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 Member
Posts: 11
Location: Beautiful British Columbia | I just got a little 2012 Circle J all aluminum Runabout trailer, 2h BP. It has a relatively low deck (I will have to measure it), seems like maybe only 12-14" off the ground. Problem is that my truck is only a F150 2wd, so of course it's quite low too. When I put the trailer on the ball, the truck only sits down a couple of inches but the wheel on the jack is just too close to the ground. First thing I did was flip the hitch over and put the ball on top just to try it but of course that only helps raises the coupler a good 2". I need a few more inches from somewhere. I'm thinking a weight distribution hitch that's adjustable, so you can raise the ball higher. Also I'm thinking of stiffer shocks for the truck or even lifting it a BIT. The trailer is very nice and light (which is why I chose it) and the truck doesn't have trouble with the weight but we need to get the height fixed. Any suggestions? |
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Expert
Posts: 3802
      Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | The WDH should take care of the problem.... I too have a trailer that had the wheel on the trailer jack, hit a bump or cross a speed bump and it would strike the ground. I removed the wheel and replaced it with a foot on the end of the jack. Simular to the ones below.... Brought the end of the jack about 6" higher off the ground.
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Regular
Posts: 87
   Location: Williamsburg VA | The important element in adjusting the truck ball height is how level the trailer sits. Your trailer should be level or slightly higher in the front when loaded. If the wheel is to close to the ground when the trailer sits level, change out the wheel to a foot. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 807
    Location: Tenn/Ala. | It is customary when using a wheel on the jack, to have to remove it befoere driving. Most trailers will not get it high enough for safe travel.
As was mentioned before, make sure the trailer is level when loaded. That is what you need to guage to set your ball height.
Also- when you remove the wheel for travel, it takes just a sec, normally held on by a pin, crank the jack all the way up against the stop, or it can vibrate down during your drive until it hits the ground. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
       Location: western PA | We had the same problem with a BP trailer. When we bought it, we thought the jack wheel would be useful, and ordered it as an option. It quickly was replaced with the metal pad, and still sits unused in the barn. Once replaced, we had no more ground clearance issues. If the tongue weight is too heavy for your truck's suspension to support a level ride whilst underway, you can also consider an optional Timbren suspension aid. It is relatively inexpensive, requires no maintenance and will support the lighter suspensions that many half ton trucks exhibit. This is especially handy if you pull multiple trailers, or frequently use your truck for various loadings that would not involve a trailer. It will maintain a level ride regardless of the load. |
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 Member
Posts: 11
Location: Beautiful British Columbia | What a simple solution! I've never had a trailer with a wheel on the jack before so didn't even think about taking it off. I wouldn't mind helping the truck out a bit with the suspension too, probably a good investment in the long term. |
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 Member
Posts: 11
Location: Beautiful British Columbia | By the way, I thought I recalled reading somewhere that if you flip the hitch over it actually is rated for less weight - is that true? I'm referring to the simple draw bar type of hitch. Somehow it just doesn't look as strong when it's upside down. Does it change the physics somehow? |
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 Member
Posts: 11
Location: Beautiful British Columbia | Took the wheel off, cranked the jack all the way up and it sits and pulls nicely now (empty, anyway). I managed to find a Husky WDH locally the other day (used but like new) that has the right weight rating for me. Have watched a ton of videos on installing it but we have a couple of questions.1. The shank is L shaped. If we point it down, the top hole isn't quite high enough, but if we flip it over, the bottom hole is a bit too high (about 4" difference). Is the only solution to get a different shank (t-shaped)? There actually is room to drill one more hole which might solve the problem.2. What happens when you drive through a dip, over a curb or start up a ramp? Doesn't that put a lot of strain on the WDH? Of course you can't take it off or you'd bottom out. Do you just go slow and carefully? We live on an island so one day I'm going to have to take the ferry and the ramps can be a bit steep sometimes. And of course horse show grounds aren't noted for being particularly level. |
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