench.com/trailswest/brakes2/default.htm
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Veteran
Posts: 143
Location: southeast U.S.A. | maccwall, GREAT ARTICLE,VERY INFORMATIVE AND WELL WRITTEN, Ardly
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 671
Location: THE GREAT NORTHWET, OREGON(THE REAL GODS COUNTRY) | THEY ARE FAIRLY SIMPLE. http://www.dexteraxle.com/products___literature This might help |
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Member
Posts: 11
Location: Oklahoma | If it's an older trailer it would probably be better to replace the backing plates. It is more cost efficient to replace the backing plate as to replacing several individual parts, (like shoes, springs, and Magnets). I have had some brakes lock up do to the fact that they were never used or lost power from bad magnets or cut wires. This causing them to rust and seize up sometimes to the point we couldn't free them. Just a few bolts and a few wire connectors and your done. If you can work on a vehicles braking system then this will be a breeze. |
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Veteran
Posts: 144
Location: Hickory Hills, IL | Thanks for the help everyone! The replies make me feel comfortable I will have no issues in getting this trailer road worthy. It was used for local trips until last year since then it has been sitting. Well I have taken the plunge and made my offer on the trailer, so if all goes well I will own it tonight. I will be replacing the brakes with 4 of the new complete assemblies (they are 3500# axles, so I am guessing they are the 10"). I am going to hook it up to my truck tonight and check out the lights and such. The trailer is at the barn where my wife works and I help out at (shameless plug- this is my website for the barn: http://www.fitzjoyfarm.com ) by doing the website and such so I have a place to work on it, no need to drag it home with a locked wheel. I have no idea what year this trailer is, but the floor is solid and it has torsion bar axles- other than that I can fix whatever I find and still come out ahead at only $250 for a 3H BP!!! Cheers! ~Kevin |
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Veteran
Posts: 144
Location: Hickory Hills, IL | Well I got the trailer- it is an '89 WW 3 horse stock trailer. Wouldn't you know it, but I also sold my Corvette today so now I have the money to buy the new Titan my wife and I have been looking at all summer! Well I suppose having two trailers is better than none! Going to go through this WW and sell it (that was the plan all along, but I was planning on using the WW in the meantime!). I hooked it to my truck and drove it around the barn after inflating the tires, all four of them held air all day (8 hours) and all four rolled fine (even though I was told one was stuck, it wasn't!). Aslo the brakes work, they actually work better than the brakes in the two trailers we have borrowed! With my prodigy it stopped well, and on the gravel road around the barn I was able to apply the brakes manually and have the rear two lock up and the front two skip just a touch. I'm going to redo the floor, repack the bearings, touch up the worst rust spots and call it done! Thanks again for all your help! After doing the floor and bearings it will make a fine trailer, probably sell it for $2000. ~Kevin
Edited by statzk 2006-08-20 11:02 PM
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