|
|
Regular
Posts: 69
Location: Washington DC | I am hoping someone can lay a little insite on me when it comes to my propane appliances. I have a 4'SW 04 Exiss that I am finishing into a weekender. The problem is that space is at a premium so I am thinking of stacking my 2 way Refer on top of the propane heater (on an angle iron frame) This would keep all the propane in the same location and I would only have to vent in one location as well. I don't think it would be a problem if the stand to lift the refer is built solid and bolted to the floor and cross members underneith. Does anyone see an issue with this? Would the heat give my refer fits? I have a Hydroflame out of a a 5th wheel trailer and a Norcold 2 way refer. The heater is similar to the Suburban or Atwood type models that are out there now, I got it on the cheap from a guy gutting his 5th wheel that got vandalized and some h2O damage. |
|
|
|
Veteran
Posts: 233
Location: Pataskala, Ohio | I don't know if it will cause an issue with the frige, but I do know that my heater makes the area under the couch very warm when I have to run the heat. My frige is built atop the water heater so it gets warm as well.
Edited by Jeepplr 2010-08-20 10:42 PM
|
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406
Location: Minneapolis, MN | Recall that the cabinet that the fridge is housed in is sealed. Air tight around except for the vents areas. That air tightness serves two purposes. 1) prevents a LP leak from "pooling" on the floor. In practice, a leak for a LP fridge would escape out the lower vent. also for the fridge to work properly, there needs to be a convective air current that passes over the condenser tubing. So I'd build a cabinet to house the heater, where the top of the heater cabinet would also serve as the floor for the fridge. Build the proper size cabinet to house the fridge.....install the side wall vents, or roof and sidewall vent, according to the manufacturer. I think you'll be good to go. |
|
|
|
Regular
Posts: 69
Location: Washington DC | Thanks Wyndncr, I was planning on using the heater access panel as the intake vent for the fridge. that way if there was an LP leak it would drop to the floor and out the heater access vent, thus no pooling. Do you think that the heat from the heater would cause issues with the coils on the fridge though? Do you know if there is minimum clearance around the heater like on an LP frige. I havent found the installation instructions yet. I bought it used so I will have to download them from the net. |
|
|
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 406
Location: Minneapolis, MN | If I recall correctly...most of the furnace's are nearly zero clearance, except around the exhaust/intake. Of course there are minimum clearance for access and air return. You need to understand that the bottom vent on the fridge is for access to the igniter, pilot light, 12v/110v wiring. If it was me....I'd keep them all separate. The venting on the RV fridge is pretty critical to their operation. |
|
|