Generator - eletrical power for trailer
whisper237
Reg. Jan 2010
Posted 2011-03-11 12:25 PM (#131524)
Subject: Generator - eletrical power for trailer


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Posts: 26
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Location: MN

I am getting a horse trailer that has 12v interior lights that is run with the truck batteries when the trailer is plugged in.

Well I would like to be able to run a generator or plug into the electrical option. I'm being quoted by a camper place of 1000 dollars or more because they will have to rewire the trailer, add a converter, fuses and new lights. And another place told me around 800 dollars.

All I want to do is run a mini fridge, microwave or small heater probably not all at once either.

What is the best way to do this. I appreciate the advice. Can any electrician do the work?

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Painted Horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2011-03-11 12:36 PM (#131525 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer



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Location: Northern Utah

To give you a basic understanding.  Your current electrical systems runs on 12volt.   Your generator is going to produce 120 volt.  So something has to be changed if you want everything to run off the generator or shorepower.

The other option is to maintain two electrical systems.  Your current 12volt system to run the lights when plugged into the truck ( or install a deep cycle battery)  and then install an outlet or two for the 120 volt electricity from the generator.  With those outlets you could plug in your microwave and heater and other 120volt appliances and have them operate when your generator is running. The Lights would have nothing to do with the generator and the appliances with have nothing to do with the 12 volt system.

Any competant electrician should be able to install an outlet or two for a couple of hours of work. so it is really what you want and what you are willing to put up with.

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whisper237
Reg. Jan 2010
Posted 2011-03-11 12:40 PM (#131526 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer


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Posts: 26
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Location: MN

Thanks that is what I think I want to go with is 2 stand alone systems.

What do I have to do to install the deep cycle battery for the lights, is there specific type of plug to use, converter etc?



Edited by whisper237 2011-03-11 12:42 PM
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GRNMCHNEDAZE
Reg. Mar 2010
Posted 2011-03-11 12:41 PM (#131527 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer


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The best and correct way would be to have it done for the $800.

I'll probably get flamed for mentioning this, but friends of ours have a trailer with a small weekender/sleeping area and instead or rewiring it, they (he) drilled a small hole in the floor under the cabinets and put a power strip in. They ran small hidden extension cords, if needed, to his 110v appliances (mini fridge, lamp, microwave, coffee maker). Carries a lamp to use for light instead of the 12v lights if he has shore power to plug in to. They just use an extension cord to run from shore power to the 3 prong end from the power strip that hangs just under the edge of the trailer. He siliconed the drilled hole. It was cheap and easy.

You wont want to use your truck batteries if at all possible.

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whisper237
Reg. Jan 2010
Posted 2011-03-14 12:53 PM (#131637 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer


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Posts: 26
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Location: MN

Thanks I was wondering how to go about getting the outside power cord in.  Now do I need a heavy duty cord to hook up to a electrical power source at a show or rodeo and if so does it plug into a fuse box or something in the trailer. I'm just trying to get this all figured out before I start going to places and picking up parts to do it.

And with a generator that has a 110V plug in spot do I need to have a converter on it or can I just use a outside extension cord to plug into the power strip?

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Painted Horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2011-03-14 2:52 PM (#131644 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer



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Location: Northern Utah

Most of the commercial conversion companies will use a 30 amp circuit.   This will require a 10gauge cord with a 30 amp 110volt  plug on the end of it. I suspect that most shore power plugs at camp grounds will have the receptical plug in for that same 30 amp circuit.

There are many places to buy adapter plugs to convert from 30amp to a standard 20amp 110 volt plug like most of your extension cords use. And as long as you don't exceed the 15 or 20 amp rating of your cord, You will be fine using one of those adapters.

Take a serious look at what you will plug in and add up the amps each device will use and size your cord appropriately.

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tr0y
Reg. Mar 2009
Posted 2011-03-14 4:29 PM (#131646 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer


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Location: Home of the WNFR at Christmas
If your not comfortable with DIY most electricians would do it I am sure. I have posted a DIY wire diagram that may help you if you search the forum you can find it.
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longearsmom
Reg. Mar 2008
Posted 2011-03-14 6:36 PM (#131650 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer


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Posts: 23

Location: Virginia
ne thing to consider with the fridge, the generator will have to be run quite a bit to allow fridge to cycle correctly.
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headhunter
Reg. Oct 2004
Posted 2011-03-14 6:46 PM (#131651 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer



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Location: Western WA
I used to run a heavy duty (10-12 gauge)extension cord through a window in a prior non-LQ trailer to plug in a ceramic heater, microwave (not all at once!) etc. and just used an ice chest instead of a fridge. I'm probably going to get flamed for this too, but if I were going to just have a few things that required 110 power, I don't know that I would go to the expense of wiring in a shore plug and a 110v outlet, I think I would just do what I did or what was previously mentioned using the power strip. Its not ideal, but its way cheaper than $800-1000.
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whisper237
Reg. Jan 2010
Posted 2011-03-15 3:31 PM (#131681 - in reply to #131524)
Subject: RE: Generator - eletrical power for trailer


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Posts: 26
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Location: MN
We may do the cheapest way for right now, I'm not going to get the 2 horse trailer but see what it will cost to make our slant wall moveable in our 4 horse slant-stock trailer for now. And then either convert it to a 3 horse fully in the fall.
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