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Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Perkiomenville, PA | Hope someone can give some insight. Bought a 2002 Eby 16' stock gooseneck and want to line the walls, in between the uprights. Have all the pieces cut (using 1/2" pressure treated plywood) and solid color stained. I think, on a budget, this is going to look pretty good and I can always freshen up that solid stain during spring maintenance. Here's my question - would like to use construction adhesive (the very good stuff for heavy pieces and low temps) to fasten them to the aluminum walls. Any problem with chemical reactions, or poor performance, that I should worry about? I MAY have another option, but its a lot harder. That would be to slip steel or wood strips into the slots of the extruded aluminum, using the uprights to hold in place, and screw into those.
If I do that, instead, do I have to worry about a reaction between the aluminum and the steel?
We aren't hauling any wild broncs. I think the 1/2 plywood should do - its always worked for me on other trailers anyway, and took a lot of kicks with no problem.
Thanks for your input. | |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | You shouldn't place a pressure treated product directly against aluminum. Installing steel to the aluminum will cause a galvanic corrosion. Your third option is the best. Install wood strips to the studs, and fasten the plywood to the strips. Use stainless screws. Another option is to use marine grade plywood, glued directly to the aluminum walls. | |
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Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Perkiomenville, PA | Thanks much, Gard! The wood strip option still puts this pressure treated in contact with the aluminum, as the wood strips would be in the recessed slots of the extruded aluminum wall. I do want the plywood flush against the wall, so there is no gap if it has to take a kick. What do you think about solid stain on the wood, so that a sealed/stained surface is against the aluminum? Or, I could go out and get any kind of roll on finish such as roofing rubber, if that would be better. I could also adhese heavy plastic on the plywood on the wall side ... all ideas appreciated - this is a job I want to do today.... | |
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Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Perkiomenville, PA | OK my research is saying 10 mil polyethelene goes between the trailer wall and plywood. None available with buying 100' at $200. Supply yard says roofing tarpaper will also do. Input welcome. | |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Originally written by evallone on 2011-02-24 7:44 AM
Thanks much, Gard! The wood strip option still puts this pressure treated in contact with the aluminum, as the wood strips would be in the recessed slots of the extruded aluminum wall. I do want the plywood flush against the wall, so there is no gap if it has to take a kick. What do you think about solid stain on the wood, so that a sealed/stained surface is against the aluminum? Or, I could go out and get any kind of roll on finish such as roofing rubber, if that would be better. I could also adhese heavy plastic on the plywood on the wall side ... all ideas appreciated - this is a job I want to do today.... If the wood strips were fabricated so they would be proud of the studs, the plywood would not contact the aluminum when it was installed. I don't see why a coat of paint wouldn't seal the wood's preservative and protect the aluminum. Stain soaks into the wood and offers very little surfacing protection. If you install a plastic barrier sheet or roofing felt paper, how will you then glue the panels? | |
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Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Perkiomenville, PA | Thanks, Gard. I went to Home Depot today and boought 3/8" fanfold type rigid insulation. That is now going against the aluminum. I bought those pieces of steel with holes that you use to bridge things (they have a name I can't recall - maybe joiners). I plan to place the insulation against the aluminum, then the plywood, then use the joiner pieces (with gorilla tape against the aluminum so no contact between aluminum and steel) and screw the joiner plate into the uprights and into my plywood. Viola!
I'll send you a picture when its done! With this, no contact and the addition of some rigid insulation IN CASE a horse really kicks that can't hurt.
Any thoughts are welcome. | |
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