Veteran
Posts: 270
 
Location: Roanoke IL | I took my truck (2002 chevy 3500 6.6 dually) in to have a checkup. They told me my front brakes were getting close to needing replaced, but the rear ones were still pretty okay. This makes sense because the front brakes do more work. They said I could just replace the front pads and rotors if I wanted to. Is this ok? Next, I'm trying to figure if there is a better sort of rotor and brake pad for towing heavy loads. (Yes, I have trailer brakes too). I see all sorts of slotted, dimpled, etc. types of rotors that seem geared for performance. I'm not sure what type of performance though...my truck ain't no street rod. The dealership quoted me a price of $250 for fronts and $450 for rears. A little brake/muffler/tire place quoted $450 for just fronts!!! Hmmm. I know enough mechanic friends that could probably replace my front ones for next to nothing if I provided the parts. I just want to get something that's going to serve my purpose. OR....would I be better to just take it to the dealer and have them put the stock type back on. If I get super good pads and rotors up front, but do nothing with the rear at this time (gotta drop the axle to change pads) will that ruin anything? Amanda |
Expert
Posts: 5870
 
Location: western PA | The OEM GM brake rotors are junk. The material is so poor, that it's usually not worth turning them when the pads are exchanged. You are lucky to get any significant mileage out of them. If you go to a dealer for replacements, they will install the same quality. NAPA and other good parts stores, has available several different rotors that exceed the OEM quality, for costs less than the dealerships. There are also various high performance rotors that are available for expensive budgets. Unless you are into hauling particularly heavy loads in mountainous areas, a stock style replacement rotor will suffice. Ceramic pads are also available. I recently switched to this material on several vehicles. While I don't notice any appreciable difference in braking ability, they are quiet, give an excellent pedal feel and have shown almost no wear in about 10K. Changing the pads and rotors is within the abilities of any certified mechanic. An individually run shop usually charges less than a dealership, and you can purchase the parts for far less than from the dealers. Do not buy the cheap Chinese knock off parts. Especially with brakes, you want an excellent quality replacement part. A good counter parts man can advise you which products are the best for your money. The mechanic installing the parts is also cognizant of the quality, and when he doesn't work for a dealership, he would be less likely to promote the factory brand. "If I get super good pads and rotors up front, but do nothing with the rear at this time (gotta drop the axle to change pads) will that ruin anything?" No it won't Gard
Edited by gard 2010-01-23 12:34 PM
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Regular
Posts: 92
Location: Harrisburg, PA | Changing brake pads and rotors is the way to go. There's not much else to change, unless the pad shims are rusting out. If it's not the first time the brakes have been replaced I'd buy a set of "brake hardware" (shims and springs and stuff) to go with it.If you have a certified mechanic friend who is willing to change brakes for a case of beer or bottle of good liquor, I would absolutely do it. Dealers make a lot of money on changing brakes, both the labor and parts mark-up. You can put your money into buying better parts or performing a more thorough service. I'm not a chevy dually owner but looking at tirerack.com, they have Hawk ceramic pads and Centric "blank" rotors that look pretty good. (I avoid rotors with slots and drilled holes). Ceramic pads are usually a nice upgrade over stock pads.For another case of beer, I strongly recommend having your friend bleed the whole brake system. It's been 8 years for that brake fluid and if you're towing you don't want to use the same brake fluid forever.The only risk with using different pads on the front and rear is brake bias imbalance. In other words, the fronts and rears are not sharing the braking load the way they should. This is really only an issue with high performance cars that have finely chosen brake bias, not trucks designed to operate with varying payload. Note that different types of brake pads can feel different through the brake pedal. This is normal. Your new pads may require a little more or less brake pedal pressure to slow the truck the same amount (this is referred to as "bite"), do not confuse this with the actual ability to stop the rig. Good pads for towing will provide consistent stopping friction even on a hot day running a long downhill.
Edited by dgeesaman 2010-01-24 9:11 AM
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Replacing Truck Brakes
