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Member
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| Well, it didn't look too bad in the dark... I caught a fender, actually bent the front corner a little, didn't touch the running board. It's on the border of "live with it", but I think I'd like it fixed. Would a body shop have the know how to work with aluminum? What about the dealer? I don't get the impression they do repair, though. Does the entire fender need to be replaced usually? If it is repaired, will it look "perfect" again? If not, I don't think I'd bother. |
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New User
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Location: Southwest ranches Fl33331 | I blew a couple of tires coming across country last fall and bent/tore up both fenders.I replaced one and repaired the other. If I could do it over I'd have replaced both. You can tell its been hit! Mostmight not notice but you'll see it every time you use your trailer. |
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Member
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| That's about it. It isn't that bad, but of course it pops out at me. How did you replace the fender? This fender is welded on and I just can't imagine it looking "pretty" if it were replaced and they didn't know what they were doing (like me). I already tried bending it out a little and soon realized the edge was going to end up wavy if I continued. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 565
 
Location: Michigan | Can you contact a dealer that sells your type of trailer and see what they suggest? At least you will be on the look out next time! LOL! |
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Expert
Posts: 2689
 
| As with many things, "it depends".
It depends largely on how the fenders are made and how they are attached.
In turn that depends largely on who made the trailer, the manufacturer and you didn't mention them. Some just use brackets to bolt on pre-made fenders, others tig or mig weld the fender to the trailer's outer wall with one continuous bead.
If they're "diamond plate" alumin you'd probably be best off to find a local welding shop, most of them can do aluminum. Another possibility is truck (tractor/trailer type) repair shops, they handle a LOT of aluminum work but you'd have to find one that would be interested in a small project. |
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Member
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| I called the dealer and they do not do any work. It's an 4H '04 Exiss Event and the fenders are welded exclusively, including to the running board. They recommended a shop, said it might be around 500-600 to replace, cut, weld. It happened at a tight 4 way stop. I knew to turn wide, but car came into my path and instead of hit them or hitting brakes, I turned hard and slid the trailer past a utility pole. Actually didn't do hardly any damage to the fender, but if it could only look new again. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 565
Location: Michigan | Ouch, that's painful especially when it is such a new trailer. I would ask around to local welders or body shop repair places. Maybe they can bump it back out some. Or just live with it, like you said. |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 1160
Location: Denver Colorado | I just got a GOWELD portable mig welder to review this week. So I will have the article here by summer. I think this would be just the thing for trailer dealers. You just clamp the cables on the two batteries of your diesel truck and start welding anywhere. The wire spool is in the handle and is still light. We're going to weld on a horse trailer in the country and I might even weld on an irrigation sprinkler. Got to stop the water from squirting all over. |
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| Originally written by MrTruck on 2005-04-01 1:18 PM
I just got a GOWELD portable mig welder to review this week. So I will have the article here by summer. I think this would be just the thing for trailer dealers. You just clamp the cables on the two batteries of your diesel truck and start welding anywhere. The wire spool is in the handle and is still light. We're going to weld on a horse trailer in the country and I might even weld on an irrigation sprinkler. Got to stop the water from squirting all over.
That would be AFTER disconnecting one of your dual batteries and wiring them in SERIES to get 24 Volts DC, if you want to do aluminum use reverse polarity, electrode positive. Also DO NOT weld on the truck that is supplying the power if you have left one battery connected, (straight polarity, electrode negative for steel, etc.) It is similar to the ReadyWelder (a better product IMAO that can also be used on CC power sources). These are not REALLY outdoor welders, though portable and house current independant.
I'm not sure what you can get in flux core for aluminum, if you can't then you'll have to rig up an argon bottle as well, but welding with a shielding gas in the great outdoors presents other problems )-:
BTW, if that irrigation sprinkler is bronze...
Ask the question in one of the welding forums (-:
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1160
Location: Denver Colorado | We're planning on the Argon gas as it comes with that setup for the aluminum, the hose and fitting anyway. You can hook to two batteries or three, cables included. And it has an extended shield over the nozzle for wind, but don't plan on welding in any hurricanes. It came with three spools of wire, one coated so I can weld mild steel without gas. With 3 batteries it is supposed to almost weld 1/2 inch. It's 50 duty cycle, my welders on the farm were 20, but I don't weld none stop anyway, gotta take a break and see what's on fire. |
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Expert
Posts: 2689
| OK, but if you have the chance to go with 18 Volts from a 6V and a 12V in series I think you'll find it to be MUCH nicer. 12 isn't enough to reliably strike a stable arc unless you're VERY good, 24 will pop out a couple of hundred amps at Ya kinda quick (-: Supposedly 36 gets "Exciting" quite quickly, 370amps or so, I havn't (yet) tried that.
Be careful even in the outdoors; leaves, twigs, etc just seem to swarm around your ankles and sponataneously light up. Sand, damp sand at least 4 inches deep is good. |
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New User
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Location: Southwest ranches Fl33331 | If your trailer is an exiss, I can tell you how my new fender was installed. It was spot welded on then calked at the exterior seam. No big deal. Any aluminum experienced welder can easily do the job in a hour. Again if I could do it again, I would have replaced both fenders. I have a 306 LQ and the fenders are $85 each. |
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 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Originally written by pac nw on 2005-04-01 10:34 AM
Well, it didn't look too bad in the dark... I caught a fender, actually bent the front corner a little, didn't touch the running board. It's on the border of "live with it", but I think I'd like it fixed. Would a body shop have the know how to work with aluminum? What about the dealer? I don't get the impression they do repair, though. Does the entire fender need to be replaced usually? If it is repaired, will it look "perfect" again? If not, I don't think I'd bother.
I've done it both ways on an Exiss. The first I ordered the fender and had a local shop put it on for $75. I think the total cost was around $175. The next time I caught the fender on a fence post I got out a huge sledge type hammer and bent it back out from the inside, and then used a palm sander with fine grain sand paper to polish it. Unless you walked right up to it, you couldn't tell. I think the first time I bent it, it was far worse than the second.
-Betty
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New User
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Location: albany, ga | does anyone have info on replacing a fender on silver star trailer? |
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Expert
Posts: 1989
Location: South Central OK | Call your biggest local dealer and ask them... |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448
Location: Los Angeles, Ca. | If it is bolted on, it is pretty easy.Fenders are available online.....come in different thicknesses and configurations....
If welded, better left to a shop. |
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Location: Central IL | We were hit in our old trailer a few years ago. It just dented in the fender a little where we were able to pull it out, but could still see the scratches and it wasn't "perfect". Quote from the trailer dealership to fix it in their shop was between $850-$900 cause the fender would have to be replaced and welded to the trailer and running board. We ended up just leaving it as it was
Edited by eeyore4176 2016-04-11 3:35 PM
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 Veteran
Posts: 175
Location: Florida | Excellent source for aluminum replacement fenders.
www.easternmarine.com/ |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350
Location: Penrose, Colorado | anyone that does there own repair before doing any hammering and straightening heat it with a heat gun or hair dryer and it will come out a lot better. if you use a torch be careful to not get it to hot. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | You can soften the aluminum by annealing it to an "O" state and then reworking it to its original hardness when you hammer out the repair. At a welding shop, you can purchase temperature indicating crayons, that will show the different temperatures of the metal. Depending upon the series of aluminum, you will want to heat it with a torch to 650- 8oo degrees. Do not go above the highest temps as many aluminum alloys melt at >1200 degrees. I use a bar of soap to tell when the metal is heated enough. Wipe onto the area you are working. When it discolours from the heat, I start the hammering process. When it becomes difficult to shape from the work hardening, it can be reheated and further manipulated. Trying to work the aluminum cold often results in cracking. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350
Location: Penrose, Colorado | what few times I needed to work on a fender the heat gun has worked fine, I was told not to get it to hot but I have no idea as to how hot you can get . I always worked in a small area at a time and used a hammer and a body dolly, if you take your time and do not get a wrinkle or crack it turns out very well, even if it cracks you then weld it up and grind it off. |
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aluminum fender repair
