check engine light
jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-10 1:44 AM (#146917)
Subject: check engine light


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I have an '02 GMC 2500, 4x4 Duramax diesel. The check engine light comes on when in towing up-hill. Anyways, after un-hooking trailer and starting truck up later, the light goes off. Doesn't come back on again until towing up the hill. Called dealership and they want $300- just to hook it up to the diagnostic machine! Is this crazy or is that what people are paying for this!??  I am the second owner of this truck and had the Glow plugs all replaced and all the fluids changed. Fuel injectors are original as far as I know. There is no white smoke coming out of tail pipe when I start it and no "pinging" sounds coming from the engine. (Which is what I was told  would happen if it was an injector) It does however shoot out black smoke when I "get on it" (passing gear or up-hill) I just had the fuel filter changed and the black smoke is nowhere near as bad as it was before.(again..black smoke only in passing gear)A friend hooked it up to their "diagnosis machine" and it read a 1093 code which is "fuel rail system". Any ideas what it could be? Could it possibly be just 1 injector or what? A friend of mine has an '05 that she had to have just 1 injector replaced. But..she said she could hear "pinging". And told me, " you will know when an injector goes".

Also, while in tow haul mode, tranny is not shifting until it gets to the 2.5 RPM. Is this normal? It sounds like it is not shifting when supposed to. This is between the speeds of 30-50 MPH that it does this. Only the up-shift though. The down-shift is fine. And this is ONLY in tow haul mode that this is happening.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-10 1:52 AM (#146918 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Forgot to mention that the black smoke that is emitted when in passing gear... It only happens once a day as if it just needed the pipes to blow out residue for the day. So, doesn't do it again on the same trip.
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captclank
Reg. Feb 2006
Posted 2012-09-10 6:19 AM (#146919 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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You may want to check the formums at www.dieselplace.com search your year and model for threads. I have found this site to be very helpful with my Duramax questions.
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genebob
Reg. Nov 2007
Posted 2012-09-10 11:35 AM (#146921 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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I can only answer about the shifting. That is what "tow/haul" does. It lets the engine get higher RPM's before shifting to save the tranny from lugging down to much and causing damage.
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Painted Horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2012-09-10 2:21 PM (#146922 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light



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Black smoke on a diesel is just unburnt fuel being exhausted. That is why it is so common to see on Tuned engines where the injectors are turned up to higher levels.  The newer the engine the better the computer and injectors are at giving the exact amount of required fuel and not injected excess that turns up as black smoke.  Couple that with the Diesel Particulate Filters that were installed on all diesels after 2008 and you see very little black smoke on modern diesel engines. A bad inector can cause black smoke, because it is feeding too much fuel, but it is not the only cause of black smoke.

Tow/Haul, will cause the transmission to hold gear longer,. Keeping your engine in higher RPM for the extra power needed while towing.  So yes it is expected to see your tranny not shift at lower rpms like you would when your truck is empty.

If you know the DTC Code, Just call your service advisor and ask what causes it and what the estimated repair is. I have not had any check engine lights in two years since I bought my 2011 F350, But I had called several times on previous trucks and found the service advisor very helpful in telling me what the code ment and what the probable repair would be. It's part of developing a relationship with your service advisor. On several cases, I just came in and bought the parts and did the repair myself. No hard feelings with the advisor for telling me what the code was and how to fix it.

As far as paying $300 to hook up and read the code. You can buy several products that will read the code for you for that price. I use the Edge Insight on my truck (they sell for about $300). Acts as an extra guage most of the time, displaying oil and transmission temps.  But if I ever see the check engine light it will display the codes and even clear a code if I need it cleared. When I had a HPOP failure on my 2006 6.0L engine, Truck was dead, Would not start. Called my service advisor and gave him the code that the Edge Insight had retrieved. He told me what the problem was and suggested I clear the code and start the truck and drive it in for repairs.  I cleared the code, Truck then started, I was able to take my trailer home and then drop the truck off at the dealership for repairs, A whole lot better ending that having a tow truck come get me and worrying about how to get my trailer home.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-10 6:29 PM (#146927 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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I did call the service department at the dealership with the code reading and all they said was bring it in so that they could hook it up to their diagnostic machine, charge me the $300- and then tell me what they find. Even though I told them we got a code 1093, they told me it could be a number of different things. Then they told me to wait until the engine light stays on permanently to bring it in? That the reading might not be good until the light is on "fixed". Well, I can't tow my trailer until then???
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AZgrulla
Reg. Jan 2009
Posted 2012-09-10 10:16 PM (#146930 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light



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We have a '99 Chevy (preDuramax) and have gotten various codes. Finally, we traced it to the Turbo...wastegate solenoid). I have learned a lot from www.thedieselplace.com A lot of knowledgeable people on those forums...just like here. Good luck. oh, we had similar 'symptoms' as you were describing.
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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-10 10:33 PM (#146931 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-10 1:44 AM

I have an '02 GMC 2500, 4x4 Duramax diesel. The check engine light comes on when in towing up-hill. Anyways, after un-hooking trailer and starting truck up later, the light goes off. Doesn't come back on again until towing up the hill. Called dealership and they want $300- just to hook it up to the diagnostic machine! Is this crazy or is that what people are paying for this!??  I am the second owner of this truck and had the Glow plugs all replaced and all the fluids changed. Fuel injectors are original as far as I know. There is no white smoke coming out of tail pipe when I start it and no "pinging" sounds coming from the engine. (Which is what I was told  would happen if it was an injector) It does however shoot out black smoke when I "get on it" (passing gear or up-hill) I just had the fuel filter changed and the black smoke is nowhere near as bad as it was before.(again..black smoke only in passing gear)A friend hooked it up to their "diagnosis machine" and it read a 1093 code which is "fuel rail system". Any ideas what it could be? Could it possibly be just 1 injector or what? A friend of mine has an '05 that she had to have just 1 injector replaced. But..she said she could hear "pinging". And told me, " you will know when an injector goes".

Also, while in tow haul mode, tranny is not shifting until it gets to the 2.5 RPM. Is this normal? It sounds like it is not shifting when supposed to. This is between the speeds of 30-50 MPH that it does this. Only the up-shift though. The down-shift is fine. And this is ONLY in tow haul mode that this is happening.



So what codes does it show?
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-11 12:41 AM (#146932 - in reply to #146921)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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ok-thanks Genebob. I was wondering about that. This is my first diesel and still learning the Allison tranny.
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-11 12:49 AM (#146933 - in reply to #146930)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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AZgrulla,

 Thanks, I will try the dieselplace forums.

 Did your truck make any sounds that you could identify with the turbo solenoid? I do hear every once in a while...usually when the truck is cold, a whining sound? Like the radiator fan or a blower of some kind is coming on and then goes off. And I don't think it is the radiator fan either...it's just what it sounds like though. It doesn't do this all the time though but it is usually when I first start the truck up and then drive off.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-11 12:51 AM (#146934 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Also, I read my manual and it says not to let the truck warm up for too long? Like more than 2.5 minutes? I always thought that diesels should be given time to 'warm" up before driven off? How long do you all let your diesels warm up before you drive off?
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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-11 12:51 PM (#146939 - in reply to #146934)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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if you are going to own a diesel...you better own an ODB II scanner as well...here's an example... http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3111-OBD-Scan-Tool/dp/B003MS29MO And here is the GM driving cycle... http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html
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tim62988
Reg. Aug 2012
Posted 2012-09-11 5:21 PM (#146940 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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call a different dealer.

I used to live less than a mile from a chevy dealer but their service is about what you are describing.  I called the GM dealer 30miles away and they are always better

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-11 7:05 PM (#146943 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Unfortunately it is the GMC dealer i go to.
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Jeepplr
Reg. Oct 2007
Posted 2012-09-14 3:02 AM (#146975 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Code 1093 from what I can see is: P1093: Fuel pressure low during power enhancement

I got that from here: http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/911-problems-forum/1164-check-engine-light-dtc-1093-a.html 

Hope it helps.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-14 7:06 AM (#146977 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Thanks Jeeppir. That is what I was afraid of, and of course it is no longer under warranty too right? It has only 84k on it. Ughhh. Well, it just sits now cause I don't have the money to get it fixed.

I don't have any smoke or smell of oil in the diesel though. At least not yet? Or is it diesel in the oil? Just had a friend change out the fuel filter and there is black something on the old filter. He tore into the old one to see if he could find pieces of metal or what not. He doesn't think it is oil though(on the filter)What else might it be?

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equinetransport
Reg. Aug 2008
Posted 2012-09-14 8:05 AM (#146978 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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You don't say what you have for a trailer. You don't say how hard the trailer is to tow (some trailers just create a lot of drag). You don't say how steep the hills are.

But my guess is that your truck is starving a bit for fuel because of the drag going up hill (it wants to gulp and only sips are coming through). You might be lugging the engine. Dropping a gear might work. Slowing down and dropping a gear might work.

More likely then not, however, this isn't a big deal. You're overloading the fuel system in your truck during uphill runs, causing the computer to spit out an angry message at you (the computer is more sensitive then the driver). I had a trailer/truck combination that did that for years. Just meant I had to plan hills a bit more carefully then normal. Without more going on then you're describing, I won't lose any sleep over it.

Best of luck,

Jim Clark-Dawe
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Painted Horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2012-09-14 8:10 AM (#146979 - in reply to #146934)
Subject: RE: check engine light



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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-11 5:51 PM

Also, I read my manual and it says not to let the truck warm up for too long? Like more than 2.5 minutes? I always thought that diesels should be given time to 'warm" up before driven off? How long do you all let your diesels warm up before you drive off?

The engine will actually warm up faster if you just drive.  No hard acceleration, no racing, just drive.

On mine, I can have the engine coolant warmer with 1 minutes of driving than I can with 10 minutes of idling. So start the engine, let it idle long enough to get the oil pumping and circulating and then drive. By getting a little turbo boost going, Your combustion temps will climb dramatically which will heat the engine block much faster, The coolant is working at cooling the block and you will see your coolant temps climb much faster.

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Painted Horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2012-09-14 8:17 AM (#146980 - in reply to #146977)
Subject: RE: check engine light



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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-14 12:06 AM

I don't have any smoke or smell of oil in the diesel though. At least not yet? Or is it diesel in the oil? Just had a friend change out the fuel filter and there is black something on the old filter. He tore into the old one to see if he could find pieces of metal or what not. He doesn't think it is oil though(on the filter)What else might it be?

Diesel engines produce soot.  The oil that you use in a diesel engine is designed to carry a high load of soot in suspension and still provide lubrication.  That is why you don't use the same kind of oil that you would use in a gas engine. Make sure the oil you use is designated for a diesel engine. New oil goes into the engine with a golden color and will turn BLACK very quickly.  After 5000 miles everything in the oil filter will be black from the soot carried in the oil.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-14 8:17 AM (#146981 - in reply to #146978)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Equinetransport,

I have an '06 2-horse all aluminum Classic trailer ( gooseneck)It weighs with nothing in it 4400. So, nothing for my truck to pull with 1 horse and my camping gear. I'm not losing power up-hills yet..well it is slowing down a little but if I press the pedal it goes. Anyways, No bad sounds...just that annoying "service engine soon" light comes on, on the hills. These are slight hills, nothing major. No ruff engine ride yet anyways.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-14 8:21 AM (#146982 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Wow- that dieselplace website is going to take me a while to learn to navigate!!! Just signed as a member...at least i got that far!
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equinetransport
Reg. Aug 2008
Posted 2012-09-14 9:11 AM (#146983 - in reply to #146981)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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I'm going to use all caps, not because I'm shouting, but so you can see my response to each line of yours.

Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-14 8:17 AM

Equinetransport,

I have an '06 2-horse all aluminum Classic trailer ( gooseneck)It weighs with nothing in it 4400. IN THEORY, YOU'RE RIGHT. REMEMBER THAT WEIGHT NEEDS TO BE COMBINED WITH THE DRAG THROUGH THE AIR. YOU TOW AN 8-6 WIDE AND 12 HIGH TRAILER THAT DOESN'T WEIGH MUCH AND YOU'LL SEE A DROP IN GAS MILEAGE BECAUSE THE AIR DRAG IS SO HIGH. PERSONALLY, I PREFER HEAVY TRAILERS WITH LOW AIR DRAG FOR GAS MILEAGE. YOU CAN ALSO GET BRAKE DRAG, BEARING DRAG, OR WHEEL DRAG FROM THE TRAILER. FIND SOMEONE WHO'S HAULED A LOT OF DIFFERENT TRAILERS AND ASK HIM/HER TO HAUL YOUR TRAILER WITH THEIR TRUCK. SEE WHAT THEIR REACTION TO IT IS.

So, nothing for my truck to pull with 1 horse and my camping gear. I'm not losing power up-hills yet..well it is slowing down a little but if I press the pedal it goes. THE COMPUTER IS MORE SENSITIVE THEN YOU ARE. OR ANY HUMAN. THE PARAMETERS THAT ARE SET WITHIN IT ARE DESIGNED TO REALIZE PROBLEMS BEFORE THEY BECOME NOTICEABLE TO YOU.

Anyways, No bad sounds...just that annoying "service engine soon" light comes on, on the hills. YOU CAN HUNT AROUND FOR THE REAL DIESEL MECHANIC IN YOUR AREA. MOST OF THE DEALERSHIPS HAVE CLUELESS TWITS, AND IF YOU ASK AROUND ENOUGH, YOU'LL FIND THE GUY WHO KNOWS DIESELS INSIDE AND OUT. IT COULD BE SOMETHING SUBTLE LIKE YOUR FUEL PUMP NOT DELIVERING FULL FUEL PRESSURE UNDER LOAD. TESTING IT AT IDLE AND THE FUEL PUMP WILL BE FINE, SO 9 OUT OF 10 MECHANICS WON'T FIND THIS. (BEEN THERE, DONE THAT) OF COURSE, YOU CAN ALWAYS WAIT FOR THE FUEL PUMP TO GO FAR ENOUGH SOUTH THAT ANY IDIOT CAN FIGURE IT OUT. IT WON'T DO ANY HARM TO YOUR ENGINE.

These are slight hills, nothing major. SOME SMALL HILLS ARE WORSE THEN THE ROCKIES BECAUSE OF THE SLOPES AND THE INABILITY TO GET A RUN AT THEM.

No ruff engine ride yet anyways.

IF I'M NOT NOTICING A PROBLEM, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DOESN'T EXCITE ME TOO MUCH. I CAN SEE THAT DOWN THE ROAD, THIS MIGHT GET WORSE. BUT PROBABLY NOTHING THAT WILL HARM THE ENGINE.


Best of luck,

Jim Clark-Dawe
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Z71
Reg. Oct 2004
Posted 2012-09-14 2:16 PM (#146994 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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You should be able to get an auto supply place to read your code for free, like Auto Zone or someplace like that. When my truck done what it sounds like yours is doing it was my catalytic converter starting to plug up, replaced it and the truck ran fine.
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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-15 12:34 AM (#146996 - in reply to #146975)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by Jeepplr on 2012-09-14 3:02 AM

Code 1093 from what I can see is: P1093: Fuel pressure low during power enhancement

I got that from here: http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/911-problems-forum/1164-check-engine-light-dtc-1093-a.html 

Hope it helps.




A 1093?...If your truck is stock, ie NOT CHIPPED, then Replace the fuel filter first and Reset the code...and see if that solves your problem...
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-15 7:47 AM (#146998 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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I did just have the fuel filter replaced. But... how do I re-set the computer? And yes, it is all stock, no chips.
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Painted Horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2012-09-15 8:54 AM (#146999 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light



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Most of the devices that will retrieve and display the code will also delete and reset the code.

 

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siseley
Reg. Jul 2006
Posted 2012-09-15 11:12 AM (#147001 - in reply to #146998)
Subject: RE: check engine light



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Ok, I will go out on a limb here, and put up something most folks don't know.IF you run biodiesel at a mix of over 5%, and have never run bio before, you MAY HAVE cleaned out your fuel lines and tank of all the crud, and all the algae. This will plug your filters VERY quickly. Ask me how I know this? Past experience!! My truck is a Dodge, with the 5.9 Cummins, and I do have a "fass" fuel pump now. I also went with a "cat" type dual filter setup, that filters down to 2 microns. If you did not know, your diesel requires very clean fuel supply, and with the extremely high fuel pressures used today, ( upwards or 30,000 PSI), damage can be swift, and VERY expensive. So changing your filters at 3000 miles, and getting your oil analyzed by someone like "Blackstone", will tell you loads about your power plant.
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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-15 11:25 AM (#147002 - in reply to #146998)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-15 7:47 AM

I did just have the fuel filter replaced. But... how do I re-set the computer? And yes, it is all stock, no chips.


How long ago??

And which filter did you use??

I am NOT a fan of Wix filters...I use only the AC DELCO units

Also a tank of dirty fuel can crap out a fuel filter in a very short time...and I'm assuming that you did NOT drain your tank so that fuel is still there to cause problems...:(

Also...Check the water separator sensor

Also...you could have a return rate test should be performed just to make sure the injectors are not returning too much fuel ,resulting in a low fuel pressure reading. 16 ml per bank Max.35-38 API specific gravity 20 ml max 39-42 Ap specific gravity. If that is good then it is definitely the pump.

Fuel filter vacuum should be 3 1/2 "- 4 1/2 " max at idle ,If it is higher then the problem is in your supply side . Fix that first, then recheck the high pressure side max fuel pressure. has to reach 160 MPA. If it can't get the fuel volume to the pump the pump can't build the pressure.(like sucking air, pump cavitates)


But I'm still betting on a bad tank of diesel and the fuel filter...the cheapest solution...:)
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siseley
Reg. Jul 2006
Posted 2012-09-15 11:32 AM (#147003 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light



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Also, oil does not wear out.It gets contaminated, and full of the soot and acids from combustion. It also loses it's additives, which keep the soot, particulates, and junk in suspension, as well as combat the effects of acids and deposits. Changing your oil filters more frequently than your oil is one way to cut down on soot and particulates, but won't help with additive loss. Many fleets run their oil for 15,000 miles, and change the filters more often. Remember, a big block diesel uses mass amounts of oil to change. And, 8-10 GALLONS, at say $25.00 a gallon....yeah, pretty expensive, not to mention that oil has to go to be re-refined! Filters can be bought pretty inexpensively by shopping around, and finding the best suppliers. My Dodge uses a filter that most Cummins and big rig places stock, and at a much cheaper cost than the "Stealerships" charge. Also, some filters are better at removing the "junk" from your oil, or fuel. I use Baldwin filters, and Cummins says they are good for my rig. Do NOT overlook your AIR filter. If you are pumping mass amounts of air in conjunction with a turbocharger, ( and you are), it must be clean, and not collapsed. ( Some filters do NOT stand up to the massive amounts of air that a diesel gulps) In particular, some of the aftermarket ones with "clean/wash/and re-oil! Too much oil, and you suck it into your intake, they also are famous collapsing and allowing chunks from the media to go through your turbo.....good by turbo! ( as much as $3,000 !!!!) ( ask me how I know!)
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-15 2:57 PM (#147005 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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The fuel filter just got changed a week ago. Yes, it was an AC Delco fuel filter. I had to go to the dealership to get it since no one around here sells them. Have fueled up 1 since then but this has been going on for a month now? Maybe more. Had the oil changed at the same time. It is running much better and def can tell the difference since the fuel filter got changed out. Almost thinking it didn't get changed out the last time even though I asked for it to be done while the oil was getting done. Cause it had to have only been 5k in-between since I had it changed out before this last time.

Paul... will do all that you suggested. Thanks! Will let you know.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-15 2:58 PM (#147006 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Oh-forgot to mention.... no bio-diesel. Regular diesel here.
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-15 3:02 PM (#147007 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Oh-....another mention. I get fuel at Chevron cause I have a gas card there. I know it is expensive but my truck smells so much better with their fuel. When I go to USA or 76 it stinks bad! But, I did go to 76 to fuel up maybe 2 times. Wonder if that is my problem like Paul said. Bad fuel and I should drain the tank?
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siseley
Reg. Jul 2006
Posted 2012-09-16 10:00 AM (#147012 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light



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This sort of directed to everyone.Filling up with diesel is usually safest, if you go to a place that services a lot of big rigs. ALL stations use filters, and are supposed to use water seperators, BUT....stations that move a lot of diesel, are not as LIKELY to have stale fuel, or have condensation problems. If you use biodiesel especially, it is hydrophilic..that means it absorbs water easily, so keep and eye on your water seperator, and drain it weekly. Draining takes less than 5 minutes, and can save you a detonated engine. Biodiesel is also a great cleaner of your fuel lines and tank. It WILL cause you to plug up your filters, if you have not run bio a lot in the past. especially high concentrations like over 15% bio to 85% #2dino. Keep your tank full also if possible, that way water won't condense in the tank as it heats during the day, and cools at night.
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DLM-10
Reg. Jun 2008
Posted 2012-09-17 8:40 PM (#147034 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Good information given by everyone. I have a 2002 2500hd also and have an injector going bad white smoke at idle, that conversation for another time.

 This post reminded me of one I read about a 5th wheel camper with similar problem and only occured with trailer hooked up. Had to dealer several times - long story short there are some flexible sections of fuel line on the supply side that can colapse and only cause problems under high demand for extended time (pulling hills with trailer).

These trucks don't have any kind of supply pump in the tank to push fuel to the front. The cp3 unit pulls all the fuel to the front, therefore any restriction cause a drop in rail presure.

Someone mentioned the airdog system which is a pump and filter setup that helps push fuel to the front and would probably fix your problem even if lines are marginal. These add on pumps usually push 8-12 psi of fuel to the cp3 unit and makes its job much easier.

The duramax forum has a lot of information also.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-25 12:48 AM (#147197 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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ok...I took truck back to the dealership cause I hauled  the horse to the vet the other day. This time my truck had no power going up the hill and it was riding rougher than usual and louder. Dealership called and said they want to change out the injectors...that they are pretty sure that is what it is. Ok- you ready for this.......$5200-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First of all, it was a diesel technician and not a mechanic! There is a difference right??????  So I asked what injectors were bad. They couldn't tell me!! Well, that would take a deeper look at everything he tells me. So now, I have paid $300- for the diagnostic and the truth of it is....they don't even know if it is the injectors!!!!!!! He said they did a pressure test on it and it was showing a return of 16#? and it should be at around 50-60#??? Still, it starts up no problem and there is no white smoke coming out the tail pipe. Then the engine light goes off as soon as I turn truck off and disconnect the trailer and re-start the engine later. So, I told them to put it back together that I will be picking it up the next day. So, now I am looking for a good diesel mechanic other than the dealership to look at it.

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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-25 10:40 AM (#147203 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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The suction side of the fuel system can cause this if a hose is pinched/kinked. The same exact trouble codes will set because the pump cannot get fuel PIP 4526 bulletin explains this from GM . Check all the rubber lines( cut off the outer foam cover to inspect) .The most likely one to kink is the hose from the fuel injection control module to the fuel filter inlet on rt side of engine. Check all rubber lines, from tank to engine.If you can have someone hook up a bidirectional scan tool where they can control fuel pressure. Have them ramp up the pressure to 160 MPA ( 2250 psi )If it reaches this pressure then the pump is not your problem.Check you area for a diesel mechanics...post over on http://www.dieselplace.com/index.php? http://www.duramaxforum.com/ http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/ for a local service rep
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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-25 10:48 AM (#147204 - in reply to #147197)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-25 12:48 AM

ok...I took truck back to the dealership cause I hauled  the horse to the vet the other day. This time my truck had no power going up the hill and it was riding rougher than usual and louder. Dealership called and said they want to change out the injectors...that they are pretty sure that is what it is. Ok- you ready for this.......$5200-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First of all, it was a diesel technician and not a mechanic! There is a difference right??????  So I asked what injectors were bad. They couldn't tell me!! Well, that would take a deeper look at everything he tells me. So now, I have paid $300- for the diagnostic and the truth of it is....they don't even know if it is the injectors!!!!!!! He said they did a pressure test on it and it was showing a return of 16#? and it should be at around 50-60#??? Still, it starts up no problem and there is no white smoke coming out the tail pipe. Then the engine light goes off as soon as I turn truck off and disconnect the trailer and re-start the engine later. So, I told them to put it back together that I will be picking it up the next day. So, now I am looking for a good diesel mechanic other than the dealership to look at it.

Do I read that the check engine light only comes on when you push the tow/haul mode button?? This might be due to the computer programming locking up or a faulty shift solenoid that is not releasing. If the transmission fluid is dirty then any debris in the transmission can cause this. I would have the transmission flushed if that has not been done recently. I would still have the computer scanned for codes.
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-25 4:39 PM (#147212 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Hi Paul,

Yes the tranny was just flushed recently this year. I had all the fluids flushed and changed out by the dealership at $1000-

I am picking the truck up from the dealership today and am looking for a local diesel mechanic as we speak.

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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-25 7:36 PM (#147218 - in reply to #147212)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-25 4:39 PM

Hi Paul,

Yes the tranny was just flushed recently this year. I had all the fluids flushed and changed out by the dealership at $1000-

I am picking the truck up from the dealership today and am looking for a local diesel mechanic as we speak.

Another option is look around the area for the GM dealer that sells the most diesels, because they "normally" have the best diesel mechanics...Without any more codes...I'm out of ideas...:(
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equinetransport
Reg. Aug 2008
Posted 2012-09-25 8:35 PM (#147222 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Location: 03303
If your injectors are bad, the price isn't out of line for a dealership. They're an expensive part with a lot of work to change them out. And the problem you're describing could be bad injectors, and it's a problem that doesn't show up with white smoke.

Your diesel is designed with a lot of excess power. That's why you can accelerate a 10k trailer up Donner Pass. Reason this matter to you is fuel supply that's actually getting into your cylinders. You can ideal along on the flat hauling a trailer and maybe use only X amount of fuel (let's say 25% of full power). Going uphill, you start using more power, or X+ amount of fuel (let's say 75% of full power).

But if something is partially blocking your fuel from getting into the cylinders, your engine doesn't have the fuel it needs for maximum power, and the check engine light comes on. If the lack of fuel is even more noticeable, you have a loss of power and a rough engine. But reduce the fuel demand (going downhill, getting back on the flat, or idling), and your engine will run fine. It's back to only needing the 25% of full power.

Now this could be a fuel line kink, bad fuel filter, bad fuel pump, or the injectors. It sounds like the technician or mechanic (same thing) thinks it's the injectors. It could be that they're partially plugged, or some other problem, where the injectors are allowing some fuel through, but not enough for maximum power. Standard answer from a mechanic in that situation is to replace the suckers.

However, you could try running some injector cleaner (Lucas is good) through your tank. Biodiesel is another option. (This might kill your fuel filter, however.)

But the biggest thing is get away from the dealerships. The vacuum pump on my F-250 died. Dealership wants $250 for the part. Autozone is $150. Both are going to take as long to get it to me.

Find a diesel shop where you can trust the mechanic. Also, go to the Duramax forum on the internet. There are guys there putting 100k miles on their trucks each year. They know the good shops and might be able to recommend one to you.

But unfortunately, I'd be getting ready to bite the bullet on this one. There's a good possibility the tech is right.

Best of luck,

Jim Clark-Dawe
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-26 12:29 AM (#147226 - in reply to #147218)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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I got the truck back today and looked at the mechanics notes and I am not sure if he (mechanic) wrote the wrong code down or a typo? but it says a code of 0193? Well, I was told earlier the code read a 1093. So, when I wake up tomorrow, I will be making a call to the dealership cause now I am not sure what the correct code is. (I picked the truck up after everyone had left already)
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-26 12:32 AM (#147227 - in reply to #147222)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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equinetransport,

That is what I will do when I wake up.....call around for a diesel mechanic. Had the local horsemans meeting last night. I asked around who everyone uses and got a couple recommendations so will go from there. Thanks all!

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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-26 11:53 AM (#147241 - in reply to #147226)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-26 12:29 AM

I got the truck back today and looked at the mechanics notes and I am not sure if he (mechanic) wrote the wrong code down or a typo? but it says a code of 0193? Well, I was told earlier the code read a 1093. So, when I wake up tomorrow, I will be making a call to the dealership cause now I am not sure what the correct code is. (I picked the truck up after everyone had left already)
P0193 - fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high inputSounds like wiring.
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-26 4:09 PM (#147253 - in reply to #147241)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Paul,

could this wiring be under or near either of the batteries? I just had to change out the batteries even though they were only 3 years old because they were bad batteries (bigfoot- from Big O' Tires) They were leaking all over the place. both of them.

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snoweary
Reg. Mar 2008
Posted 2012-09-26 5:56 PM (#147259 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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I don't know if the Duramax's are the same, but, when I had a bad injector in my F250, the dealership did a cylinder contribution test and was able to tell me exactly which injector was bad. Still wasn't fun replacing injectors, but it was sure a lot easier on the bank account replacing just one injector vs. a bank of injectors or the whole lot. When my injector went bad, it wasnt smoking, but it was running really rough on the cold starts in the mornings (-10*C ~ 15*F) and was lacking power until the engine warmed up. My fuel control module went at the same time though :(
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-26 8:49 PM (#147263 - in reply to #147259)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Snoweary,

 I asked the dealership to let me know what injector is bad because I cannot afford to do them all right now. They could not tell me. So, this says to me that they didn't do all the necessary tests and then they told me to get them all done at the same time so that I wouldn't have any go bad again any time soon. Well my thing is I can afford to get them all fixed next year but not this year as I have spent all my savings already this year trying to keep on top of everything. First they charged me $130 for the diagnostic and then they call me back and say that they are going to need to do further research to see more and that that was going to be $290- well I have the truck back and they aren't telling me any more than they did when the diagnostic charge was at only $130- This is what pisses me off. They didn't DO anything after the first "look" at everything. And they charged me the $290-  Just really frustrated now.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-26 8:51 PM (#147266 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Oh...also, my truck is starting with no problem. No "missing" or anything at all. Can't even tell there is anything wrong with it. Just when going up-hill with a load.
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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-27 2:41 AM (#147270 - in reply to #147253)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-09-26 4:09 PM<BR><BR><P>Paul, </P><P>could this wiring be under or near either of the batteries? I just had to change out the batteries even though they were only 3 years old because they were bad batteries (bigfoot- from Big O' Tires) They were leaking all over the place. both of them.</P>
Check both battery cables both ends for corrosion clean if needed. Check for harness rub. The wiring harness rubs on the aluminum bracket for the alternator and wears the insulation off the wires, then they go to ground and it causes issues. If you do have harness rub, fix the missing insulation, broke wires. Then use a piece of rubber heater hose to protect the wires from rubbing through again.

Edited by PaulChristenson 2012-09-27 2:42 AM
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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-09-27 2:46 AM (#147271 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Bulletin No: PIP-4713 Date of Bulletin: 03/26/2010Summary Description: CHEVROLET/GMC: INSPECT FOR WIRE HARNESS CHAFES NEAR CONNECTOR X108. DEALER MAY ENCOUNTER A CONCERN OF THE SES LIGHT ON WITH REDUCED POWER. DIAGNOSTICS MAY REVEAL DTC'S P0193, P0522 AND/OR P0652. *PE
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brushycreekranch
Reg. Jun 2006
Posted 2012-09-27 10:39 AM (#147282 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light





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Paul, you rock!
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snoweary
Reg. Mar 2008
Posted 2012-09-27 4:42 PM (#147287 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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That's too bad. I hope you figure it out and it doesn't cost too much. It was the same when I bought my truck, spent all my savings doing the stuff I needed to do to it (FICM, injector, all fluids changed, gooseneck and fifth wheel, batteries) and dont have any left over for the cool stuff (spray in bed liner, edge insight guages, rear airbags)...
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-09-27 6:01 PM (#147291 - in reply to #147287)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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snoweary,

yeah......I wanted to get a fridge and a cowboy shower installed in the trailer this year but it ain't gonna happen this year. Ughhhh

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-10-03 5:03 PM (#147413 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Ok... so the dealership is saying it is the injectors for sure. I took it to someone else (second opinion)who ran all kinds of pressure tests and they confirmed what the dealer said. (injectors)
my question now is....do I absolutely need a diesel mechanic or is this a job that  any mechanic can tackle? The guy that has it right now that confirmed what the dealership told me, is a mechanic. He does work on diesels and has replaced engines and everything else. He said he can do the job. I am paying for the injectors myself over the phone.( $1800)
So, would you take your vehicle to a diesel mechanic only.... or is this something that any mechanic that works on engines and such can do?
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equinetransport
Reg. Aug 2008
Posted 2012-10-03 8:08 PM (#147421 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Posts: 22

Location: 03303
Sounds like your new guy knows what he's talking about and you trust him. Replacing the injectors isn't the hard part of this job (although time consuming), figuring what's wrong is. I'd go with your new guy.

Best of luck,

Jim Clark-Dawe
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-10-04 12:35 AM (#147425 - in reply to #147421)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Thanks Jim... I was starting to sweat it a little because this is all going to start on Thursday. Can't wait to have my truck back! Haven't ridden since July cause the horse came up lame on day 2 of my 7 day camping trip.Then on the way home (5 hours drive) the check engine light comes on. This has not been my summer for sure. Now, the horse is ready to ride and i have no truck. Im going crazy! Winter is coming
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-10-04 12:44 AM (#147426 - in reply to #147271)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Paul,

regarding the battery cables. I did not even see this post until today the 3rd of October. I don't know how I missed this but thanks! Yes.... you rock!

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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-10-04 12:16 PM (#147438 - in reply to #147413)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-10-03 5:03 PM

Ok... so the dealership is saying it is the injectors for sure. I took it to someone else (second opinion)who ran all kinds of pressure tests and they confirmed what the dealer said. (injectors)
my question now is....do I absolutely need a diesel mechanic or is this a job that  any mechanic can tackle? The guy that has it right now that confirmed what the dealership told me, is a mechanic. He does work on diesels and has replaced engines and everything else. He said he can do the job. I am paying for the injectors myself over the phone.( $1800)
So, would you take your vehicle to a diesel mechanic only.... or is this something that any mechanic that works on engines and such can do?
One question...if the dealership did the work...would there be any warranty?
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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-10-04 2:05 PM (#147443 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Paul,

 That's what i need to ask this guy about.
Thanks for the reminder.

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jackbrat
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2012-10-09 4:12 PM (#147548 - in reply to #146917)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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UPDATE:

 Gm has agreed to pay 50% of the truck repair!!!!! I had such an aweful time trying to contact GM customer support.( They do not answer the phones) So, yesterday I called the dealership to tell them of my frustration that I could not get anyone to answer the phones at CS. ( I had been calling for a week) So, I get a call today from one of the guys at the dealership that works in the service dept., stating that he called the GM Customer support( they have a direct line to them he tells me) and got GM to agree to cover 50% of the costs of replacing my fuel injectors.

So, this means I am paying $2438  instead of the $4800 to do the job. Much much better. Whewww!

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PaulChristenson
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2012-10-10 2:44 AM (#147555 - in reply to #147548)
Subject: RE: check engine light


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Originally written by jackbrat on 2012-10-09 4:12 PM

UPDATE:

 Gm has agreed to pay 50% of the truck repair!!!!! I had such an aweful time trying to contact GM customer support.( They do not answer the phones) So, yesterday I called the dealership to tell them of my frustration that I could not get anyone to answer the phones at CS. ( I had been calling for a week) So, I get a call today from one of the guys at the dealership that works in the service dept., stating that he called the GM Customer support( they have a direct line to them he tells me) and got GM to agree to cover 50% of the costs of replacing my fuel injectors.

So, this means I am paying $2438  instead of the $4800 to do the job. Much much better. Whewww!

Well...that sounds better...now just take care of these new ones...
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