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Member
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Location: Moscow Mills, MO. | I just purchased a used 2000 Sidekick 4 horse slant and the lights in the horse compartment ,midtack and dressing room only work when plugged in to tow vehicle. It does have a rooftop A/C that runs off of shore power (110). Is this normal on a Sidekick and if so how can I wire them to run off shore power, generator etc. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
   
Location: western PA | Our Sidekick is wired the same way. Under the nose of ours, near the break away battery, is a terminal strip where the leads from the trailer's plug are terminated. You can run a jumper from your batteries to the terminal for the plug's aux power. Disconnect the lead from the plug's wiring that is sourced from the truck, and cap the end. With this modification, if you inadvertently leave the stall lights on, you will kill the trailer batteries. Since you don't have a LQ, I'm not sure if your trailer has an aux battery. You can install a converter to run both your 12v lighting and manage the 110 voltage. If it doesn't have a battery, you can add a hot lead 12V Jumper, from the converter to the terminal strip, and power the lighting circuits whenever you have AC power to the shore cord.
Edited by gard 2012-08-18 10:27 PM
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Member
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Location: Moscow Mills, MO. | Thank you, I will give it a whirl. I plan on installing living quarters over the winter but just wanted lights for now. Also, could you possibly take a pic of your rear door post? The previous owner removed the rear tack and butchered that post. It is only secured at the bottom by a pin and nothing at the top so the doors are not secured very well. Im thinking I will have to have something fabricated as Sidekick doesn't exist anymore and I'm sure parts are non-existent. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | I can take a couple of photos, but you will have to send me your email address. My ignorance of modern technology, precludes my ability to post photos within this forum. The top is secured by a roof mounted, horizontal spring assisted pin, that locks the top of the post into the framework's structure. The bottom of the post sits into a receptacle, and is held in place by a vertical spring loaded stainless pin. The post itself is a complex shaped extrusion, that may be difficult to match if an original can't be found.
Edited by gard 2012-08-19 10:33 PM
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Location: Moscow Mills, MO. | Thank you for the help. I just left my fabricator and if you can get a pic of the post top and bottom and removed so he can see the peg it sits on that would be great. Just take as many as you see fit and I'll use what I can. My email address is cstanford@lincolncountyfire.orgThank you for your help |
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Member
Posts: 10
Location: Moscow Mills, MO. | |
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Member
Posts: 10
Location: Moscow Mills, MO. | Trailer is heading to fab shop today to replace damaged fender and build an aluminum battery box to solved lighting issues. Also going to fab up a way to secure rear door post better. Does anyone have a pic of a stud divider latch pin I could see? Apparently this one was broken at one time and is only about 6 inches long now! |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Sent you some photos, pin should be almost 2 ft long |
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Interior lights only run off 12 volt in my Sidekick?
