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Member
Posts: 37
Location: Northern Nevada | I'm a gal trying to finish a DIY weekender and I've gotten a ton of good info from everybody here but I can't seem to get a good solution for finishing the ceiling in my Trailswest. I have insulated the walls and ceiling and paneled the walls up to where the coving of the ceiling begins. I got some white textured wallboard from Depot thinking that would be flexible enough to follow the curve of the ceiling where it meets the wall. NOT! I did not frame the interior of the trailer with firring strips like alot of you guys have done. I'm attaching directly to the metal supports through out the trailer. I have attached a pic of what it looks like so far. Any ideas? |
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Member
Posts: 37
Location: Northern Nevada | My picture was too big to post. Have to figure out how to make it smaller. |
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Member
Posts: 37
Location: Northern Nevada | here is one photo that shows where I'm at. I did put a firring strip where the paneling meets the coving thinking that I might need something more to attach the ceiling material to. |
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Member
Posts: 37
Location: Northern Nevada | sorry, I could not attach the photo even at a smaller size. But I did post photos in an album! |
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Member
Posts: 7
Location: Northeast Missouri | Did you ever figure this out? I am thinking about redoing mine this winter, but haven't figured out how to fill in the "curve" at the corners. |
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Member
Posts: 37
Location: Northern Nevada | yep I figured it out allright! Sell it and buy one that's already done!
Edited by flyin'horse 2011-06-18 9:06 AM
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Expert
Posts: 5870
  
Location: western PA | When we installed a LQ, we framed out the ceiling and walls with wooden studs. Except for the ceiling's center which has a slight upward bowing, the corner transitions were then pretty much squared up. We installed precut paneling, formed using cardboard templates, covered with an automotive headliner material; a blast from the 60's, a favourite of the owner. The studding made the insulation, wiring runs, plumbing, electrical box placements, lighting boxes all much easier to install. It also made the installation of the paneling and cabinets much more secure. |
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Veteran
Posts: 213
Location: Virginia | yep I figured it out allright! Sell it and buy one that's already done!
Excellent!! I wish that were an option for me :-) Gard - tomorrow we are installing the ceiling into my trailer. We have the entire LQ space studded out. The ceiling has wood strips that have been cut to allow it to follow the curve of the ceiling. The material is the bathroom panels from Lowes that have a textured surface. The strips on the ceiling (side to side) are about 18" apart with a strip down the center as well. My question is about sagging. Do you have any experience/knowledge about how this material stands up to hot temperatures? The LQ area is fully insulated, but it still gets warm by the ceiling. I know that if it sags, DH will tear it down and try something else - he is quite the perfectionist YOu are right about the studs - they make putting in the electrical quite easy and neat. |
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Member
Posts: 16
Location: WayOutWest | I finished mine just the same way and did the curve with strips cut from the ceiling material to lay slanted in that stretch and used 3/4 inch grass rope to hide the seams. Used ss screws to hold it up every foot or so, looks real good . I'll try and post pictures. |
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Veteran
Posts: 150
Location: Le Claire IA | I just took out my old ceiling and paneling and venturing into ideas for mine, also with rounded corners. Can you post pictures or send them to me?
I had the pine paneling but I'm thinking of going with something light and light in color.
Thanks!! |
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Regular
Posts: 56
Location: Shawnee, Oklahoma | Why don't you put a wardrobe across the front of the nose so your corners are square instead of round? |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | Originally written by Cindy Trailer Depot on 2011-06-22 2:58 PM
Why don't you put a wardrobe across the front of the nose so your corners are square instead of round? This creates an excellent storage space, and does square up the forward cove, making the ceiling to wall areas easier to fit. Remember when making the face frame, to construct the bottom rail almost a foot in height. This will allow the doors to open above your mattress, bedding and pillows, without having to move them each time access is necessary. |
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Veteran
Posts: 150
Location: Le Claire IA | Good ideas. I have an older trailer with the round front and rounded on the top sides. I don't have enough room for the mattress if I add a wardrobe. I'm not sure how it was done but the panels are curved and glued to the framing. Maybe it was scored on the backside of the panels. I haven't taken that off yet. Thanks |
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Regular
Posts: 73
| We found textured white plastic panels that are used for shower walls, they are 4x8, I think. They are flexible, a little too flexible. But we found if you anchor them often and use those plastic firring strips that are designed to connect them, they don't bow. We used white discs or "flowers" or something to cover the screws. I was afraid it would look bad, but the white blends well. An alternative would be to put a square soffit at the top where the walls & ceiling meet. We did this over the door, where we didn't have cabinets to cover where they met. I'll attach a pic if I can. |
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finishing ceiling in weekender
