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Regular
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Location: Casa Grande Arizona | So I moved my gooseneck. It was a pretty easy job for the most part. Here is my last question. How tight do you tighten the bolts? Or is there a certain way to tighten them. I used impact wrenches but I did the wrench and hammer thing too. It just seems really weird that all you have to do is tighten them up and that is it. I almost feel like there should be a pin or something that goes through the gooseneck so that it can't slip. Is this weird or just the way it is? Later, Chad |
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Expert
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| Originally written by recurveman on 2006-03-14 7:12 PM
So I moved my gooseneck. It was a pretty easy job for the most part. Here is my last question. How tight do you tighten the bolts? Or is there a certain way to tighten them. I used impact wrenches but I did the wrench and hammer thing too. It just seems really weird that all you have to do is tighten them up and that is it. I almost feel like there should be a pin or something that goes through the gooseneck so that it can't slip. Is this weird or just the way it is? Later, Chad
There's a torque spec., you gain NOTHING by exceeding it and stand to risk weakening the bolts themselves and/or the coupler tube.
Impact wrenches ? - only if you have them calibrated to the torque spec.
"the wrench and hammer thing" ? - {cringe} I doubt that was calibrated (-:
If there was no data with your trailer you can get std torque specs from tables, by bolt size and material.
BTW, if your username here is an archery reference - you might be strong enough to overtighten those bolts with just hand wrenches - I'm thinking upper back muscles (-:
Edited by Reg 2006-03-14 7:48 PM
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Expert
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Location: North Carolina | Originally written by recurveman on 2006-03-14 5:12 PM How tight do you tighten the bolts? Or is there a certain way to tighten them. I used impact wrenches but I did the wrench and hammer thing too. It just seems really weird that all you have to do is tighten them up and that is it. I almost feel like there should be a pin or something that goes through the gooseneck so that it can't slip. Is this weird or just the way it is? Wow !! with all that you might have over tightened them. You have to consider the inner part is a hollow tube. It can collapse Here's a link to a chart for cup point set screws. http://www.safetysocket.com/bd/Products/setscrewtorque.htm A 3/4 inch set screw should be tightened to 179 foot pounds. A guy pulling up on a large wrench (2 foot long) can generate that easily. The axial holding power is 7500 pounds per screw. Most GN's have two set screws so the post should support about 15,000 pounds. Seems safe enough to me, without a pin. |
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Regular
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Location: Casa Grande Arizona | Well........I think they are probably a little to tight. I don't have an adjustable/measurable wrench so I just guessed. Hopefully it wasn't to much. I never thought that the tube was hollow. I was just scared to death that screw would back out. Thanks, Chad |
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Expert
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Location: North Carolina | Originally written by recurveman on 2006-03-14 10:01 PM Well........I think they are probably a little to tight. I don't have an adjustable/measurable wrench so I just guessed. Hopefully it wasn't to much. I never thought that the tube was hollow. I was just scared to death that screw would back out. Thanks, Chad The set screw won't loosen, because you've tightened the locking nut after you've torqued the set screw tight ... right ??? |
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Regular
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Location: Casa Grande Arizona | That little locking nut is very tight too. I'm still scared that it is going to fall but I'm sure I'll get over it after a few trips. Worse case.......I'll have to get a flatbed to replace my destoyed pickup truck bed. Later, Chad |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: Columbia, TN | Invest in a torque wrench and you don't have to have a real high priced one. You can get one from Sears that has markings I think for around 50 bucks. I retorque all my wheels on my truck because most air wrenches go to 125 lbs. and the truck specks on mine is 140 lbs ( I have had one wheel come loose because of this) When you are having your tires rotated tell the guy to get his torque wrench out you will be amazed how much more they will tighten. The wrench guy will look at you like you are nuts, but tell him to do it anyway or use your own wrench when you get home. |
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 Veteran
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Location: Northern IN. | Recurveman, Here's an idea for ya, we use this on some of our wagons, mostly the stock trailers, and ALWAYS on a double decked wagon... take a measurement of the size of pipe that the top part of your hitch is made up of, then measure how much space you have from the bottom of the top part to where the "inner" section flares out near the bottom, in other words, how much have you droped your hitch. Run to the local welder or machine shop and pick up a length of pipe that will in essence extend the top section of the hitch clear down to the bottom of the inner section. Does this make sense? I don't feel like I'm explaining it very good. I guess, kinda make a big a$$ "washer" (for lack of a better term) to take up the distance that you have droped the inner section. What we ussually do is have two or three smaller pieces that we can stack to get the desired height, so that if we need a different rig under the wagon we can pull a section or two back out. So, after you get a section of pipe that is the same diameter of the outer section of your hitch, drop the inner section all the way off, slide your new "shim" over that, then reinsert it back up into the outer part where it belongs, it's snug, can't go any farther in and will keep it exactly where ya need it, but tighten your two set bolt to specs, also, of course. Just an idea that works for us. If this doesn't make a lick of sense let me know I'll try to get some pics. |
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Regular
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Location: Casa Grande Arizona | NOW that is a GREAT idea!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would bet that it would never break loose but if it did I would have a backup shim job thing-a-majig. I just wish I could have thought of that myself. Do you tighten the shim down or just let if free float? I would think that it would make noise. Thanks. I'll get one after I get the gooseneck to the desiered heigth. It will be cheap piece of mind. Later, Chad |
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Expert
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| Originally written by recurveman on 2006-03-15 6:49 PM
NOW that is a GREAT idea!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would bet that it would never break loose but if it did I would have a backup shim job thing-a-majig. I just wish I could have thought of that myself. Do you tighten the shim down or just let if free float? I would think that it would make noise. Thanks. I'll get one after I get the gooseneck to the desiered heigth. It will be cheap piece of mind. Later, Chad
I think I'd call those spacers: "Big A$$ Collars".
A good idea, they would certainly stop the inner tube from disappearing up into the outer tube - only needed if you didn't torque up those set screws ENOUGH (-:
I used a magic marker during my "experiments", so I'd have a place to go back to.
Another tip is to use the safety chains to prevent the coupler tube from falling out as you're working. The way mine are arranged I can just hook one to the coupler's locking handle.
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: Columbia, TN | Yea my Hart trailer came with those on it. I had two smaller ones and one large one I had to take the large one off to get my trailer right. They work well and you don't have to worry about them slippng. They are just pieces of the upper sleve or pipe. |
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Veteran
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Location: Northern IN. | A collar, Yeah, thanks Reg. that's just the word I was lookin' for the other day. As for the collar clanging or making noise... it'll be fine (and quiet) if you push the inner part of your hitch all the way up as far as you can with the collar on. The top of it will be tight against the outer pipe, and the bottom tight against the flared out section of the inner pipe. Everything nice and snug, no vibrating or noise. P.S. Be SURE to get the collar(s)chrome plated before you install it!! (just 'cause it'll look COOL  !!!) LOL.
Edited by Broken Bit 2006-03-16 5:07 PM
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How tight to make the gooseneck?
