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 Veteran
Posts: 197
 
Location: AZ | We just picked up a 2012 Dodge 3500 dually with long bed and are prepping to haul our LQ. We installed a hitch extender for more front to back clearance, but the new issue is the trailer to truck bed clearance. We have between 5 and 6 inch gap between the top of the bed to the bottom of the GN. Is that enough? Do we need more? I am guessing the options are: install a flatbed or flip axles? We are not wanting to do either..what other option is there? Thanks for all your help/insight.
Edited by AZgrulla 2016-03-07 8:58 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1989
 
Location: South Central OK | If you can't/won't change the height of the trailer (flipping axles) or the bed of the truck (flat bed) the only other option might be to change the tires. I'm not sure if there are viable options for this either. Maybe increase the size of the trailer tires and/or downsize the truck tires at the same time. This might not buy you more than an inch or two and can be costly. If it were me (and it's not) I'd pick the flatbed on the truck and never look back. This will allow you to not only use this trailer but ANY gooseneck without hesitation if you need to or if you get more toys. I have a flatbed on my F350 and LOVE IT! I had a regular bed on my F250 and can say that I'll not be going back to a regular bed if I can help it. Love being able to reach in from the sides and not have to climb between the tailgate and jack wall of the trailer which is nearly impossible since my back surgery. I can also have a pallet of feed/shavings/whatever put right on the bed and take it off with the tractor once I'm home and I have the strap rails on the side for maximum versatility. |
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Expert
Posts: 2958
Location: North Carolina | With a long bed truck (8 foot) why do you need a hitch extender? Unless it's the pop-up brand, you're moving the hitch weight behind the axle.I've 9 inches between the bottom of the neck over and the top of the tailgate & bed sides. I've used every bit of it going over RR tracks and into fields to camp. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
Location: Valentine, NE | Another option is to "block" the trailer axles. This is just 2-4" block installed between the axle and the "axle trolley". Just need longer bolts and a "block" or "plate"-depending on how axle is hung. Most all trailer dealers can help with this. It is the easiest. Is fairly cheap. You can get a kit and even do it yourself I believe.If you change the tires on the truck, that leads to all kinds of problems. Have to reprogram the speedometer, and maybe more.Changing tires on the trailer could help, but I doubt you could get more than 2" before you run out of fender clearance. I am wondering about the extended hitch also. But, for clarification, does it really change the weight to behind the pickup axle? It is still attached to the ball in front of the axle and that is where the load is placed. Or is my physics understanding in error?Good luck!
Edited by Spin Doctor 2016-03-08 8:15 AM
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Veteran
Posts: 197
Location: AZ | It is the Pop-up Hitch extender...and we had to since we were very close to the rear end of the truck...it's rated at 20k...Thanks for all the insights/suggestions...our old truck had a flatbed and when we got this truck, it had they bed and we were hesitant to change since we are/were excited about having that option...not strapping basic loads/etc. We are running truck tires on the LQ...it's a heavy beast...not sure of size/load weight at this exact moment. Is 5-6" enough clearance? Thanks everyone!!! |
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Expert
Posts: 2958
Location: North Carolina | Originally written by Spin Doctor on 2016-03-08 5:12 AM
But, for clarification, does it really change the weight to behind the pickup axle? It is still attached to the ball in front of the axle and that is where the load is placed. Or is my physics understanding in error? The weight of the hitch is on the ball. Only the pop-up brand of hitch extender leaves the ball in front of the axle. The extension is on the trailer. The others like B+W move the ball back, even though the hitch is still in front of the axle, the weight is cantilevered backward. |
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Expert
Posts: 2958
Location: North Carolina | AZgrulla ... If you stay on level ground and don't go off road, 5-6 inches may be okay. Driveway cuts, RR track crossings and such will take up 6 inches quickly. I've been known to use the rear view mirror to watch the tailgate top edge.... while I inch the rig across something. |
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Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Ooh...Ooh...another chance to recommend the flatbed option... ... |
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Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | http://www.hillsboroindustries.com/product-types/2000-series-alumin... |
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Member
Posts: 14
Location: Somerset, Wisconsin | Have you adjusted the hitch tube yet? Park on a level blacktop parking area and see if your trailer is level to slightly higher in the front. I pulled a friends 2H GN this weekend with my 2015 Dodge 3500 dually. It was so high in the front that nearly all the weight was on the back axle. I couldn't lower it enough to help without my box hitting. If after leveling your hitch, the problem persists-the flatbed rack may be your best option. |
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Veteran
Posts: 197
Location: AZ | YEs, we have adjusted the new tube for the truck. We are elevated a smidge...hoping the horse will level it out... |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 391
Location: Columbia, KY | I had the same problem when we got a 2012 Dodge 3500 last winter. We took a 1" spacer ring out of the gooseneck and had the trailer axles blocked 4". The trailer still isn't 100% level - it's off by about 2" front to back. That gave me about 9" clearance and that's still cutting it close in some spots I drive. |
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Veteran
Posts: 197
Location: AZ | We have the Pop-up hitch installed and had to raise it 3" for level...we have 9" clearance now for the bed and we can open the truck bed and walk around it with no problems. Thanks again. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 602
Location: md | What makes the pop up hitch different from the b and w? |
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Member
Posts: 5
Location: Chichester | I am considering adding a spacer to my axels in order to increase my clearance as well. Did you find that lifting the trailer changed the way the trailer hauls? Any problems with sway? Do you have a ramp? Did you notice a big change in the steepness of your ramp? If you had it to do over would you lift the trailer or buy a flatbed for your truck?Thanks in advance for your reply. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 534
Location: Zionsville, Indiana | Very little difference except in price. Same under bed framework, same removable ball and virtually same accessories. Pop up has lots of adapters for fifth wheel to gooseneck adapters, set back couplers, etc. |
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Member
Posts: 15
Location: SW OK | I have a 2.5" leveling kit on the front of my 2015 Chevy K2500hd, mostly because I was tired of the air dam dragging on everything. An extra benefit has been that by taking out most of the 3" or so of rake from the factory, it actually lowered the rear of the truck a bit - I don't know how much because I never measured the height to the top of the tailgate before, but I'd say an inch or so. Definitely enough to notice a difference in gooseneck clearance with my CM aluminum. But, I have since discovered some of the guys over on the Silverado/Sierra forum that pull fifth wheels have gone to 2" lowering shackles on the rear springs - doesn't have any affect on load carrying capacity, and there's still way more than enough clearance for stock or even a little bigger tires. Iit still leaves about an inch of rake empty, but if your trailer's heavy enough to squat the truck more than that inch or so, you might want airbags to avoid a nose high stance. Leveling the suspension from either end is relatively inexpensive ($250 including installation and alignment for mine, lowering shackles for the rear should be right in that same range). Another fix I've seen lately is about 4" removed all the way around the top of the factory bed - it actually looks pretty neat, but I'd guess it would cost as much as a good flatbed to have it done right...
Edited by DLD 2016-04-12 10:44 PM
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Truck bed to trailer clearance
