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New User
Posts: 2
| New member to this forum so I apologize up front if this has been covered elsewhere. I have a 2008 2 horse Hawk which I pull with a 2002 Ford F250. First one of the top side running lights stopped working. I was advised to check the ground connection, which is a screw, under the light. I did and found that screw to be loose so I tightened it. Now all of the side running lights at the top of the trailer have stopped working. The front running lights, those over the wheels, turn signals, brakes lights all still work. I checked all of the truck fuses related to lights and towing and all are OK. Any ideas on what is wrong and how I can fix? Warning, I am not mechanically inclined so give any instructions in easy to understand wording. Thank you. |
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Location: Where the wind comes sweepin' down the plain... | Could be a ground issue at all lights, but more likely to be that screw is shorting out the wire that powers all of those lights. Could also be a bad light shorting the system. |
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New User
Posts: 2
| If what you say is true, then what should I do? If it's a bad light, I would assume it was the first one that went out. Does that mean all lights would now need to be replaced or just that first one that stopped working? If it's the screw causing all to short, what can I do? Remember, I'm mechanically challenged. |
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Location: Central Arkansas | I would undo what you did. If the other lights come back on, then I would start by replacing that light with the initial issue. |
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Veteran
Posts: 201
Location: Lincoln, NE | My 2000 Hawk is mostly stored outside. The clearance (top of trailer) lights get dirt and gunk inside the cover and sometimes stop working. When you remove the cover is there a lot of dirt? Sometimes just cleaning out the cover and area around the bulb will solve the problem. Jiggle the bulb to see if it'll come on. If not my first response would be to try a new bulb.
The Hawk trailer people are reputed to be very helpful. You might call them at the factory. Around here the local RV service and sales place does a fantastic job with things like that and isn't too expensive.
P.S. I, too, am mechanically challenged. |
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Location: Where the wind comes sweepin' down the plain... | You could check all of the grounds at each light. Fairly easy, just time consuming. I would start by looking inside. Can you see where the screw comes through the skin , or is it covered? If you can see it and it's not touching a wire, you know it's not a short in the wiring. In that case, I would undo whats been done, and replace that one light. It is a fairly inexpensive way to check it. If there is still an issue at that point, I would start chasing down wiring. My bet is, the initial light that you tightened the screw on is the culprit. Good luck! |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | If the screw that was tightened was on a positive lead, it could now be touching the trailer body and grounding the circuit. As was previously stated, start your trouble shooting with that light and that screw. Unless the screw you tightened goes into the body as a ground, it could be a hot wire. I am unfamiliar with Hawk trailer lighting. Most new trailers use LED lighting with plugs and molded terminals for the connectors into wiring harnesses. The older style with replaceable bulbs and individually grounded light assemblies, are more difficult to trouble shoot and fail more rappidly. |
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Hawk trailer running lights
