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Member
Posts: 8
| I'm shopping for my first horse trailer and have narrowed my search down to Shadow. Specifically a 2 horse gooseneck, more than likely a straight load. I am looking at the Pro Series and have two that I'm seriously considering. Both are essentially the same trailer except for a few differences which I think are major but wanted to get some feedback. The one trailer (trailer A) has 2 axles that are 3500lb axles each (7000lb total combined) and was told 5 lug wheels. Trailer as 15" Goodyear tires. The dutch doors on the back of the trailer do NOT have windows. The other trailer (trailer B) has 2 axles that are 5200lb axles each (10400lb total combined) and was told 8 lug whees. Trailer has 16" Goodyear tires. The dutch doors on the back of the trailer DO have windows.I am mostly going to be hauling one horse (midsized), hauling maybe every weekend, a few times a year long distances, and every few years a considerable distance cross country. While money is an object, I want to do it "right" my first try at this new trailer business and not say, "gee I wish I had ...." a few months down the line. I also want a trailer that I can sell if need be (probably not but still needs to be marketable to the widest variety of people just in case).What are everyone's thoughts/opinions on the differences I've listed above? Is it better to have the higher lb axles, more lugs, etc.? Does it change the way the trailer pulls, travels, ride for the horse, etc.?Thanks so much for your feedback! | |
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Expert
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Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | My vote is for trailer "B". If for no other reason because of the windows in the rear doors.... You'll never have too much light or ventilation.. | |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
 
Location: western PA | I would buy trailer "B" because of the heavier axles and especially the ability to replace the 16" ST tires with LTs. Long distance travels and sustained high speeds will warrant the best tires you can find; STs are not well built for those conditions. If you are buying a custom built new trailer and like the "A" version, why not inquire about adding the optional axles and tires to that model? Usually the upgrade is ~$700, combined, perhaps less than trailer "B". At any rate, the heavier axles and larger tires will serve you well, with more choices in tires and suspension capabilities. They will help ensure reliability, a paramount requirement when your long distance travel expectations are considered. | |
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Member
Posts: 8
| Great comments - thanks and keep them coming! I want to learn as much as I possibly can since I am new to this. Sounds like "Trailer B" is winning. I wasn't sure if I was doing an overkill on axle weight, tire size, etc. and if it, for whatever reason, was worse to get higher # axles and larger tires. Let's just assume for simplicity purposes that both the trailers are the same cost.Regarding the ST vs the LT tires - I am not super familiar with the differences and which is better. I currently have the understanding that the ST tires have a lower speed rating and lower air pressure requirement but softer sidewall so smoother ride due to more shock absorption? This is what I've read so far but not completely certain. Again, open to feedback on this too! | |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | The larger axles will also provide larger brake assemblies, always a good thing to have. Perform a search on ST and LT tries. Many threads are available.
Edited by gard 2013-05-16 4:24 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Larger axle capacity can result in a rougher ride if your trailer load pattern does NOT utilize that larger load capacity... | |
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Member
Posts: 8
| Okay so this is exactly why I was asking ... "Larger axle capacity can result in a rougher ride if your trailer load pattern does NOT utilize that larger load capacity..." Can I air down the tires to make a smoother ride? I'll only mostly be hauling one mid-sized quarter horse. I don't want it being a rough haul on him when I have to travel longer distances. | |
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Member
Posts: 8
| So while I'm asking questions .....
My earlier options of "trailer A" and "trailer B" are both new, 2013 trailers. Priced the same.
I have found, again nearly the same as the others, a used trailer by about 7 years old making it a 2006. Since this is my first trailer, I do not know if getting new is the way to go since I believe Shadow comes with a 7 year warranty on new trailers.
The used trailer is a 6 lug, 16" tire with aluminum wheels (except for the spare which is steel) and there are windows on the dutch doors. I cannot remember off the top of my head the # rating on the two axles. However, the trailer used to haul a warmblood - for whatever that's worth. Has been sitting approximately a year and needs new tires as the tires are original to the trailer.
My question is: Do I save the $6,000 and buy the used trailer that is in good shape (then needing to spend approx. $1,000 on new tires, making my actual savings $5,000) or bite the bullet and buy the new trailer and spend the extra money but get a brand new trailer? Since the 2006 trailer is 7 years old, the factory Shadow warranty is completely gone, thus making me nervous since this is my first trailer. However, I do not know exactly what the value is of a factory warranty on a trailer and if people even use them. Can you get a used trailer inspected by a "dealer" or whomever as you would a preowned vehicle? $5,000 is a LOT of money to me but like I said before, I want to do this "right" and by no means not skimp on safety to save money or buy a "deal" that really isn't a deal because it's an old trailer that's near the end of it's lifespan and will need continual repairs that are out of warranty. Saving $5,000 off the top though fixes a lot of issues! Thoughts on buying used vs. new? Worth the savings to go 7 years older for nearly the same trailer as new?
Edited by flstateualum 2013-05-16 10:34 PM
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | With a torsion bar suspension, the trailer's ride will not become intolerable with a light load, whilst using heavier capacity axles. I was once told that a pickup's ride was ruined by carrying one bag of dog food. Everyone has a different idea about what constitutes a rough ride. If you're unsure, have a dealer drive you about in one of each of the trailers, and see if you can discern any differences. After over a decade of an upgraded trailer ownership, I can say that the ride differences between the two suspensions when empty, were negligible. A bonus is when I hauled heavy items like a farm tractor. The tires weren't rubbing the fenders, there were no anxious moments at speed or in corners, the tires weren't flat on the bottoms. If you are concerned with the ride, you can lower the tire pressure down to 70 PSI which will allow more sidewall flexation. In exchange you will give up in minute amounts, the optimum mileage and some extra tire wear. To know what the differences are, should not depend on the advice of others. It is you who has to live with this expensive decision, and that can only be properly researched by you. | |
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Member
Posts: 8
| Thank you for the information - excellent points and I appreciate you sharing your insight and experience. By no means is this forum my only source of research. It is just another avenue to pursue information - I've found many threads on this site to be helpful thanks to the good folks, like yourself, that take the time to help those of us that are expanding our knowledge base. I find that practical experience from a wide variety of sources helps me better learn various points in such an important purchase as a horse trailer, not to mention learning new things to ask about when shopping that we might not have thought of before. There are so many things to consider when you are new to trailer shopping - it can be overwhelming! Yet, I think we all have the the ultimate goal to do what is the best and safest option for the horse - at least those are the folks I am interested in learning from. :) | |
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Member
Posts: 8
| So while I'm asking questions .....
My earlier options of "trailer A" and "trailer B" are both new, 2013 trailers. Priced the same.
I have found, again nearly the same as the others, a used trailer by about 7 years old making it a 2006. Since this is my first trailer, I do not know if getting new is the way to go since I believe Shadow comes with a 7 year warranty on new trailers.
The used trailer is a 6 lug, 16" tire with aluminum wheels (except for the spare which is steel) and there are windows on the dutch doors. I cannot remember off the top of my head the # rating on the two axles. However, the trailer used to haul a warmblood - for whatever that's worth. Has been sitting approximately a year and needs new tires as the tires are original to the trailer.
My question is: Do I save the $6,000 and buy the used trailer that is in good shape (then needing to spend approx. $1,000 on new tires, making my actual savings $5,000) or bite the bullet and buy the new trailer and spend the extra money but get a brand new trailer? Since the 2006 trailer is 7 years old, the factory Shadow warranty is completely gone, thus making me nervous since this is my first trailer. However, I do not know exactly what the value is of a factory warranty on a trailer and if people even use them. Can you get a used trailer inspected by a "dealer" or whomever as you would a preowned vehicle? $5,000 is a LOT of money to me but like I said before, I want to do this "right" and by no means not skimp on safety to save money or buy a "deal" that really isn't a deal because it's an old trailer that's near the end of it's lifespan and will need continual repairs that are out of warranty. Saving $5,000 off the top though fixes a lot of issues! Thoughts on buying used vs. new? Worth the savings to go 7 years older for nearly the same trailer as new? | |
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Axle weights, lug nuts, etc.
