|
|
Member
Posts: 10
| I'm upgrading my "rig" from a Honda Pilot with a Brenderup to an F250 and a Trail-Et New Yorker. I already have the trailer and will be getting rid of the Brenderup and possibly the Honda. I don't owe anything on any of them so I'm in a good position to keep the Honda and look for a used F250. Although, I need some advice on the "good years" of this particular model. I've heard about some issues with the early 2000s (i.e. 2002, 2003, etc?) but again, I'm not an expert here. I already know what I want and I just found someone who's willing to trade me for my Honda and some cash for his '08 F250 diesel. Since I'm looking for diesel what are the years to stay away from? I don't want to go too old (i.e. prior to 2000) and would rather look at something 2004 or newer. I don't commute much b/c I work from home - I only put about 15K miles on my Honda in the past 2 years. I also know diesels last forever but what is a true life span of a diesel? The guy with the '08 has 110K miles on it already. Looking forward to the feedback and advice. BTW, the reason I want a diesel is due to possibly towing long distances and over mountains. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 147
 
Location: santa clara, ca | well you are going into a very touchy subject (some will say you don't need a diesel, and that a 6.8 v10 will do...especially with the miles you drive: it's your decision after all)-Many will advocate for 2000-2003 diesel with the 7.3L: the engine is very relaible, but still commands somewhat of a premium and the truck itself will be already 7-10 years old-other will say got for 05-07 6.0 (we have an 05) as by that time all the bugs were worked out. These models also have improved specs from the prior group (2000-2003). The interior and exterior is mostly the same ( the grill being probably the only part different)- 08-10 is the 6.4: many have complimented the power, but lamented the MPG and some early on problems. the Interior is all new (less work appearance, and more car/suv like) as well as most of the sheet metal.2011: 6.7 uber nice truck but expensive110K is a lot of miles for 3 a year truck, but at least you can hope that if something had to go wrong it would have already had (but you are already over the warranty 5yr/100K for the diesel engine).Unless your state/county has weird policies for insurance/registration i would expand your search to F350s as well... |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 368
Location: Georgia | I am biased as I have a 2002 7.3 (350 dually) diesel and I love it. I bought it in Sept. 06 with 52,000 miles on it. I went specifically looking for the 7.3 engine. Waited until I found what I wanted and bought it. Patience paid off. Here's my OPINION on any 2004 Ford 6.0...DO NOT repeat DO not buy. Again, that is just my personal opinion. My fella had to have Ford buy his 04 250 back because it was basically CRAP. He had an 05 250 that he did like but did not keep it very long so can't really comment on the long term ownership of the 05. As far as how long a diesel will last, this is my first diesel and I sure hope it will last me many many more years. |
|
| |
|
 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 385
Location: high desert, CA. | Personally I would steer away from the 6.0. and the 7.3 is solid. The new ones are not thrifty, but are again solid. So many of the Fords had problems in the mid 2000's, from blown heads, turbos, studs on heads, ECT.You may want to look at the Chev/GMC Duramax, and the Dodge Cummins. they both have their good and bad points, but the engines are solid.Of course this is all IMHO! LOL! |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 10
| This is what I needed to hear... go after the 7.3 and NOT the 6.0. I recall something like this and couldn't remember what it was. I test drove an 04 Dodge Cummins but my neighbor is on his 3rd transmission in the same year/model, etc and that makes me nervous. I'm open but have always leaned towards Ford, then Chevy and Dodge is always 3rd for me. I hear the duramax with the allison tranny is bullet proof. Any other suggestions? |
|
| |
|
 Elite Veteran
Posts: 736
Location: Western WA | The weak link in the 7.3L Fords is the tranny. Got progressively better with each couple of model years (IE: 1999/2000 worst, 2001 ok, 2002/2003 best). I blew the tranny in my previous truck, a 2001 w/ 7.3L just parking a mid-sized 5th wheel trailer. Ford went to a much better tranny to partner with the 6.0L, but then you have the head gasket problem. BTDT too. I now have a 6.0L with aftermarket head studs. I'd go for a 7.3L with a manual tranny or a 6.0L that has already blown the head gaskets and has after market head studs to replace the OEM head bolts. Or ideally, a 6.0L that had the head bolts replaced with head studs prior to blowing the head gaskets.
Edited by headhunter 2010-11-29 9:28 PM
|
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 7
Location: Amarillo, TX | One thing I would add is to ask or look and see if the truck was ran with a "Tuner, Hyper chip, etc". They can add a tremendous ammount of xtra Horse power, but they can also be extremely hard on diesel engines and drive trains. Don't get me wrong, we have a 2000 F250 flatbed with the 7.3, and it is a beast when pulling. We do in fact have a Bully Chip on it, and love the way you can adjust HP and Foot lbs for pulling, but on extreme setting I can see where someone could easily trash a motor, transmition or clutch. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 391
Location: Columbia, KY | we have a 2000 F350- 6 speed manual transmission w/ the 7.3 L engine- have had absolutely no problems at all, before that had a '92 F250 (manual 5 speed) with the 7.3, truck ran great w/ lots of hauling miles. just my opinion but I love these trucks. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 342
Location: Ohio | If Ford is what you like, keep your eyes open for an early 2003 w/ the 7.3 or go newer to 06-07 with the 6.0 (steer away from a 2003.5 or 2004..2005 was mixed). With an 07 and under 100k miles, you'd still have some warranty left.
Don't let people scare you away from the 6 liter--A lot of people just repeat what their brother-in-law's, uncle's, great grandma's, third cousin's son had to say about his 6.0. There are a lot more good 6.0's on the road than bad.
In the last 2 years of the 6.0, there were fewer warranty claims than any years of the 7.3. Something to think about.
Just be patient in finding a good one. Do beware for trucks with the appearance of being tuned. I purchased an 06 6.0 with 70k miles earlier this year. I have had no issues out of it. Its a very strong engine and will put the 7.3 to shame towing and stopping. 05 and newer got a new grill and headlights, but they also got new front suspension (with less ball jount and u-joint problems) and bigger brakes, and higher towing and GVWR. All 6.0's have the 5 speed torqshift trans which is awesome btw.
As for care, if you decide on a 6.0, don't skimp on maintenance. Use Motorcraft/Racor everything! oil, filters, fuel filters, etc.
If you find one you like, get the VIN #, call a Ford dealership and tell them you want an Oasis report. It's free around here..some places charge for it. The Oasis report tells all warranty work that was done to that vehicle through its life. Worth it! It took me 7 months to find my truck, but I'm glad I waited. I like the 6.0.....
Every make had problems. Dodges have chassis issues, front ends, and the transmission problems. Go newer than 07 and you will have DPF problems on the 6.7. Chevrolet's Duramax is a strong engine, but came with it's fair share of injector problems and front end float while towing due to the independent front suspension. I like all makes of trucks, I ride with people who have their own preference and all have had the above issues with their truck. People have a bad taste in their mouth about the 6.0, but coming from an owner of one, don't let them scare you away. Find a good one, treat it right, and ride on! |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 399
Location: Ottawa, Illinois 61350 | I drive an 01 Ford 350 7.3 w/ auto trans that has 284K on it; and I have never touched the engine or tranny other that normal service (oil and filters). I have hauled and delivered a lot of 7 ton loads of hay with this truck. I also just purchased another 01; but a 250 with the same engine/trans. The truck has 127K one owner miles on it; BUT I had to do some serious searching to find it. Most trucks of this vintage will have closer to 200K or more on them. I have a lot of customers that own 6.0's, and have either gotten rid of them or traded for DuraMax's. |
|
| |
|
 Veteran
Posts: 274
Location: Memphis, TN | For what its worth.....I too know folks who swear by their 7.3 Ford and I know folks who have 05-07 6.0 Fords with no problems. Have seen broken 03-04 6.0L. The 08-11 Fords are nice but very expensive. I bought a used 05 F250 that Ford had bought back under warranty after the motor tanked.....they put a new motor in it and I have 150k on her now. Stock, running good. Glad your looking to get a real truck, you will like it. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1351
Location: Decatur, Texas | Originally written by qhfan2 on 2010-11-29 3:34 PM
I'm upgrading my "rig" from a Honda Pilot with a Brenderup to an F250 and a Trail-Et New Yorker. I already have the trailer and will be getting rid of the Brenderup and possibly the Honda. I don't owe anything on any of them so I'm in a good position to keep the Honda and look for a used F250. Although, I need some advice on the "good years" of this particular model. I've heard about some issues with the early 2000s (i.e. 2002, 2003, etc?) but again, I'm not an expert here. I already know what I want and I just found someone who's willing to trade me for my Honda and some cash for his '08 F250 diesel. Since I'm looking for diesel what are the years to stay away from? I don't want to go too old (i.e. prior to 2000) and would rather look at something 2004 or newer. I don't commute much b/c I work from home - I only put about 15K miles on my Honda in the past 2 years. I also know diesels last forever but what is a true life span of a diesel? The guy with the '08 has 110K miles on it already. Looking forward to the feedback and advice. BTW, the reason I want a diesel is due to possibly towing long distances and over mountains. And let the bashing start. hee hee. Here is my opinion and I not only sell them but use them myself. Pretty much all years of the 7.3's are good and it kept close to stock (other than exhaust and mild tuner or chip) will last a good while. While some will tell you "I have heard" or whatever, anything I tell you is from USING MYSELF, not what I heard someone say or do. Pure facts only. With that being said, someone said something about tranny problems is some years. Hog wash! Ford used the SAME automatic transmission from 1992 till 1997 and the same from 1999 till 2003 in the 7.3 trucks. The only real issues is if the OD light flashes the elctronic packs in the trannys go bad causing hard shifting. ($300. to $500. fix) The 2008 year model you mentioned I would RUN as fast as I could to get away from it as well as any 2008 TO 2010 FORD DIESEL. Some was OK and most was problems. My favorite is the 6.0's. Because most people hate them and I know how to fix them and make them better than the 7.3's. More power and a 5 speed automatic transmission. The problem with these truck are most people have no clue what to check or fix on them andjust send them to Ford and Ford will charge you out the wyzoo to fix them. As far as the life of a diesel, that is all up to the owner of that diesel. I have seen 7.3's with 75-k miles on there last leg and some with over 400-k still strong. (just sold it last week). Also have seen 6.0's the same way. low miles turds and 250-k to 300-k running perfect. I just sold a 04 F-350 REGULAR cab dually with the 6.0, automatic 2 wheel drive with 286-k miles that I fixed right and did it did have a chip in it and I would not be think twice about driving it anywhere towing or not. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 736
Location: Western WA | Originally written by hogtownboss on 2010-11-30 1:38 PM someone said something about tranny problems is some years. Hog wash! Ford used the SAME automatic transmission from 1992 till 1997 and the same from 1999 till 2003 in the 7.3 trucks. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Buying a used truck can be a crapshoot... if the previous owner was an idiot, you could become a repair expert... |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406
Location: Minneapolis, MN | Originally written by headhunter on 2010-11-30 3:32 PM Originally written by hogtownboss on 2010-11-30 1:38 PM someone said something about tranny problems is some years. Hog wash! Ford used the SAME automatic transmission from 1992 till 1997 and the same from 1999 till 2003 in the 7.3 trucks. May be the same transmissions, but not the same clutch plate. I blew the tranny in a 2001 and had this all explained to me when it was repaired. I'd go for a later-model 7.3L if going with an automatic transmission. |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 92
Location: Harrisburg, PA | Originally written by qhfan2 on 2010-11-29 4:34 PM
I'm upgrading my "rig" from a Honda Pilot with a Brenderup to an F250 and a Trail-Et New Yorker. I already have the trailer and will be getting rid of the Brenderup and possibly the Honda. I don't owe anything on any of them so I'm in a good position to keep the Honda and look for a used F250. Although, I need some advice on the "good years" of this particular model. I've heard about some issues with the early 2000s (i.e. 2002, 2003, etc?) but again, I'm not an expert here. I already know what I want and I just found someone who's willing to trade me for my Honda and some cash for his '08 F250 diesel. Since I'm looking for diesel what are the years to stay away from? I don't want to go too old (i.e. prior to 2000) and would rather look at something 2004 or newer. I don't commute much b/c I work from home - I only put about 15K miles on my Honda in the past 2 years. I also know diesels last forever but what is a true life span of a diesel? The guy with the '08 has 110K miles on it already. Looking forward to the feedback and advice. BTW, the reason I want a diesel is due to possibly towing long distances and over mountains. Like the others said, this is a loaded question. Here is my take. (I have an 08 F-250 Diesel)Before 04 they put in 7.3L engines that were tough and good on fuel economy. With an electronics upgrade you can boost the fuel economy and power and still have a strong truck.From 04-07 Ford used a 6.0L Powerstroke. The 04's and early 05's have a few reliability issues but if you dig into the vehicle history you can protect against a bad one. But there were additional emissions requirements that compromised engine life and the increase in power didn't help either. Fuel economy was still decent. Performing anything more than minor work on these involves major labor since the engine is packed tightly into the cab. Most of the reliability issues are related to the emissions equipment so you might do well to find one that has this stuff already removed.In 08-10 Ford used a 6.4L Powerstroke. While it improved on the reliability issues of the 6.0L, it's got more emissions stuff and a slightly different set of reliability concerns. However it's still better than the 6.0L. Engine access still sucks and fuel economy is worse. Like the 6.0's you can remove the emissions gear to get the fuel economy back but that's an investment and removing it is illegal in many states. But if you can get by the fuel use it's a great truck. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1351
Location: Decatur, Texas | Order of fuel economy from my personal use going from the worst to the best, based on STOCK trucks. 2008 to 2010 1994 to 1997 1999 to 2003 (7.3's) 2003 (6.0's)to 2007 Now for the economy with mild upgraded equipment on the 1994 to 2003 (7.3's) and 2003 (6.0's) to 2007 with egr and cooler detetes and the 2008 to 2010 with the DPF deletes. Again going from worst to best mileage. 2008 to 2010 1994 to 2003 (7.3's) will can get close to the same when done right. 2003 (6.0's) to 2007 again the best for mileage. |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 92
Location: Harrisburg, PA | Originally written by hogtownboss on 2010-11-30 2:38 PM My favorite is the 6.0's. (My understanding is that to change the EGR cooler or remove it you basically must pull the cab off the truck, and that's not exactly shadetree stuff)David
Edited by dgeesaman 2010-12-02 4:41 PM
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 186
| I have a 2000 F250 7l diesel automatic transmition, It had 103,000 miles when I got it three years ago but it never towed anything heavy, it only had a small four flat trailer light hook up on it. I have put 20,000 on it . wish I would have gotten a gas truck, 3 months after I got it diesel $ went higher than gas and you have to use diesel additive every time you fuel up if you want your engine to last. I don't like the noise or the constant oil leaks. And you have to plug it in to start when below 40 degrees, with new batteries. It does tow good in the moutains but lacks in speedy pick up. I have had it in to the shop twice for "Hard" shifting. They say the cant find anything wrong with it so I drive it like the old flat head 6 engine and let off the gas prior to the shifting between 30mph to 35, the gas mileage 10 mpg 12mpg is the best I ever got on long haul two horse trailer aprox 6,500 lbs loaded.
Edited by gliderider 2010-12-02 5:15 PM
|
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 342
Location: Ohio | You do not have to pull the cab off to clean/repace/delete the EGR cooler. There is right ups and how-to's in a couple different PSD forums. You can most likely google search how its done. Personally, I've never done mine (because it's deleted), but most people do it in a couple hours time.
Cab off's come with head gasket replacement, and even then, its not necessary, just makes it easier for the techs. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 399
Location: Ottawa, Illinois 61350 | Gliderider; I know every truck is different, but I have added fuel additives very few times to my '01 F350 w/ 284,000 on it. I only plug it in if it's going to get 15 degrees or below; otherwise I just cycle it twice. I get about the same mileage as you do, but if you have 3.73 gears instead of 4.10's, you should probably be getting more like 15-16. Have your truck checked over; as you shouldn't have that many issues with a 7.3 as your having. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 22
| I would go up to a 350... And a 7.3... Also I would think long on the diesel part.. I do drive a diesel and sometimes finding a diesel pump that can accommodate my rig and cold weather can be the pits.. JMHO |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1351
Location: Decatur, Texas | Originally written by gliderider on 2010-12-02 5:13 PM
I have a 2000 F250 7l diesel automatic transmition, It had 103,000 miles when I got it three years ago but it never towed anything heavy, it only had a small four flat trailer light hook up on it. I have put 20,000 on it . wish I would have gotten a gas truck, 3 months after I got it diesel $ went higher than gas and you have to use diesel additive every time you fuel up if you want your engine to last. I don't like the noise or the constant oil leaks. And you have to plug it in to start when below 40 degrees, with new batteries. It does tow good in the moutains but lacks in speedy pick up. I have had it in to the shop twice for "Hard" shifting. They say the cant find anything wrong with it so I drive it like the old flat head 6 engine and let off the gas prior to the shifting between 30mph to 35, the gas mileage 10 mpg 12mpg is the best I ever got on long haul two horse trailer aprox 6,500 lbs loaded. Oil leaks on 7.3's is either the oil presure switch on top of the engine causing oil to run down the valley off the back of the engine or the oil filter or valve cover gaskets. This is the 3 major oil problems. Hard shifting could either be a silinoid pack in the tranny or abs switch on the rear axle housing. (easy way to tell is if your od light is flashing while driving) Having to plug it in at 40* is more than likely the glow plug relay possible glow plug. After looking at some of my books I found something you need to have done and this could be the problem with everything, hard shifting, cold start, mileage and oil leaks too. Have a someone run a buzz/ contribution test on your truck. Will have to be someone that has a good scanner like a SNAP-ON or something like it. This test takes about 10 mins to run and will check you injectors and glow plugs both then let you know if each cyl is hitting or not. You could very well just need valve cover gaskets which could also solve you oil leaks. These gaskets have electrical wires running through them and is just a poor setup in general. If oil is getting into the connectors that could cause a short circut. Reason I included the hard shifting is if these trucks are not running RIGHT they will not shift right. Everything on them is electronic. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1351
Location: Decatur, Texas | Originally written by dgeesaman on 2010-12-02 4:40 PM Originally written by hogtownboss on 2010-11-30 2:38 PM My favorite is the 6.0's. How much time does it take you to fix the problems and what is it that you change out? (My understanding is that to change the EGR cooler or remove it you basically must pull the cab off the truck, and that's not exactly shadetree stuff)David The egr system on these trucks are WORTHLESS! There is a couple of companies that offer egr delete or bypass kits. Depending on how much you want to do. The easy/cheapest is around $500 of so parts and labor (around here) for a by pass kit. Or I do a full delete and remote oil cooler at the same time and the last one I had done back in the summer was around $1250 for everything, egr delete kit and new remote oil cooler. This stuff is done without having to remove the cab. The only reason the cab is removed is to do the head gaskets. It takes WAY less time to raise the cab than it does to pull the engine. |
|
| |
|
Location: Central Arkansas | Something to consider also, is where you live. We lived inside the DC beltway when hubby was stationed at Walter Reed , had a gas crewcab dually and 3H 8' LQ. We had a hell of a time getting into gas stations! Even some of the truckstops had poor access to gasoline pumps if you were towing a trailer! That was in 86 and we switched to diesel at that time since we could get the trailer in where they fuel the big trucks. Plus that big 454 only got about 7mpg when the trailer was loaded! |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 134
| Hi, This is mainly a question for HTB. We have a 2004 Ford with the 6.0 engine. We have had a lot of problems with it and the latest seems to be electrical. My husband will be going down the road and the whole truck will just shut off. Totally dead in the water. We have had it in to Ford numerous times and they can't seem to get it fixed. This truck has under 100k on it mainly because we can't keep it out of the shop. We have gone through three turbos, etc, etc. When this truck runs right, my husband loves it. Which is hardly ever. Sorry. I don't mean to be a truck basher , because my husband loves his fords. This truck is driving us nuts. HTB any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406
Location: Minneapolis, MN | I'd check the FICM. |
|
| |
|
 Elite Veteran
Posts: 662
Location: Vanzant, Missouri | Does the truck throw a code? I had problems with mine and it would loose power but never died in route.But when it did it again it threw a code and it was the FICM. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 10
| I thought I was going to get a lot of opinions here and I sure did. Although, it looks like there's a good subject matter expert in hogwash - can I e-mail you personally and get some tips? I feel overwhelmed doing trying to buy a truck on my own. Thank you all for the input. I do appreciate all the comments and especially the advise. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1351
Location: Decatur, Texas | Originally written by liv to ride on 2010-12-04 10:02 AM
Hi, This is mainly a question for HTB. We have a 2004 Ford with the 6.0 engine. We have had a lot of problems with it and the latest seems to be electrical. My husband will be going down the road and the whole truck will just shut off. Totally dead in the water. We have had it in to Ford numerous times and they can't seem to get it fixed. This truck has under 100k on it mainly because we can't keep it out of the shop. We have gone through three turbos, etc, etc. When this truck runs right, my husband loves it. Which is hardly ever. Sorry. I don't mean to be a truck basher , because my husband loves his fords. This truck is driving us nuts. HTB any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! As the others asked, are you getting any codes at all? Even if the check engine light is not on, you could still have a code stored in the trucks computer. I would check all 4 battery cables first to make sure they are CLEAN and tight, then have the injector control module checked. This can be check with a Snap on type scanner on the truck. This is located between the battery and inner fender on the drivers side (silver box with 3 plugs on the automtic trucks and 2 on the 6 speed trucks) Also check the connectors to make sure they are plugged in and locked down. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 186
| Thank you for advise. I had a new glow plug relay put in. yes the Ford mechanic said hard shift could be a solinoide, but it doesn't show up on the diagnostic machine. forgott to mention the problems with the fuel filter leaking, we seem to have that fixed. It is parked now for the winter, how often do you reccommend it be started while stored? |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1351
Location: Decatur, Texas | Originally written by gliderider on 2010-12-05 6:22 PM
Thank you for advise. I had a new glow plug relay put in. yes the Ford mechanic said hard shift could be a solinoide, but it doesn't show up on the diagnostic machine. forgott to mention the problems with the fuel filter leaking, we seem to have that fixed. It is parked now for the winter, how often do you reccommend it be started while stored? If it was the sil. in the tranny it would show a code on a scanner. So I would start back at the buzz/ contribuititon test to make sure the glow plugs, injectors and wiring under the valve covers is in good working order. If the test shows an injector or glow plug to be weak or bad have them check the wiring harness where the valve cover plugs in going to that side to see if there is any oil in the plug. It should be dry and clean..... Something else on the filter leaking, if it is still leaking there is a sensor on the side of the filter housing that has o-rings on it that also start leaking. The storage question would all depend on how cold it is getting, I would start it and drive it at least once a week or every 10/15 days. Not saying drive it cross country, just drive it a few miles or off to the store or to get feed. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406
Location: Minneapolis, MN | Originally written by gliderider on 2010-12-05 6:22 PM
Thank you for advise. I had a new glow plug relay put in. yes the Ford mechanic said hard shift could be a solinoide, but it doesn't show up on the diagnostic machine. forgott to mention the problems with the fuel filter leaking, we seem to have that fixed. It is parked now for the winter, how often do you reccommend it be started while stored? Unless you drive it enough to bring the engine temp up into the normal range...leave it parked for the winter. Condensation in the oil is a bigger issue than having it sit. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Put the grill cover on and it will help you get up to operating temperatures...if you do decide to let it sit the winter and make sure you do an oil change first thing in the spring...hopefully you are running synthetic... |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 134
| Thank you for the advice HTB. Really appreciate it. We'll try what you suggested. |
|
| |
Truck Advice F250 Diesel
