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Veteran
Posts: 113
Location: Lyons Oregon | I need to replace the plywood in my trailer ramp. I'd like to use something other than wood. Any suggestions? It's a Logan Trojan 2H straight load. |
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Expert
Posts: 1989
  
Location: South Central OK | You might be able to use the poly sheets but they are VERY HEAVY so lifting your ramp might be problematic. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23869 |
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Veteran
Posts: 113
Location: Lyons Oregon | This is going to be more of a project than I thought. The wood goes under the support edges of the ramp. This trailer looks great but I'm glad I inspected the hidden wood in the ramp before I used it. It's mush!
Springs and hinges are all in great shape. But this "simple" repair looks like it will be beyond my can-do spirit. It looks like metal will need to be cut and welded back together once the wood is replaced. |
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Expert
Posts: 1989
Location: South Central OK | My steel trailer has a ramp that was cut open with a saw and a new U shaped channel set back over the opening and bolted back in place. You'll want to treat the steel under the old plywood with a rust arresting paint after a deep cleaning and inspection. For what it cost at the shop I just had them do it during the annual service. |
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Expert
Posts: 2958
Location: North Carolina | Originally written by cascadia on 2016-03-23 4:00 PM
This is going to be more of a project than I thought. The wood goes under the support edges of the ramp. This trailer looks great but I'm glad I inspected the hidden wood in the ramp before I used it. It's mush! Springs and hinges are all in great shape. But this "simple" repair looks like it will be beyond my can-do spirit. It looks like metal will need to be cut and welded back together once the wood is replaced. You can still DIY... After cutting the metal and replacing the wood, take the trailer to a welding shop. After it's welded, YOU can paint it. |
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Expert
Posts: 2958
Location: North Carolina | I've replaced plywood in a steel ramp. My problem was the ramp was reinforced in the middle. When a horse stepped on the edge, it was over loaded and bent. I fixed this by making the edges a truss. Welded 5/16 steel bar on the back edges with a 2 inch high spacer in the middle. It never bent again. |
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Veteran
Posts: 113
Location: Lyons Oregon | I'm proud of my finished DIY ramp project. I researched a fiberglass reinforced material called Thermolite used for boats water and impact resistant and lighter than plywood but it was $270.00 a sheet for 3/4 thickness. I ended up using marine grade plywood and coated it with two coats of Rustoleum liquid armor deck restorer. The Rustoleum product is 10x thicker than paint and is full of a gritty material like sand, however it did dry to a hard coating that hopefully will preserve the wood. However I did need to have a weld repaired so I turned to my ferrier for help and he kindly cut the ramp apart at the base, installed the wood and used more welds to make the ramp even better. He had to take the springs off as well and for some reason now the ramp lifts with ease! I can lift the entire ramp with one hand. I gave him a saddle he wants to make a barstool out of for his trouble. I've sanded, primed and painted the weld marks. Next I'll secure the rubber mat with stainless fasteners and the whole thing will be better than new! |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Baltic Birch plywood encapsulated in a marine epoxy (WEST, System Three, Maas etc.) will provide the strongest, longest lasting wood replacement. This plywood has one of the highest lamination count for it's thickness, no lamination voids or open knots, and each layer is a primary wood species. I rebuilt a ramp many years ago with these products, and the subsequent owners have had no failures since the rebuild. |
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Veteran
Posts: 113
Location: Lyons Oregon | @gard Thank you, That's a superior product indeed! Here in Oregon, Fir is more common. I found Marine grade difficult to source but managed to trade some rough sewn maple and oak for a sheet. |
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Replace ramp plywood?
