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New User
Posts: 3
Location: Cleveland OK | I just bought a 4year old Merhow Equistar 3H slant, that came with air conditioning and an awning. The DR is not finished at all and I would like to make some additions so I can take it out of state in the next month or so. My boyfriend will be doing the construction, in between his full time job, and building our house, so I need to have a plan on what we can get finished on weekends or evenings in between everything else. This is my first GN, and though I have scrolled through some past threads, I am a bit overwhelmed by them. Not sure what I need to have to accomodate the additions I want to make. I don't even know all that I don't know, but I think its a lot! I'm guessing the first thing we want to add is insulation. As far as I can tell, neither the horse area nor the DR are insulated and I am a big wuss about the cold. Is the foil-backed bubble insulation the best bet? We thought the spray foam might get dirty and not hold up. What kind of additonal wiring do I need, to accomodate a mini-fridge and a microwave? Does the wiring need to be done before the insulation? I tried using the back tack area to haul my saddles, and everything came out filthy and covered in dust and shavings. A friend suggested moving the saddle rack from the back tack area into the DR and bolting to the ceiling. Has anyone done this and is it a better option than installing a hanging saddle rack to the side wall? I would like to use the back tack area for hauling water/feed/hay etc. Any advice appreciated - I understand this is a process that will take a little time. Would just like to start out with the necessities (heat, electricity and storage) and add shelving and maybe a cowboy shower/portable toilet in the future. |
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 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 420
    Location: Iowa | Are you sure you want dirty stinky saddles & blankets in the DR area. Not to mention all the space it will take up. You don't mention the length of your short wall. Im sure a few of the guy's on here will point you in the right direction for doing your LQ. Or Do a thread search. |
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New User
Posts: 3
Location: Cleveland OK | Thanks for replying. I don't plan on leaving dirty saddle pads in the DR - I can always stick them in the back after they've been used. But I have a lot of money tied up in my saddles and try to keep them clean. Just wondering what the best option is for a saddle rack in the DR. No one else does this? Forgive me but I was hauling with a little BP stock trailer previously, so having the space and the options are new to me I don't want to make assumptions about them. Will I need a generator to run the fridge and microwave? What's a "gray water" tank? I assume it's different than the horse water tank. What's the best insulation for DR and horse area? As I said, I'm not sure what I need to start with - electrical or insulation. Sorry if this has been covered before. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
       Location: western PA | If you perform "SEARCH" under the topics you've asked about, you will find relevant answers and discussions. Expand the SEARCHES to a year from the indicated 30 days. |
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 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385
      Location: high desert, CA. | you might look at the site called;whinnycargo.comit had some good info on what and when as far as assembling your install. |
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Veteran
Posts: 140
  Location: NM | Saddle covers will help keep your saddles clean. I wouldn't want to add saddles to a DR/LQ if I could help it. |
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Regular
Posts: 98
   Location: MD | I started my conversion in August and finished late september but I can tell you emphatically that it'll be tough to do in a month if you're only doing it part time. The insulation and framing goes pretty quick but beyond that, you'll start dealing with walls that aren't square, arched ceilings and a tapering nose. I had a floor layout with measurements and cut-outs of how I wanted things to be built, a plumbing and electric plan, then a blueprint for cabinent and storage construction. Even then you'll encounter challenges that change your plans. You can get a lot of information from this site using the search as Gard suggested. That's what I did and wouldn't be able to figure a lot out without studying/researching every thread, site I could find and looking at LQ trailer interiors in the 4 sale section. Here's how my project turned out. It cost me about $3500 and a lot of blood, sweat and tears. http://www.horsetrailerworld.com/forum/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid=201 Good luck! |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 824
    Location: Kansas | Rydn Clyde-thanks for those photos. They answered a couple of questions that I didn't even know I had. Seeing the "deadmen" holding up your ceiling tiles was a real "aha" moment for me. Great job, great layout. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 342
    Location: MS | That came out really nice! Same size as my trailer. That said, my cousin and I built out a weekender in her 2 horse with a smaller shortwall. Insulated, covered the walls and ceiling, put in cabinets and floor and it took the two of us much longer than a month. I guess it was the whole summer, working on weekends and the odd weekday. It was a tough job for two old broads! |
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| mine to, took 6 months, after work and weekends thought it would go faster, the second one I did,but not. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 322
   Location: Fort Madison, Iowa | When I first got my trailer I had the same problem with the dust on my saddles so I caulked the seams and cracks inside the tack and I don't have problems with road dust anymore. |
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Regular
Posts: 73
 
| Someone else already suggested it, but I think it's important to draw up a plan. Try 1/4" graph paper and mark where you want electrical and plumbing (if any) to go. I used red highlighter to mark 110 volt outlet placement, blue to mark where battery connections would go. We ran the electrical and plumbing before we insulated, so that we could drill holes in the supports. Tape the wires to the upright supports, so they don't get hidden behind the insulation when you put that in. We used the blue insulation board to insulate our trailer. Cut the large pieces to fit snugly, and then use small pieces to fill in any odd-shaped spaces. Just run a piece of masking tape across the insulation, from one support to the next to hold the pieces in place.Not sure if anyone answered what a gray water tank is. It is the tank that holds waste water from your sink and shower. Black water is what comes from your toilet. If you don't want to install those waste holding tanks, our first trailer had a nice porta-potti, the sink and shower drained into a gray water pipe with a screw-on cap on the end. When we camped, we just sat a portable waste-water tank under the trailer, and connected it to the gray water pipe. |
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New User
Posts: 3
Location: Cleveland OK | Thanks so much for all the great suggestions - they are truly appreciated. Drawing up a plan on paper is an excellent idea to start! |
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