Expert
Posts: 3802
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | How old is the trailer? Any warranty? Think that skin is held in place with an adhesive tape.... You may have to remove entire sheet to clean and retape, or, maybe it could be riveted back in place and sealed with silicone adhesive. Some Mfg's use this tape..... http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Product/Bonding-Tapes/VHB-Tape/ |
Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Some manufacturers do not rivet the circumference areas of the exterior panels, which then relies on only the adhesive tapes to secure the skin. This saves labour costs and makes for a higher profit margin. Better construction methods include both the tapes and securing rivets. As a result, you can see the edges of some manufacturers' trailers, that have the edges of the panels lifting after only a few years of service. There's no easy fix. The tape acts as a spacer between the skin and structure. This spacing is very necessary in a bimetalic build with a steel frame and aluminum skin. Drilling and bucking a solid rivet through this, would result in a dimpled skin. A blind type of rivet could be used, but it would have to be hand pulled, so again, the skin wouldn't dimple. If you try to prise the skin apart from the structure, to access areas to insert an adhesive, it will in all probability bend and make the area look worse than it is now. I would first try to use a closed head marine "pop" rivet in an unconspicuous area, and pull it with a small mechanical gun, not an air/hydraulic unit. You can more control the strength of the pull this way, and can ease off before the metal bends. Even if the shaft doesn't shear because of the incomplete pull, it can be cut and ground flush. It's a shame that consumers have to assume the responsibility, for fixing the sins of the manufacturers. |
Member
Posts: 17
| It is a 2006, I bought it used in 2007 I believe. (I'm horrible with dates!) The skin appears to overlap at the seams, there are no visible rivets where the skin is lose. (It is loose on a couple of the vertical seams) I have been worried about pulling it out farther to work with, as I figured that would cause more damage. It appears to have been initially attached by some form of liquid adhesive. I try to get epoxy to work, but have had no luck. Either it does not get in the correct place, or it won't stick. Sticks to my hands, jeans and the ladder effectively however! I have considered just utilizing silicone calk, which would seal from any water entering, but it would still stick out. I appreciate your assistance! |
Veteran
Posts: 188
Location: Kinston, NC | Originally written by gard on 2011-07-27 8:44 AM Some manufacturers do not rivet the circumference areas of the exterior panels, which then relies on only the adhesive tapes to secure the skin. This saves labour costs and makes for a higher profit margin. It's a shame that consumers have to assume the responsibility, for fixing the sins of the manufacturers. Depending on the adhesive, it is not necessarily more cost effective to use adhesives vs riveting. Both are labor intensive, roughly the same. Riveting/drill bits cost less than adhesive tape/primer/scuff pads/alcohol cleaning. A manufacturer using a high quality (think 3M) bonding adhesive saves zero money vs riveting. The cost savings can be achieved by using lower grade tapes and/or bonding caulk-like products (Sikaflex comes to mind, but there are several). Also, how the surface is cleaned/scuffed/primed can greatly affected adhesion and time. When done properly, adhesive tapes are atleast as effective as rivets. There are some other advantages to tapes, such as noise dampening and expansion warpage control. Here is a good video Check out the 1:20 mark and the 5:05 mark http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OtrDvDvF5I Bartley Heath Buy Factory Direct and $ave at www.DoubleDTrailers.com |