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Regular
Posts: 55
| I'm working in the sleep area of my DIY conversion and I know the answer is in this forum somewhere but I can't find it. Do I panel the walls before I insulate and put wood down on the floor or is it the other way around and would it be the same with the main floor. i noticed that some people frame in their cabinets before they put wood up. Wouldn't that make it hard to finish the walls inside the cabinets and closets? |
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Expert
Posts: 3802
   
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | This site ay give you a few good pointers... http://todd.redwrench.com/Insulation.htm http://todd.redwrench.com/Stripping.htm |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | We installed the wood flooring structure first; the sleepers, insulation and the sub floor. After the walls were built, installed and the interior almost finished, the flooring material was added. The edges were caulked and a quarter round molding was added to cover the expansion gap. The walls were finished before the cabinets were installed. This resulted in a finished and more attractive interior of them. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | The cabinets I built and installed on the sidewalls, had complete backs on them, so they were not open to the wall. The wardrobe across the nose, was essentially a face frame and three doors with no sides or back. It was built to fit the entire width, of the front of the trailer. The wall covering became this area's interior. |
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Regular
Posts: 55
| Thank you Gard for your much appreciated input. I probably over analyze things, as I have a few ceiling foam panels that do not fit tightly against the ceiling, in other words they drooped before I taped them. will condensation pool up there if there is space between the trailer ceiling and the foam. Should I replace them? I'm new at all this and if the insulating is the easiest part, maybe I should stop now:) Thank you for all your suggestions. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | The joints between rigid insulation pieces, can be sealed with a small can of expanding spray foam, and then held into place with a metalic tape. The inside surface of the insulation needs to be completely sealed. Any gaps will allow moisture to penetrate into the spaces you mentioned, which may result in mold accumulation. The rigid foam's surface, if sealed, acts as moisture barrier. You can usually first glue the panels to the ceiling, using a polyurethane construction adhesive. I use the PL brand available at the big box stores. It will hold the panels in place while you apply the sealant and secure things with the tape. No need for replacement. Just finish what you have already done. |
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Member
Posts: 7
Location: Regina, Sk | PL premium is probably the best glue to use because sometimes, depending on what type of styrofoam you are using, other glues like PL 400 or sub floor adhesive will actually eat into the styrofoam when it dries creating a void you can not see and it does not actually secure the styrofoam. Also I know you have your material but generally that the blue 2" thick SM styrofoam has a R value of 3.5 where as there is what we call energy sheild, it is 1" thick styrofoam with foil paper on each side has an R value of 7 I believe, so you can get twice the R rating for half the thickness of the foam, it is however usually more expensive. |
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Member
Posts: 7
Location: Regina, Sk | Sorry, need to correct myself, blue ridge insulation R value is usually R 3.5 per inch not R 3.5 for 2 inches thick. |
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Regular
Posts: 55
| Thank you Gard, I will just make sure it is sealed good from the inside. Crossview, I used the 1" foam with foil on both sides, although I'm still not sure if I put the right side facing out, (shiniest side) I trust it will be ok. |
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Regular
Posts: 55
| Gard, Another rode block in my efforts to beat the cold weather here in michigan. Acetone is not cutting the glue that Kiefer put under the carpet, can I put glue over it for my 1 by's to stick to on the sleep area floor? thank you for your time and advice. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Be very careful when using acetone in a small inclosed area. Make sure you have a fan and adequate ventilation. Only a respirator with charcole canisters can adequately protect you. If the original glue is well adhered, a polyurethane glue should adhere quite well to that. If in doubt, try gluing a small piece of wood as a test piece. Be careful if your sleepers are treated lumber. It does not do well in direct contact with aluminum. Make sure your glue lines are thick enough to prevent any actual surface to surface contact. If your lumber is not treated, this is a non issue. I've used treated lumber in the main flooring and non treated wood in the bunk area with no problems. BOL |
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Which comes first?
