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Member
Posts: 26
| Hi everyone- I just purchased my first towing vehicle (yay!), a 1999 Chevrolet Suburban for my small two-horse bumper pull. The guy who owned the truck before me put in a bunch of towing extras, such as a cold air intake, air shocks, and a brake controller. However, it appears the controller that's in the truck is a Jordan Actuator (identical to the Drawtite Activator), which is a time delayed controller. I've read that I should get a proportional controller, such as a Prodigy, to tow safely. That being said, how do I go about replacing it? There are four wires coming out of the back of the controller - yellow, blue, red, and white. (Although I'm curious as to whether I'm remembering correctly as it seems that it should be black, not yellow?) There may have been another harness hanging down next to the controller that looks like it could be related to the brake controller. Do I just remove the wires from the Actuator and go from there, or what? (Obviously disconnecting the battery first, of course! ;)) Thanks in advance! -KC | |
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Veteran
Posts: 229
| classact, people, I included, have towed safely for years with the type of controller which you have. I still have one on one of my trucks. That being said, for the other truck, which hauls about 10k, I bought a Prodigy. And, yeah, I do like it. It's especially nice if a person has several different weights of trailers to haul with the same truck. I don't do the sparky thing, but the guys will chime in soon and help you out. | |
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Expert
Posts: 1416
Location: sc | Does it look like this; http://www.bestbrakecontroller.com/ It shouldn't have four wires if it is an actual Jordan, but you mention "another harness hanging down next to the controller". I would follow the second harness and see if it connects to the brake pedal. If you have a Jordan, you don't need to change it. Otherwise you'll just have to ID the wires by function with a test light. | |
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Member
Posts: 26
| Nope, it's definitely not that one in the link. It looks like this guy: http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy143/MIEric_photos/2100Brakecontrolleradjusted.jpg (Not my actual controller. ) | |
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Expert
Posts: 1416
Location: sc | Oh well, I would just cut the old one out and grab the test light. Should have two smaller gauge wires and two larger. Smaller 'should' be the stop light and ground, big ones 12v and trailer circuit. No matter the wire size, you should have one hot all the time, one hot/cold with application of brake pedal, then you can jump the test light from the 12v to the wire you suspect is the ground...should light. If you touch the 12v to the trailer circuit (not hooked to trailer) nothing should happen. | |
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Member
Posts: 26
| OK, cool. I don't have a test light but I do have a multimeter... I assume this will do the trick? :) | |
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