I was going to ask if it had anything to do with the regen.

I have an 06 and pulled a Logan trailer about the same size and never had any problems

Is this when hauling horses, empty? Loaded?

The horses need to be in the front stalls. I used to use my front stall for hay and such but it made the trailer bounce when the horses were towards the back.

Can you unplug the EGR valve on the 08? If so, how?

Blazing said: Unplug your EGR valve

I have a 6.0  I have searched around and all my links are for the 6.0 sorry not going to be much help on the 6.4L

Below is a picture of my EGR location.

http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/html/Page_037.html

You may find out a bunch of information on this site.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f53/

Look down the bottom of this page.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-08.php

I owned two 06 Ford F-250s and had the same experience with each of them at some point in time.  I was pulling a C&C 3H 10ft LQ.  I currently own a 08 Ford F-350 and pull a Hart 3 horse with a 13ft shortwall.  I have had this experience almost every time I pull the trailer.  It will happen with or without the regen cycle taking place.  Normally you can tap the brakes and slow down for a few seconds and it will get out of it.  I have also been able to accelerate and push it through it as well.  I took one of my F250s in and they replaced the shims on the driveshaft and it helped from what I can remember.  I have not really worried about it on this last truck.

DPF is not covered by that warranty since the DPF is considered a wearing item.  So when they finally clog up and need replacement (I've heard 100k-150k miles) Ford will charge you $1300 to replace it.

That said, the difference in cost between 16mpg vs. 12mpg is $3125 every 50k miles.  That pays for the DPF removal and still leaves a chunk for repair work that is less likely to happen in the first place without all that fuel washing down the cylinders.  It could also be argued that warranty work on diesel engines isn't ideal because the repair procedures don't always fix the problem, they just replace the broken part (leaving a minor time bomb for you after warranty is up).  When you fix it on your own coin you can take full advantage of specialist knowledge to not just fix it but make it better.

May also have something to do with the "inertia" brake controller, that is, if that's the type of controller that you use. Once it starts, it starts the rocking/bucking and the inertia brake controller starts to activate, on, off, on, off, etc....

Did the Hart trailer have electric over hydraulic brakes, or straight electric?

What kind/type of brakes does your Trails west have?

Does the truck have the factory Ford brake controller?

Ya'll got me wondering, cause I pull some of everything with my 3500 Chevrolet and have never experienced the problem your talking about. I got no air bags, Timbrens, extra overload spring and I run stock size tires......

Sorry, but I could not say out of this one.  I tried to get Dave to post a link a few months ago for some helpful information for diesel trucks.

Ford diesel information http://www.powerstroke.org/.

Dodge diesel information http://www.cumminsforum.com/.

Has any and everything you need to know about all of these diesel engines and related equipment including the new egr system and the DPF junk.

Yes, you can unplug the egr, but without a progammer you will have a check engine light!

Originally written by genebob on 2010-04-02 7:49 PM

HTB- May I echo Gard and say "WELCOME BACK!" I was just thinking about you again the other day. Had a feeling you were still out there. Please get involved and post more often again.

Thanks to both of ya'll.

Still here and after seeing this one about a diesel truck issue, I couldn't keep out.

Their truck is fine!

I just got my 04 Ford F-350 with the 6.0 diesel outta the shop..the bucking/back firing  was carbon build up  in the turbo ..the mechanic ( a friend of ours) says he does 2-3 a week for this problem..the ports inside either stick open or closed..he did a major clean up and I have to say the truck is running like a scalded dog now...WAHOOO !!  I hooked up and hauled yesterday to ride with friends and she ran like she did when we first got her...  so now I am ready to "hit the trails"....  :)

Did he let you know what causes this problem?  If not, I will.....  EGR mess on these trucks are the MAIN problem causing turbo soot build up, then second on the list in improper oil or oil changes.

hey i am new on here and i read posts all the time, so i had to join to become part of this thread.  i have an 08 F250 with the 6.4 motor and i love it so far.  like others have said all the epa crap theat they put on trucks now its hard to make them work the way they should. i go on powerstrokenation.com to educate myself on these trucks, and i am currently saving to delete the dpf and get some tunes. but until then i have pulled some weight with the truck and it has handle it well. i am so excited for the day when i delete this epa junk, gain about 4 mpg and more power. spartan, h&s black maxx, and sct with eric's custom tunes are the only true programming that will not kill the truck.  also on a side note i was told not to go over 5k miles for oil changes especially on the 6.0 because with the heui injection system which uses engine oil to operate the injectors it gets abused much more than a common rail set up.  and as far as turbos go that are variable geometry it is good to put your foot into it (unloaded) to make the vanes move their full range of motion. that way it is more difficult for junk to build up in there. sorry i rambled on but i hope i put some good info out there. good luck

First off the 5-k is up to the person, driving conditions and oil being used.  My personal truck (07.5 Dodge Ram with the 6.7 motor) before I did the DPF delete and programmer I would only go 4-k miles because the oil would get so nasty, now that I have the upgrades I am going on 6-k miles and the oil still looks good.

On the 6.0 trucks I started using a syn. oil because of the injectors on these trucks.  I noticed before that in the colder weather I would get a little smoke and rough idle on start up but after changing to syn oil they start up with no smoke and run smooth. 

Check out powerstroke.org also.

We drove our Dodge over the weekend unloaded with a combination of hwy and city and after 1 full tank hand figured I got 18.9mpg.  Not bad for a 1 ton quad cab that weighs 8800lbs and that is with the H&S programmer set on a 120hp.

The ERG systems on these trucks are crap.  I really find it hard to believe that bio fuel caused the problem, you would start having trouble in the fuel system before you would in the turbo.  Bio fuel is really HARD on the Ford injectors.  However the egr would cause turbo issues because they recirulate spent exhaust gases back through the engine.

One sure fire way to prevent the turbo from building up soot/carbon would  be really blow it out every once in a while and the main thing is to let it run a few mins before you turn it off to let the turbo cool down after long drives or when towing this will really cook the oil and crap that the turbo collects if you just turn it off right away.

Glad to here you got it fixed, most people would start calling names and throwing things at them......

Read my other post for some details I give you to help solve the problem later.

Go to www.powerstroke.org.  They have one section just for the 6.4L trucks.

What leads you to believe you may have or maybe having injectors issues with you 6.4?  From what I am understanding about these engines, they have some of the best injectors Ford has offered, unlike the 6.0's which a really touchy.

The problems with the 6.4's is more with the egr and DPF causing the truck to go into regen mode from soot or carbon getting build up on the turbos and in the DPF.  The regen is to make the computer run the truck at a higher rpm and run hotter to burn off the extra.  The problem is most of the time is the regen does not stay on long enough or the truck is turned off before the regen is completed and the soot or carbon then bakes on the turbo and DPF causing the build up over time.

Additive:  Actually in my opinion you should not be having to use much if any at all.  Maybe some power service (white bottle) in the winter months but not every tank.

I understand how that can happen.  When I first seen your post a looked over all of the replies and see a few talking about their 6.0 trucks, which you can not compair.

Attend too?  In my opinion if you are going to leave your truck 100% stock with the egr and DPF, I would drive it alitte harder.  Not meaning go race it or drive like a teenager while loaded.  Drive it harder and while on the hwy don't be afraid to step on it now and then to pass someone. (or in english do not drive like you are on a Sunday drive with nowhere to go)

Or If it was mine, I would rid of the extra mess and enjoy the better preformance and fuel mileage.  That's what I did with our Dodge and no more regen. 

What this means is it makes the truck run like Ford should have done to start with.  If you know alittle about working on vehicles you can do it.  These kits removes the DPF, unplugs (or turns off with the programmer) the egr and installs a programmer (which can be left on the stock hp setting) to program the computer  for the aftermarket adjustments.

Yes, actually it would void your warranty, but only if you take it to a dealer for service with the adjustment left on the truck.

My trucks I do all of the work on myself.  But the kit I use it takes me and 1 buddy just under an hour to return it back to stock with no signs of adjustments, then after the warranty work is done it takes the same hour to reinstall the good stuff..

My fuel mileage gains it well worth the price.  I went from around 15mpg unloaded to 18.9 with a combination of driving in town and hwy.  Yes all hand figured mileage!  I have not actually figure my mileage loaded yet, but I do have way more power and do not have to use my tow/haul mode any longer.

Thank You,

Finally some that knows what I am talking about......  One thing, on the injector issue, the "big 3" has said "that the newer DPF equiped trucks have injectors that are designed to run on ultra low fuel with no problems"

Which I am like you and I find that hard to believe, but still would not use any type of fuel treatment with the DPF still installed on the truck unless I just absolutly had too.....

Same goes for older trucks but just the other way.  The older trucks need more lube so it is almost a must to run some sort of treatment all the time.  I know my older Ford IDI trucks start leaking fuel around the o-rings and loss power if I do not use a treatment (tranny fluid) or farm fuel in it, then as soon I the treatment or farm fuel runs through the system everything s back to normal again.

So we must thank the dear ol' EPA for their lack of help.

Kelley

I use synthetic oil in my 7.3 PSD crankcase, and one quart of synthetic 2 cycle oil per fuel fill up. (aprox 30 -35 gals). I am curious about your usage of "tranny fluid". You're speaking of ATF? Do you know of any comparison testing of the various brands/types ?

I was on a web site that compared various fluids added to fuel as lubricants. My favourite, Marvel Mystery Oil, did poorly and I subsequently switched to the 2 cycle oil, based on the results of the testing.

Is ATF better than a 2 cycle oil for a top cylinder and injector lubricant? My PSD is an older motor with no emissions.

Thanks.   Gard

6.4 with a Spartan tune and DPF cat delete pipe.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F701EJ60EUM

YES, regular ATF...  The only test that I seen lately was done by DIESEL POWER MAG a few months back.  You can go to their website and see the details dieselpowermmag.com.  They had 2 actual fuel treatments, ATF and 2 cyl. oil that was tested and use on 1 truck and I believe it was drove 1000 miles per treatment, the 2 cyl oil was better than the tranny fluid but since I am in the used car business I buy oil and transmission fluid by the cases therfor it is cheaper for me to use the ATF.  Plus Dad drove a cattle truck for years in the 70's and ATF is what they used in the big trucks, so I figured it could not hurt.

I also seen a site with different test (can't find it now) and the power service was actually under the ATF and 2 cyl oil.  If I remember right there was a few high dollar brands on top, 2 cyl oil and ATF was just under that followed by power service and marvel oil was toward the bottom.  I will keep looking for the site.  It was really interesting.

Kelley 

gard, here is one site I found, but this one does not show the AFT.

Diesel%20Fuel%20Additive%20V3.pdf

I found this site a while ago

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/oil-fuel-lubricants/127578-adding-marine-2cycle-oil-diesel.html

and

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728

That first one is some good reading.  I really like this part:

That study has been copied all over the Diesel forums, if you have a 6.4L powerstroke or 6.6L powerstroke diesel yes Ford does not recommend any fuel additives; becuase of the increased EGT during DPF burnoff cycle, additives increase the BTU's of diesel fuel.

I called 3 different Ford dealers around here and all 3 deal in not only regular trucks but the fleet side as well and all 3 service managers told me that "Ford really DOES NOT recommend using a treatment in the DPF equiped vehicles but if you feel you need to Ford only recommends the power service in the gray bottle and also extended use of any treatment in these vehicles could cause damage to the DPF and or converter.

Just a forwarded post incase some have not looked at every post!

PowerServices is what we use...and I think IF there wasn't a problem with the diesel fuel ( bio-crap) these products wouldn't be in such demand...even seen an add in the latest Western Horseman issue for PowerServices...

My hubby is a heavy Equipment operator and Mechanic..and this bio-crap has caused more problems than ever on the equipment he operates and maintains...

When the Mercedes diesels first became popular in the states, it was a prescribed maintenance to pull and clean the mechanical injectors every 15K miles. We started recommending Marvel Mystery Oil as a fuel additive to our customers. This resulted in clean injectors, and no cleaning maintenance for well over 50K miles. We also used the oil as a top cylinder lubricant for overhauled gas motors. It was the perfect additive for Corvairs, when the valve lifters would clog and become noisy on start up.

I used the stuff religiously for the next three decades, in my diesel equipment and automobiles, with great success. Always searching for the best lubricants, I read the same test results that were previously stated. I was surprised to learn that while MMO was obviously a good solvent/cleaner, it was not a good lubricant. It was actually a detriment to the lubricosity of the diesel fuel.

Many of the top named supplements are not readily available in our area. Because my four diesels are of the "older" school technology ( not common rail, high pressure) I have elected to use 2 cycle oil as a fuel supplement, again based on the results of this posted testing.

I have never had a mechanical problem or failure, of any of my diesel equipment while using the MMO. Because I don't have the funds or desire to replace their expensive components, I will use whatever is available to enhance their longevity. I hope the oil is what I need to achieve my goals.

We've run this in all of our engines for 40 years, gas and diesel. No sure how well it works in all these new fangled, high pressure fuel systems.

http://lubesolutions.com/lets/elube.html

These old Kohler and B/S air cooler gas engines are notorious for sticking valves. A drink stopper/cap of this about every ten hours of operation and the problem is solved.