|
|
 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
 
Location: Mena, AR | I have a 2007 3H 4-Star LQ that I recently purchased. It seems that when my anti-lock brakes kick in on my 2012 Chevy 2500 that the trailer brakes go crazy and the trailer starts bucking around. This only happens if I am stopping on uneven ground. Actually I am not sure that if it is the truck or the trailer that is doing the bucking. I've turned down the trailer brakes and that has not helped. This happen last night (again) when I was stopping on a rough road on a incline and it was pretty scary. I had to let up on the brake to make it stop. Should I have my truck breaks checked first or start with the trailer? I haven't had the problem without the trailer. I did not have this problem with my previous 2H 4-star GN. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3802
  
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | Does your new trailer have electric over hydraulic brakes? If so, the GM integrated brake controller may not be compatiable with the electric over hydraulic system... Does it do this with any other trailer? There may be something going on inside the trailer cord's male plug... I pull a 2006 4 Star 6 horse head to head with a 2011 GMC 3500 dually with the factory integrated brake controller and have never experienced the symptoms you are speaking of. All of my trailers, horse, hay and flatbeds have full electric brakes. Truck also has exhaust brake. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 37
| I had the same experience with a (new to me) 2000 Ford Pickup while pulling a 16 foot stock trailer. I had owned this trailer for several years, and pulled it without incident with a 1988 Chevy Pickup. As soon as I started pulling with the 2000 Ford, I immediately had reoccurring bucking problems while braking. Took the truck and trailer to the shop, all tested out fine. The only real difference we could find between old truck vs. new truck was that the Ford had a pendulum type brake controller. Despite repeated adjustments by the trailer dealer, we could never "smooth" the braking system out. We finally switched out the controller to a "timed" brake controller and the problem immediately vanished. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-04-29 2:12 PM
I have a 2007 3H 4-Star LQ that I recently purchased. It seems that when my anti-lock brakes kick in on my 2012 Chevy 2500 that the trailer brakes go crazy and the trailer starts bucking around. This only happens if I am stopping on uneven ground. Actually I am not sure that if it is the truck or the trailer that is doing the bucking. I've turned down the trailer brakes and that has not helped. This happen last night (again) when I was stopping on a rough road on a incline and it was pretty scary. I had to let up on the brake to make it stop. Should I have my truck breaks checked first or start with the trailer? I haven't had the problem without the trailer. I did not have this problem with my previous 2H 4-star GN. Confirm that all the trailer brakes are operating equally |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 170
Location: Minnesota | Sounds like you are "over driving" if your "anti-lock brakes kick in". They normally kick in when in a panic type stop. In the past 300,000 miles, i can't recall my kicking in. May need to slow down. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | The brakes are not hydraulic over electric. But, I did have a trailer with those brakes at one time, and it did pretty much the same thing. It was the controller that time. I am not over braking, I always start stopping well in advance, unless of course, someone pulls out in front of me right before a stop light. It does happen. LoL . I've been pulling trailers of all shapes and sizes for 15 years now. I asked my husband if he'd take a look at the brakes for wear and he said he would. I'll take the plugs apart and look for lose wires, then I guess a new brake controller if nothing is found. I wonder how you add a brake controller to a truck with an integrated controller in it? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | I called the Chevy dealer and they said it is an electronic brake controller and they could run a test on it to make sure it is functioning properly. Which I will do before I try and replace the controller in the truck. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 20
| I am just curious why you are braking hard enough that you are constantly on the antilock? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | I am not breaking hard. Just a normal stop. I haven't even put my foot down all the way on the brake before this happens. That is why this is so concerning. It does seem like the anti-lock is kicking in way before it should. Perhaps it is not the ant-lock kicking in, maybe it's something strange with the brake controller like what's been suggested. Or perhaps the anti-lock breaking needs to be adjusted on the truck? Or perhaps the brakes on the trailer need some sort of repair? I'm looking for ideas that I can check before I take it to the shop and spend $100 an hour to be told nothing is wrong. :-) |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | And to be clear, it does not happen with every stop. Only stops on rough, uneven surface. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 109
Location: Florida | Sounds to me your brake controller... Could be the unit or the way it is mounted. If it's a older unit, it must be mounted straight ahead and level or the level wheel (sorry dont know the name of it) set with the arrow pointing straight down. A guess on my part, but gives you something to look at. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2960
Location: North Carolina | Just a thought ... Can you duplicate the bucking with the trailer brakes disconnected? Be safe that is have enough distance to stop the trailer using the truck's brakes alone on uneven road surface. This test would eliminate the trailer brakes as a cause. Leaving the truck hitch, suspension, or brakes as a cause. I suspect an interaction between the built-in controller and the truck's brakes.
Edited by hosspuller 2013-04-30 3:19 PM
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 109
Location: Florida | ^^^ oops, missed the intergrated controller in her 2nd post. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 522
Location: Tucumcari NM | I had exactly the same problem this week. Took the rig to a trailer shop and found that a ground wire had broken. fixed the wire and the problem was solved. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 46
Location: Oklahoma | We had the same issue with a 24' gooseneck flatbed trailer we used to haul hay on. It was purchased new and was odd to pull. We thought it was our truck, but all the other trailers towed fine. We replaced the brake box, checked connections, had the electrical checked twice in the truck. Had the trailer wiring looked at twice and on the second trip we took them for a ride in the towing vehicle and trailer.. I wont repeat what they said when the brakes were hit and the truck went to bucking. It ended up being a short somewhere in the wiring. They rewired the whole trailer as they could not find an obvious short. Trailer works great now. It was dangerous to use loaded down with hay..... couldn't stop, pushed through intersections at 20mph cause the brakes weren't working and the antilock were and the trailer and truck were bucking... scary stuff. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Marla, did they say where the ground wire was broken at? The plug or at the brakes? I checked the trailer side plug last night, and it is in good shape. I'll get under the trailer and see if I can see any broke wires. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 522
Location: Tucumcari NM | The wire was broken back at the trailer axle. Ran an extra ground to each axle as a backup. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | I think I may have figure out my problem. The plug in my truck bed seems to be unreliable. My driver side tail lights were not working, so I plugged the trailer into the plug on the bumper, and they worked. So I messed with the plug in the bed, and my tail lights were working, but not my running lights, so I plugged it back into the bumper plug and everything works. The plugs on the 2012 Chevy are a "quick change" with the plug going into a socket on the harness that is on the truck. The connection between the plug and the harness is not very secure. I'm going to use the bumper plug for now, and replace the quick change plug in the bed with a hard wired plug. I just need to figure out what the wire color coding on the truck side is now. I think I'll wait till I have an afternoon with nothing else to do before I start that! LoL |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3802
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-05-28 11:15 AM
I think I may have figure out my problem. The plug in my truck bed seems to be unreliable. My driver side tail lights were not working, so I plugged the trailer into the plug on the bumper, and they worked. So I messed with the plug in the bed, and my tail lights were working, but not my running lights, so I plugged it back into the bumper plug and everything works. The plugs on the 2012 Chevy are a "quick change" with the plug going into a socket on the harness that is on the truck. The connection between the plug and the harness is not very secure. I'm going to use the bumper plug for now, and replace the quick change plug in the bed with a hard wired plug. I just need to figure out what the wire color coding on the truck side is now. I think I'll wait till I have an afternoon with nothing else to do before I start that! LoL Are you saying that your 2012 Chevy came with a plug installed in the bed from the factory..?? http://www.rverscorner.com/wiring/7pole.html |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | When I had the GN hitch installed (as part of the deal, the dealer made the arrangements) they put the plug in the bed. The truck did have the plug from the factory on the bumper (trailer package). There is an amazing wire harness under the truck that is a collection of plugs that goes to both the bumper plug and the plug in the truck bed. My guess is that the harness that came with the trailer package included the truck harness side for the bed. You plug this "quick change" plug into the harness once the hole is drilled in the truck bed. I'll have to take the truck side harness plug apart and map it to the 7-pin RV plug to know what color wire goes where on the new "standard" plug, and hope I get it right the first time. LoL. I understand why they did it this way for manufacturing purposes, but the design of the quick change plug leave something to be desired. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2615
| Our 2005 1T Dually Chevy Silverado does the very same thing,but,not on uneven ground.It does it when rolling to a slow stop,at a stop sign,etc.It feels like the trailer is trying to come off of the hitch.I put the same question on this website without much help or results,however.I'm glad you asked it for our reference,maybe we can solve the problem,now. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 7
Location: Pedricktown, NJ | I forgot which program I was watching when I the person who did a lot of trailering suggested when driving trailer, if you seem to be having issues, while you should have it checked out, while getting around with trailer to pump brakes a couple times before you come to the area of stopping that sometimes the electronic brakes may not be signaling 1 out of 1,000 times. We have issues on different trailers we pull with our truck, and yes we have after market electric brakes installed by trailer manufacturer, I've learned to be on the safe side and just tap the brakes a touch before coming to the stop, or going down hills. My husband thinks I'm goofy, but, I haven't had problems, knock on wood, so far. But of course you should have checked out professionally, and do as others suggest. This is just a little hint I heard from professional trainer who travels a lot with, God bless her, a bumper pull. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Well, using the other plug didn't solve my problem. So I'll be taking my trailer to the shop. I looked under the dash to see if I could figure out how to add an after market brake controller, but it is a a real maze under there. I will also try the suggestion of tapping the brakes before I need to actually stop. If they don't find anything at the shop, I'll see if they can add the after market brake controller. I'm also going to see if I can find someone with a different truck to tow the trailer and see if they can make it happen. I love this trailer, but this brake business is down right dangerous. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3802
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-06-02 11:13 AM
Well, using the other plug didn't solve my problem. So I'll be taking my trailer to the shop. I looked under the dash to see if I could figure out how to add an after market brake controller, but it is a a real maze under there. I will also try the suggestion of tapping the brakes before I need to actually stop. If they don't find anything at the shop, I'll see if they can add the after market brake controller. I'm also going to see if I can find someone with a different truck to tow the trailer and see if they can make it happen. I love this trailer, but this brake business is down right dangerous. Have you tried using the brake controller slide bar to stop? Will it do this bucking thing when stopping just using the trailer brakes..? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | I have not tried the slide bar on the break controller. I think I've found a stretch of road where I will be able to make it happen all the time, so I will try that. When the trailer is bucking, I really don't want to be taking my hands off the steering wheel, so I'll have to see if I have enough nerve to do that. LoL. I called the Chevy dealer about adding an after market break controller and they are checking to see which ones will work. I am taking the truck to the dealer on Tuesday (6/4) and they are going to check out the controller and the braking system on the truck. I've also got a call into the local trailer place I like to use to schedule an appointment for the trailer brakes to be looked at. I have a feeling this is about to get really expensive. Oh well... |
|
| |
|
 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385
Location: high desert, CA. | Has anyone mentioned the sensor on the wheels that signals the ABS?I fht sensor is not giving the computer the correct signals, the truck will buck like crazy. It is not hard to replace the sensors, and I have seen some folks have problems from just snow, or mud getting on the sensor, and it giving the signals crossed. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | ABS: Thanks. I'll ask them to check that while it's there. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Had the truck to the shop on Tuesday. They checked the controller and the ABS and found no faults being pulled by the systems. They also said that installing an after market brake controller was not a good idea as it would conflict with the integrated one. Some internet searching has turned up several approaches to install an after market controller, but it sounds like the system will pull errors that can't be worked around. I did take the trailer out and used just the slide bar for braking, and found that even when the gain was turned up all the way, the brakes where not fully engaged with the slide. They worked, but not enough to stop the truck & trailer. Never did get them to "lock". However, the higher the gain the worst the bucking when I applied the truck brakes on the rough road. Trailer goes to the shop on Monday. I'm hoping to be able to tow it with a friends truck this weekend. I don't understand what the difference is between using the slide on the brake controller and using the truck brakes? When you use the slide, only the trailer brakes work? |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2615
| Am I understanding this right when you say that they told you installing an after-market brake controller for the trailer was a "bad idea?" (Such as a Tekonsha,etc)? if so,are they nuts???
Edited by crowleysridgegirl 2013-06-06 2:04 PM
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Yes, installing an after market controller is considered a bad idea. My understanding is that the brake controller wiring in the newer trucks is tightly integrated with the truck braking system. There is not a way to separate the braking signal given by an aftermarket controller and the integrated one. Without seeing a wiring diagram I don't think I can fully explain this, but I get the general gist of it, and it sucks. What where they thinking? Hopefully the shop will find something wrong with the trailer. If not I'll be trying all of my friends different trucks to figure out which one will work with my trailer. LoL. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 489
| Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-06-06 1:23 PM
. I don't understand what the difference is between using the slide on the brake controller and using the truck brakes? When you use the slide, only the trailer brakes work? Correct when you use the switch on the brake controller on the trailer brakes engage not the tow vehicle brakes. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 16
Location: waller,tx | Check etrailer web page. it can be done, just run a new blue wire from the new brake contrroller. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 821
Location: Tenn/Ala. | It is fairly common to install an underdash controller in a truck with an Integrated unit. There are many trailers out where the E/H actuator will not work with the IC, particularly the GMs. One simply installs it and connects to the brake pin in the receptacle instead of the factory unit. We have always done it this way so the factory IC can be returned to service later if desired. If a body wanted to, I see no reason why a seperate plug in couldn't be run for a Prodigy and leave the IC alone also if so inclined- but we've not seen the need for this. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2615
| RT,could that be the problem with our truck and trailer? We have a 2005 1T Chevy and a Tekonsha brake controller. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2615
| Originally written by RTSmith on 2013-06-08 8:33 AM
It is fairly common to install an underdash controller in a truck with an Integrated unit. There are many trailers out where the E/H actuator will not work with the IC, particularly the GMs. One simply installs it and connects to the brake pin in the receptacle instead of the factory unit. We have always done it this way so the factory IC can be returned to service later if desired. If a body wanted to, I see no reason why a seperate plug in couldn't be run for a Prodigy and leave the IC alone also if so inclined- but we've not seen the need for this. I'm sorry if I sound stupid,but,here goes: are you saying that truck manufacturers expect their integrated systems to be enough to stop whatever trailer load a truck owner happens to have behind them? |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 7
Location: Pedricktown, NJ | Hi again, I think if you can't get this issue worked out, I really liked what the poster had to say in Post #151709 about taking the "sounded like trailer dealership" for a ride in the truck, and they finally determined that something wasn't right, and they ended up re-wiring the entire trailer. The thing of it is, you know what your doing, you said you have hauled for years with different set-ups and had not had these issues. You just bought this trailer, get them to fix the issue before things aren't under any type of warranty any longer. I believe it could be a case of bad wiring somewhere that just can't be detected with their systems. I'm sure you didn't spend the money to worry about having issues like this. I know the last thing I want on my mind when I'm going somewhere with my horse is getting them their safely. Of all the other things that we as equine owners worry about, the last thing you need to worry about is what your hauling them in. I think you are trying to do everything right... Just don't let anyone tell you it's just something you have to deal with. Really check out that earlier post again, as I'm sure you read it the first time.
P.S. I appreciate what you had to say about the truck manufacturers thinking that their systems should integrate with everything out their. As I'm looking to buy a new lq horse trailer, and have narrowed down my search to a possible 4 Star, I would really like to know how they handle this issue and/or what turns out to be the resolution or problem. I'm sorry I didn't really see if said you were hauling with a dually or single rear axle? Just for my own personal knowledge. Best of luck with this issue. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2615
| I'm glad they got THEIR ? answered,at least. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | I'm hauling with a single axle. The trailer was not bottoming out the truck, but I did add the Timbren Suspension to the truck. Keeps the truck from settling so low. I haven't had a chance to tow with another truck yet, but might get to do that this weekend. I took it to the shop, but they didn't get to it, so it goes back next Monday (6/17) evening. One thing and another came up and they couldn't get to it. It happens. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 821
Location: Tenn/Ala. | Originally written by crowleysridgegirl on 2013-06-08 10:17 AM
Originally written by RTSmith on 2013-06-08 8:33 AM
It is fairly common to install an underdash controller in a truck with an Integrated unit. There are many trailers out where the E/H actuator will not work with the IC, particularly the GMs. One simply installs it and connects to the brake pin in the receptacle instead of the factory unit. We have always done it this way so the factory IC can be returned to service later if desired. If a body wanted to, I see no reason why a seperate plug in couldn't be run for a Prodigy and leave the IC alone also if so inclined- but we've not seen the need for this. Â I'm sorry if I sound stupid,but,here goes: are you saying that truck manufacturers expect their integrated systems to be enough to stop whatever trailer load a truck owner happens to have behind them?
Sorry for the delay. I didn't see your reply.
What I am referring to is there are trailers out there with electric/hydraulic brakes that will not activate/work with the factory built in controllers. We just ran into a '12 GM the other day that didn't recognize when the trailer was hooked up- so it therefore wouldn't send any power back to the trailer. We installed a Prodigy P3 under the dash and all's well. The Tekonsha controllers seem to operate all of the electric/hydraulic units that I recall running across. |
|
| |
|
Location: Canada | My Bucking GM truck. I am having similar problems and wonder about the abs interaction with the integrated controller. 2011 k3500 DRW and a 2004 Jamco trailer. Trailer worked fine from new with my 2005 truck and only problem is with new truck. At first also had non-functioning left turn signal/brake light and thought it was linked.Trailer repair: Replaced plug and redid brakes.Truck (GM Dealer): Replaced both bed and bumper receptacles and redid connector under chassis. They said forward wiring is enclosed and integrated so nothing could be done.Right now: All lights work. No bucking on manual trailer brake activation. Bucking started 3 hours into journey and only occurs under more heavier braking. That's why I'm wondering about the abs. The dealers are very quick to say normal. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | My trailer is in the shop and I hoping to get it back this afternoon. If having the brakes serviced doesn't fix the problem I'll be looking for someone to put an after market brake controller in my Chevy 2500 HD. All of this troubleshooting got me more interested in towing capacities. I wanted to make sure I was not towing to much trailer. It took some searching but here is what I found out about the 2012 Chevy 2500 HD long bed Duramax. With a gooseneck hitch it can tow 17,800 lbs. It has a max pin weight of 3,500. The rear axle is rated at 6,200. The Truck combined max weight is (GVWR) 10,000 lb, and the truck weight between 5K & 6K depending on options. The max combined weight for truck & trailer is 24,500 lbs (GCWR). The max weight (GVWR) for my horse trailer is 14,750. So 6K (truck) + 14750 (trailer) = 20,750 lb. I found a truck scale that is on the way home from the trailer shop, so I'll be weighing my rig when I pick up my trailer. My guess is my combined weight is going to be around 16K without horses & hay. Well under the max for my truck. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Latest update. Trailer back from the shop and it's still bucking. The brakes and bearing are in excellent condition with 50% pads left. They checked all the wiring from the pigtail plug to the brakes. He told me I have 8,000 lb axles on the trailer.I took the trailer and got it weighed. Truck and trailer are 17,620 lbs together without horses and hay, but everything else, tack, water, etc... Max combined weight for the truck is 24,500 lbs. Just the trailer by itself is 10,140 lb, max GN tow weight is 17,500. Next thing to do is tow it with someone else's truck and see what happens. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-06-21 9:30 AM
Latest update. Trailer back from the shop and it's still bucking. The brakes and bearing are in excellent condition with 50% pads left. They checked all the wiring from the pigtail plug to the brakes. He told me I have 8,000 lb axles on the trailer.I took the trailer and got it weighed. Truck and trailer are 17,620 lbs together without horses and hay, but everything else, tack, water, etc... Max combined weight for the truck is 24,500 lbs. Just the trailer by itself is 10,140 lb, max GN tow weight is 17,500. Next thing to do is tow it with someone else's truck and see what happens. Whoever gave you that Max combined for a 2012 2500 Crewcab was being generous...read the following article http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2012/05/tow-ratings-adjust-for-2013-gm... You need to get your ACTUAL pin weight...AND HOPE your are NOT exceeding your Rear Axle rating...the other issue you need to check is to determine your trailer is LEVEL and not riding the rear axle at the expense of the trailer's front axle... |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | "The largest drop in tow ratings came in selected 2500 models with 5th-wheel and gooseneck hitches. For example, a two-wheel-drive regular-cab long bed with the Duramax diesel and 3.73:1 axle was rated at 17,800 pounds using a 5th-wheel hitch. For 2013, the rating drops to 14,400 pounds. A four-wheel-drive Extended Cab long bed with the diesel and a 3.73:1 axle saw its rating drop from 15,700 pounds to 10,900 pounds."
The above is from the article you posted, so the 17,800 for the GN is valid for the 2012. The change is weights is due to a change in standards.
With these new numbers anyone that tows anything at all will be buying a dually. :-)
I got the 17,800 number off of the Chevy website and it's listed above. But even at the 14,400 I'm still under. My truck is crew cab long bed duramax. Even if my actual pin weight is 25%, I'm still under the 3,500 lb pin weight and the 6,200 rear axle max. Any way, I towed my trailer with a F350 today, and it stopped just fine. I've got a Dodge 2500 short bed cummins lined up for a test tow in the next day or two, maybe tonight. If that works fine, I'm going back to the dealer to either get them to replace the IC brake controller or add an after market.
Remember that the truck/trailer stops fine on a smooth road, it is only on a uneven surface that I am having problems. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2960
Location: North Carolina | There is a fuse for the Chevy ABS. If it's pulled the ABS is disabled, but the regular brakes still function. If you suspect an interaction between the ABS and the trailer brake controller. Pulling This fuse will confirm or pass the ABS on bucking trailer issues. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Thanks for the info on the ABS fuse. I will look for it. My truck has diesel exhaust brakes and traction control buttons. Disabling these two features (by using the buttons in the cab) does not resolve the problem. I was pleased that I did not have the problem using another truck. I feel like I can get the issue resolved at some point now. I really like the trailer, the truck I'm not so pleased with these days. LoL |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Update: Pulled the trailer with a 2007 Dodge 2500 short bed cummins, no problems at all. Went to the dealer after they were not returning my phone calls, and talked with my service rep and the shop manager. At first the shop manager said there was nothing they could do. After I pointed out that the truck was not providing the intended use, and it was dangerous on uneven roads, he said to bring back the truck and trailer for a test drive. It will be a while before I can do that due to my work schedule. I asked about pulling the ABS fuses and the shop manager said not to do that. Hopefully after the test drive, they will be more helpful. Anyone in the north Dallas area have a 2011/2012 Chevy 2500 Durmax with an integrated controller that is willing to two my trailer for about 15 minutes? |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2960
Location: North Carolina | Refresh my memory ... Is the trailer bucking only on a rough road? I just remembered my trailer used to buck under heavy braking. I had the truck rotors turned and the issue went away. MY problem was the rotors had spots etched into them from not being used. The rotors rusted & pitted except where the pads protected the surface. This created spots of varying friction. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 203
Location: Lander WY | Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-06-21 9:30 AM
Latest update.......... They checked all the wiring from the pigtail plug to the brakes...... If I understand you correctly- maybe the shop didn't check "all" the wiring ?? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Yes, the bucking only happens on rough roads. It stops true on a smooth surface. When I pull it with a different truck(s) the problem goes away. So, I'm comfortable saying the issue is with the truck.
I did get up to the dealer on Wednesday with both the truck and trailer. The shop manager went with me on a test drive. We found a road to reproduce the problem on. He got in the bed of the truck and had me stop. He says the hitch in the truck bed in moving. He said it scared the *** out of him. The hitch was installed as part of the truck purchase. It is a B&W. The dealership contacted the hitch installer and I'm taking the truck in on Monday morning. When I talked to the hitch guy, he sounded pretty doubtful, but that we would inspect the hitch and tighten the bolts if needed. I also have some doubts on this, but it is all part of the process. I don't understand if the hitch is loose, then why doesn't it not happen all the time? So my trailer is grounded till after the hitch inspection. One thing I haven't done, which I will do after the hitch inspection is unplug the trailer from the truck (electrical) and do my test stop. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3802
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-07-04 10:15 AM
Yes, the bucking only happens on rough roads. It stops true on a smooth surface. When I pull it with a different truck(s) the problem goes away. So, I'm comfortable saying the issue is with the truck. I did get up to the dealer on Wednesday with both the truck and trailer. The shop manager went with me on a test drive. We found a road to reproduce the problem on. He got in the bed of the truck and had me stop. He says the hitch in the truck bed in moving. He said it scared the *** out of him. The hitch was installed as part of the truck purchase. It is a B&W. The dealership contacted the hitch installer and I'm taking the truck in on Monday morning. When I talked to the hitch guy, he sounded pretty doubtful, but that we would inspect the hitch and tighten the bolts if needed. I also have some doubts on this, but it is all part of the process. I don't understand if the hitch is loose, then why doesn't it not happen all the time? So my trailer is grounded till after the hitch inspection. One thing I haven't done, which I will do after the hitch inspection is unplug the trailer from the truck (electrical) and do my test stop. Well... What did you find out? I got two GM 3500 trucks and a 2500 GMC, (two with integrated brake controllers) several horse, stock, flatbed dump, etc. trailers and have never had any "bucking" issues... All the hitches are also tight to the frame, nothing moving except what suppose to move. Two of the hitches are B&W Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitches and one is an old Draw-Tite Remove-A-Ball Gooseneck Hitch....
Edited by retento 2013-07-10 11:33 AM
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | The hitch checked out. Not lose, installed correctly. I learned that the B&W bolt into factory holes in the truck frame for that purpose, so they are impossible to install incorrectly.I talked to the dealership. The next thing is I am going to do the test stop without the trailer plugged (electrical) into the truck at all and see if that makes a different. The dealer has agreed to look the truck brake rotors and pads. The hitch place said they could put in an after market brake controller. If the truck/trailer stops good without the electrical connection between the two, then that is what I will do.(install a different brake controller) I have also starting looking for a trailer of a similar size to tow with my truck to see what happens. I am really at a bit of a lost why I am having this strange problem. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3802
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | Does your trailer happen to have electric over hydraulic brakes? If so, the GM integrated controller doesn't like that system, not compatible... Alot of folks with electric over hydraulic have installed aftermarket brake controllers. A Tekonsha P3 Proportional brake controller would be a good choice if you're heading in that direction. Now... What was it that the GM service guy was seeing move/seemed loose/moved about, when going down the road, he said the hitch was loose on the truck's frame, hitch guy says it is all tight... Somebody's being a little careless with the truth there...!! |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | I took the trailer out for another test drive. This time I turned the gain on the controller down to zero and still had the bucking problem. Then I disconnected the trailer and did my stops on the rough surfaces, and no problem! Since I have towed the trailer with two other trucks that did not have the problem I feel like this tells me that problem is electrical, and not in the trailer. I called the dealer and said I would pay for a new brake controller, and asked if it fixed the problem, would they reimburse me for it? The service rep is checking with management and hopefully I will hear back from them soon. I'm still looking for trailer of a similar size to test tow with. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 203
Location: Lander WY | Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-07-18 11:09 AM
I took the trailer out for another test drive. This time I turned the gain on the controller down to zero and still had the bucking problem. Then I disconnected the trailer and did my stops on the rough surfaces, and no problem! Since I have towed the trailer with two other trucks that did not have the problem I feel like this tells me that problem is electrical, and not in the trailer. I called the dealer and said I would pay for a new brake controller, and asked if it fixed the problem, would they reimburse me for it? The service rep is checking with management and hopefully I will hear back from them soon. I'm still looking for trailer of a similar size to test tow with. After a long road- It sounds like you have closure. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | New integrated brake controller, at my expense, did not fix my problem. Chevy has no more ideas, and won't put an after market brake controller in it. So I'm fixing it with a new 2013 black Dodge SLT 4x4 1-ton single axle on Monday. I think the Dodge dealer in McKinney, TX is the only winner here. LoL |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 203
Location: Lander WY | Originally written by bjhouten on 2013-07-26 3:36 PM
New integrated brake controller, at my expense, did not fix my problem. Chevy has no more ideas, and won't put an after market brake controller in it. So I'm fixing it with a new 2013 black Dodge SLT 4x4 1-ton single axle on Monday. I think the Dodge dealer in McKinney, TX is the only winner here. LoL Good for you!! |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 720
| Congrats on the truck. Did we ever hear what kind of brakes are actually on the trailer in question? Electric drum, or some type of electric over hydraulic? And if EH, what brand of actuator? |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | The brakes are on the trailer are Electric Drum. I think the shop guy said they were Dexter axles, but not certain. He did say they are 8K axles however. He said something about the brakes being the bigger brakes, because of the 8K axles?, and when the time came to replace the assembly it would be pricy. But he also said they are in very good shape and should last a good long time. How would I tell what kind of actuator is there? I can also check the paper work on the trailer and see if the information is there. My thoughts on the Chevy is that there has got to be a short or a connector problem somewhere in the harness. I like the Chevy and would have been happy to keep it for a very long time if I didn't have the braking problem, which I think is limited to this truck, and not all Chevy's. Lots of people are towing with this truck with no problems.
Looking forward to getting my new truck on Monday and hitting the road again. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 720
| BJH- I was just asking as I have heard of some of the hydraulics having issues with certain trucks. But if yours are basic electric, there is no actuator and no way the trailer was causing your issues. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Got my new truck Monday afternoon and took it right home and hooked up to the trailer and took it for a test tow. No problems!! I'll admit I did have some concerns that I had overlooked something. So thrilled it just worked. The best news is that the owner manual says to break it in under heavy load, so I can tow right away. Dodge City in McKinney, TX was great. I worked with Brent. I drove 4 trucks and changed my mind at least 3 times, and he stuck with me. They gave me a good trade-in value for my truck and threw in the GN hitch at no charge, found some extra rebates and gave me a 2.9% interest rate. I was worried about getting a 4x4 because of the height, but the bed was the same height as my 2500, so no problems. It's got some cool multi-media features. Can connect my phone via Bluetooth and it downloads my address book and I can add favorite contacts for one touch dialing and voice dialing. Can change radio stations with voice commands. My husband is a knob guy so he was happy to see that the A/C and radio supports knobs as well as the touch screen. It has several exhaust breaking levels, and Smart Electric Breaking settings for hills and such. On the way home it was showing 26 mpg on the highway and towing was 12.5 mpg. A great start in that department also. I am so happy that I can safely tow and STOP my truck and trailer now. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2615
| Wow,glad that fix worked for you.would have been a pretty pricey thing had it not,and,we're not able to fix our problem with a new truck.I hope we can find the issue,too,because,a new truck is NOT the fix for us at this time.Dually paid for.Dont' want another payment book going around here. It is a scary feeling,I know what you mean.Ours did not always do this,either. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | I did not want to spend the money for a new truck. I owed very little on the 2012 Chevy 2500 and it was suppose to be my last truck purchase. (Yeah right) But I had to have a truck to use. I made a 100 mile trip this last weekend and it worked out really well. (I'm getting 13mpg on average towing, it goes up from there if I don't have to stop.) It's very scary not to be able to stop. Hope your able to solve your problem and don't have an accident in-between now & then. Seems like it would be helpful to have some sort of device that could be put in the ckt to tell what is going on.
Try towing with different trucks and a different trailer if you can. That will help narrow it down. |
|
| |
|
New User
Posts: 2
Location: San Juan Capistrano, CA | I wanted to share our experience. We have a 2011 GMC 3500 long bed dually. In 2011 we pulled a 4 horse Platinum, 14 foot LQ all across 8 states for 11 weeks and had no issues. The truck pulled like a dream. Fast forward to 2013, we sold the 4 horse trailer and bought a 3 horse, 12 ft, Logan LQ with slide. We had issues towing immediately. The trailer and truck would buck frequently and a couple times we had a violent episode while braking in traffic. Very Scary. Our dealer recommended to block the axles and raise the trailer (which is something we were going to do anyway as we go off road frequently). That didn't help. He then was recommending to put air bags on our truck and also suggested that our leaf springs were bad.My husband contacted Star Hitches and he offered a guarantee with his hitch. If it didn't work, he would take it back with full refund. http://www.sphitch.com/The guy at Star mentioned that different trucks and different trailers tow different and it all has to do with the "geometry" or physics of combining the two. I think he said something about GMC moving the hitch forward or back a couple inches and it caused some problems. We didn't want to buy a different truck as we really like our truck, so we tried the Star Hitch. I have to say we are extremely pleased with the result. It eliminated all of the bucking and it tows very nice now. We are happy customers. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3802
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | http://www.sphitch.com/ |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 560
Location: Mena, AR | Boy, I wish I had thought of this. Could have saved a bundle. But, I'm in love with my 2013 Dodge, so it ok. But I do miss my money. LoL |
|
| |
bucking trailer
;){kind=icon}