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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 544
Location: Claxton, Ga. | Cleaning once a year is a pain in the butt. Black streaks and all. Just ordered my stuff from streakmaster. Forget this, I am building a shelter. My question is what do folks do for the floor. Concrete is what I was thinking. May be a little harsh on the tires. Idea's are welcome. |
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Expert
Posts: 2954
Location: North Carolina | Plain gravel. The shelter roof is the thing! keeps the trailer dry and the sun off |
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Member
Posts: 47
Location: Grayson Co. Texas | I'm fortunate enough to have a 30x40 insulated shop to keep my 2004 4 star in. I've had it for 7 yrs and you can definately tell a difference that it's not been left out in the sun and elements. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 544
Location: Claxton, Ga. | Originally written by grumpyoldman on 2013-08-05 12:21 AM
I'm fortunate enough to have a 30x40 insulated shop to keep my 2004 4 star in. I've had it for 7 yrs and you can definately tell a difference that it's not been left out in the sun and elements. I will be building a 30ft x 41ft so I can fit my dually under it also. Will a 12ft height be enough? I am kicking myself for not doing this sooner.
Edited by Spooler 2013-08-05 8:39 PM
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Expert
Posts: 2954
Location: North Carolina | Do you have a roof a/c? 12 is barely enough. 14 is better at little cost increase. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 544
Location: Claxton, Ga. | Yes, roof A/C. Sounds like I need to go 14ft. I was wondering about that. So it looks like I need to put crush and run on the trailer side and concrete the rest. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Adding a heavy layer of plastic under the stone, will lessen the moisture emanating from the ground and condensing on the bottom of the trailer. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 373
Location: Texas | Would like to have one built, but need to make sure it is wind rated. Once and awhile it blows like a son of a gun in TX. Also good for hail. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379
Location: Missouri | Originally written by Spooler on 2013-08-05 9:55 PM
Yes, roof A/C. Sounds like I need to go 14ft. I was wondering about that. So it looks like I need to put crush and run on the trailer side and concrete the rest.
There's one thing from my fathers barns I learned... 14 foot entry. That way anything legal height will go in. I went a few years before I could afford the barn, but now everything goes inside.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
Location: Valentine, NE | Several hints from experience---just because building has 14' eave height, doesn't mean you can get a 14' tall door in it..depends on framing of building.
Make sure you have room between the overhead door when up and the rafters for an electric opener.
Put in a min of 20 amp RV plug near where trailer plug in will be. Avoids a lot of cords....
Cement is nice, but we went with crushed stone and rubber mats. Saved a little $, but drains better from road salt, ice and snow melting off.
A min. of 12' wide door is a must. Anything narrower, IMO, is asking for bent sheet metal.
One contractor told me to park everything you want to put in the building together, measure around stuff, than double it for size...he was right, they fill up fast. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 714
Location: Minnesota | We built an 18 x 48 lean to on our barn for the trailer. Wish I had followed wifes idea to make it 8' longer so I could leave truck attached, but I wanted to leave a door we could get into the barn without having to walk through the lean to. Ditto on checking the door track height. We had to do a minimum clearance track in to get our 14' door. There is an existing water hydrant inside on the back wall so we can fill the water tank anytime. I also put a 30 amp plug on the wall right where my trailer outlet is. Also had electrician make me an 8' cord I can leave there, and not take the long one out of the trailer. Now I am going to put another outlet on the outside so I can move the trailer out as a guest house, or for when friends visit.
Edited by genebob 2013-08-06 10:55 AM
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