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| Im thinking of buying a 25 gallon Water buddy for under GN of trailer. Anyone have these and what are your thoughts on them? Thanks in advance!http://www.doubleduty.com/accessories.htm |
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Expert
Posts: 1283
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey | Wouldn't work for me I don't have the clearance between the truck bed and the trailer. I don't know what your driving or pulling but check the space between the truck bed and trailer if you have the room don't see why they wouldn't work. |
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Member
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Location: Houston, TX | I just visited the site: http://www.doubleduty.com/accessories.htm
It really looks like this should clear a lot of trucks. Mine included! I'm definitely going to look into it for myself. Thanks for the headsup.
Nathalie |
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Expert
Posts: 2453
Location: Northern Utah | I know it won't clear mine! If you stay on the pavement and park in Fairgound flat parking lots, you are OK. As soon as I try turning with any kind of uneven terrain, I barely clear my bed rails. Any Forest Service or Back country road and I'd ruin them.
Edited by Painted Horse 2006-03-05 8:09 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 127
Location: Fort Worth, Texas | I just saw the Truck Water Buddy and it's just a little bigger than the Trailer Buddy (2" deeper). Could you not install the Truck Buddy under your gooseneck nose if you had the clearance? The price difference is enough to get me interested !!! |
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Expert
Posts: 1283
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey | The truck budy's dimensions are 6" deep in order to tow that you would have to have over a foot of clearance at the minimum. I take it you tow your trailer with a flat bed, and would never, never, NEVER tow it with a truck with a bed. JMO |
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Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico | That would depend on how the trailer is set up. Both of those tanks would fit under my gooseneck and not clear the bottom of the support beams. The way my trailer is made, the "beams" are 8 inches deep and the cross rails for the sleeper are secured on top of those. Of course that doesn't leave much headroom in the sleeper, but your supposed to be laying down up there anyway, right? |
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Posts: 1283
Location: Home of Wild Turkey Whiskey | OOOOOOOHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! I go up there to hide every now and then, sounds like your trailer has quite a different set up and I would take advantage of it, if you can. |
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Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico | I would post picts for you, but I've never figured out how. I can't make up my mind on what I want to do with that space. I want a water tank, but I have a friend that is going to work for a welding co. and is going to do some work on my trailer for me. The co. allows the guys to work on personal projects after hours (for cost of materials) and he is going to move the outside tie rings, remove the calk on the roof seam and put a solid weld, add a hay rack and move the spare tire holder out from under the goose neck. He said if I want the floor of the GN lowered to give me more head room he could do that too. He said just make a list of what I want done and as he has time he will get it done. So, do I want more headroom? Or a water tank. I could always get the big tank and put it on the hay rack when I get it. Decisions, decisions. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | I'm thinking of adding a water tank to my hay rack since I don't have any way to get hay up there. Someone said to get a black water tank, that water will sour in a white one because of the hot Texas sun. Anyone heard that before?
-Betty |
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Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico | I've been told to get a black tank to prevent algae, but not because the water would sour. Of course it will get hot being out in the sun. |
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Member
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Location: Houston, TX | I hadn't heard of souring in the white tanks, but I know that a number of hayrack water tank manufacturers are making black tanks now - so maybe that's the reason why? I'd stick with a water tank intended for hayrack installations. They make them where you can fill them from the ground, in black, and so that they can be easily and firmly attached to the racks without worrying about slipping, etc and aerodynamic. here's an example: http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?PGGUID=542e3ec1-eb07-494f-8... |
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Member
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Location: Houston, TX | By the way, I don't believe the materials made for black water tanks are intended for potable water? |
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Expert
Posts: 2453
Location: Northern Utah | He is not refering to tanks made to hold BLACKWATER. But rather tanks that have some color in the plastic to stop the sun rays from Heating the water inside. The dark tanks I've seen are actually a Forest Green color and they claim it keeps the water cooler than the white tanks when parked in direct sun. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Originally written by threehorses on 2006-03-09 3:53 PM
By the way, I don't believe the materials made for black water tanks are intended for potable water?
I never drink the water out of the fresh water tank. I just use it to shower, wash hands, etc... I carry bottled water for drinking & food prep.
-Betty
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Member
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Location: Houston, TX | Originally written by Painted Horse on 2006-03-10 8:21 AMHe is not refering to tanks made to hold BLACKWATER. But rather tanks that have some color in the plastic to stop the sun rays from Heating the water inside. I know - that's why my previous post points out where he can get the darker freshwater storage. Just wanted to make sure if he was looking at something else (or anyone else was reading the thread) that they understood that not all water storage is meant for potable water. :)
Nat |
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Veteran
Posts: 233
Location: Tennessee | Terri, tell me more about the solid weld on the roof seam. Will that prevent leaks? Will that work on any trailer? Right now recaulking for me is a hit and miss thing and I still have some leaks. |
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Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico | The recaulking hasn't worked for me either and the way my trailer was made, the wall panels overlap the roof instead of the roof overlapping the walls. That is just asking for leaks no matter how much calk I can squeeze in there. I have talked to several welders and they all said that because it is thin sheet metal that they would have to weld about 4 inches and then stop and move down about a foot or so to keep the metal from overheating and getting wavy. They would do 4 inches, move down and do 4 more inches and just continue like that all the way around the dressing room area until it is all welded. I have a fiberglass nose that I am going to pop the rivits on and replace that calk since the pieces can be taken apart and cleaned right. That should stop all my leaks and I don't see why it wouldn't work on any trailer. All the estimates I have gotten have been right about $100, BUT I only have a 2ft short wall. |
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Member
Posts: 48
Location: Just moved to Montana! | Here's a different idea if the under GN tank doesn't work. I am borrowing this idea from Macwall. http://todd.redwrench.com/index.htm I have a 25gal (I think) tank that fits very nicely behind the saddle rack in my rear tack. I will drill the holes and use fittings so that I can fill my tank and use a spigot to fill buckets! This will only be for horses. I have a separate tank and pump in GN for me. No more hauling water...Yeah!
Edited by milliecat 2006-03-26 5:35 PM
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| Terri,
What your welder seems to have NOT told you is that it is possible to then go back and skip weld the gaps. Even if he welded 4 inches, skipped 12, welded 4, etc., he could still go back and weld the 5-8, 21-23, 37-40, etc and then 9-12, 25-28.... and so on WITHOUT crinkling it all up.
There is generally no need to do that, the welds hold it and the caulk seals the gaps.
That said, there are some incredible continuous welds on my Jamco, yes I do KNOW that they havn't been washed in. Look at the ones around the fenders of a Jamco some time. If it was only in one place I would think someone was showing off, but the whole trailer is done that way.
Yes push/pull guns, but it still takes some skill - NOT robots (-:
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| From many other posts here I'd guess that many/most of us don't HAVE an EXTRA 4 inches of clearance to mess with.
There are flexible marine tanks (for fresh and/or gray water) that MIGHT fit up between the cross members. I havn't done any research on this, but it could be an avenue worth exploring. Some bracing, brackets, whatever, some invention might be needed (-:
How about a suspended net ? {just inventing out loud}
Edited by Reg 2006-03-26 6:49 PM
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Expert
Posts: 2828
Location: Southern New Mexico | Actually he did tell me that, that's why I said he would continue like that all the way around the dressing room area until it is all welded. That way there was one contunious weld and no more calk to dry out and leak. |
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