Werm floor or rubber mats?
christiancowboy
Reg. Jan 2007
Posted 2009-12-20 3:34 PM (#114418)
Subject: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Werm floor or rubber mats? I like a werm floor, neve had one. But I have been told that horses can paw them up, Has anyone had this problem?
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brushycreekranch
Reg. Jun 2006
Posted 2009-12-20 3:57 PM (#114419 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?





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Bothof my current trailers have WERM floors in them. Clean out the savings, hose them down and they look brand new! LOVE IT!
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luckysid1
Reg. May 2009
Posted 2009-12-20 6:11 PM (#114425 - in reply to #114419)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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would never buy anoher trailer without W.E.R.M.
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gaitedwasfated
Reg. Oct 2009
Posted 2009-12-20 7:03 PM (#114427 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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I have seen one trailer with it pawed right down to the aluminum but I think that's pretty uncommon. I also was wondering if anyone uses mats with their WERM flooring.
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genebob
Reg. Nov 2007
Posted 2009-12-20 10:43 PM (#114430 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Put a WERM floor in ours in September. Love the fact that I didn't have to pull any mats before storing for the winter. I would think that if a horse paws, it would wear a rubber mat out just as easily. Werm does have a warranty.
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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2009-12-20 11:28 PM (#114432 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Talk to Richard at Select Trailer 931-685-4040. He's an expert installer of Werm products.
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whitewood
Reg. Jun 2009
Posted 2009-12-21 2:54 PM (#114445 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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I have a 2005 4star w/werm floor. I thought it was slick and didn't think it was soft enough. I just added mats and it works good
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Trails02
Reg. Feb 2005
Posted 2009-12-22 9:28 AM (#114457 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Wouldn't have a trailer without Werm flooring. We have it in our two horse and LQ. Saves your back and moisture doesn't collect like it does between the floor and rubber mats. This can corrode or rot one's floor. We use our two horse more than the LQ so we put a "thin" rubber mat over the werm flooring but you wouldn't need to. Just hose it out and it looks like new! It seals the floor into one solid, waterproof unit. If there is a lot of manure when you haul, and think it might get slick, just put a small amount of shavings at the horses rump and you can sweep it out easly. A lot less maintenance when you don't have to pull up heavey mats all the time. Love it.
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DD_TrailerMan
Reg. Jul 2008
Posted 2009-12-22 10:37 AM (#114458 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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I haven't used WERM before but what is the advantage over Rumber? 

Bartley Heath
bartley@DoubleDTrailers.com
Buy Factory Direct at DoubleDTrailers.com

 

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genebob
Reg. Nov 2007
Posted 2009-12-22 11:14 AM (#114460 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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WERM is a rubber coating that is permently applied to to the floor of your trailer. As was stated before, it seals the floor so that you do not ever have to worry about moisture under the mats. No corrosion, wood rot or even that dreaded urine smell all the time. You also never have to wrestle with heavy mats in or out. Just sweep and hose.

My understanding (and I am probably wrong), is that rumber is a composite material that is actually the floor, much like permanent decking for your house.

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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2009-12-22 11:46 AM (#114462 - in reply to #114460)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Originally written by genebob on 2009-12-22 12:14 PM

WERM is a rubber coating that seals the floor so that you do not ever have to worry about moisture under the mats. No corrosion,

 A Werm coating may reduce the occurrence of corrosion on the floor's top surface, but it will not eliminate the moisture from entering through any orifice from below. Most truthful Werm dealers, will explain how some of their installations have had partial adhesion problems, with spot repairs of delaminations not being uncommon.

When the Werm delaminates, moisture can enter between the spaces and become trapped. If this is urine, its corrosive affects will be severe as the fluid can't be flushed, and it will not be able to dry out. A delamination can be caused by a pawing horse over an area of poor bonding.

If the werm is applied over a used floor, the preparation before the Werm installation is critical. Not only should the area be spotless, but the flooring should be acid washed to stop any present corrosion. Werm can hide these flaws, until the metal starts to manifest small spots that grow into holes. These will form through the metal, visible on the bottom of the flooring, not perceptive from above, but nevertheless, very present.

Werm is installed over a specialized primer. How well that primer adheres to the aluminum, will depend on how long lasting your flooring will be. The Werm product is very good. The quality of the installation will determine its life span.

Gard

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Jaas
Reg. Mar 2009
Posted 2009-12-23 9:29 AM (#114478 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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I know I've posted on this subject before, and agree with Gard.  I like the thinner coatings on the floor, so you can see if it chips off.  I had a cheaper sundowner bedliner material lay unbonded on my trailer for years.  The trapped urine corroded my aluminum floor.  I still like to be able to actually see the floor, through a thin coating and repair myself if necessary.  Just like the Sundowner problem, loose thick unbonded coating traps chemicals (urine,salt) underneath them hiding the problem and you don't know it until it is too late.  I do NOT have a werm floor in my trailer, so can not tell you from first hand experience. 

From an installers website....

"WERM makes your trailer a safer place for your horses. It makes cleanup a snap and comes with a 2 year limited warranty.

Installed, by appointment, here at our location. Typical pricing is approximately $1,150 for a three horse trailer and $1,450 for a four horse trailer. To set up an appointment or for more details, contact us at ..............."

 

Sounds like a lot of money to me, for a 2 year limited warranty.  Almost any coating I've heard of does NOT warranty wear, only adhesion.  If the werm product is soft enough not to use mats, it will be prone to wear.  If the werm floor is hard enough to withstand pawing horseshoes, it will still need mats to cushion the horse.

I am not an expert, but believe that nothing on a horse trailer is maintanace free.  Sometimes pulling mats and washing a trailer floor, inspecting them, is necessary.  I like having the option of doing that, instead of hiding the floor.

 

 

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Painted Horse
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2009-12-23 11:43 AM (#114483 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?



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Bartley,

Rumber is recycled tires. So it is a rubber product.  The tires are ground up and re-processed into planks and sheets. It is an option in several makes of trailers.  They use Rumber planks ( basically 2x6 planks) for the floors and Rumber sheets ( 1/4" thick) for the walls.  When they use it for the floor. They screw it down to the joist just like you would a lumber plank. Usually with a small gap between planks for expansion and to allow the urine to run out. Rumber has a 20 year warranty. The trailers that I have bought with it. Did not come with mats. The manufacture boast that the rumber does not need mats to protect it, It's not slick and offers some deadening of the road vibration due to its make up of rubber.

I had one trailer for 5 years with the rumber floor. I used it a LOT. After 5 years the material looked the same as when I bought the trailer. So it does hold up well. You can learn more about Rumber at their website.

As far as WERM, I have no experience with it and will defer to others who have used it.


 

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Dunoir
Reg. Sep 2005
Posted 2009-12-23 2:15 PM (#114488 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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My first 2 trailers had rumbar floors and I loved it.  The first trailer didn't have a DR, so I sold it after one year and recently saw it on a trail ride.  It's a '95 model and the floor still looks great as does the whole trailer which is a fiberglass composite (kevlar)

The 2nd trailer same brand, but a '97, I kept for 10 years with constant use and the floor still looked great, no gouges, no holes, nothing wrong with it when I sold it.

Rumbar is the BEST flooring you can get.  I wish my current trailer had it....

 

 

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Gone
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2009-12-23 2:22 PM (#114490 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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So why spend the $$$$ on werm? Why not just suck it up and deal with pulling the mats? I'm going to wait......I'm better off putting that money towards better tread.

Edited by Gone 2009-12-23 2:26 PM
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RTSmith
Reg. Nov 2003
Posted 2009-12-23 2:37 PM (#114493 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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  • A WERM floor is basically a permenantly installed rubber mat. This mat will bond with the floor and should not allow anything to become between it & the flooring material (assumed to be aluminum). If there is a hole in the aluminum floor, it will have been patched/sealed/filled before the WERM is installed, as WERM is installed in a liquid form and would thus run through a hole.
  • We've installed a fair amount of WERM. It is not meant to be "better" than anything else- except that there will be no more rubber mats to pull out. This makes it an ideal addition to a higher end unit that has all of the bells and whistles, or those like Retento has- that take a PhD in Muscles & Mattery to pull and clean their mats (yes- please drop by next time you're in the Boro. We'd love to meet you.). But as a mat, it is not lifetime. While many, many folks have had theirs and use it regularly- if you have a Nervous Nellie who has pawed through her mat, she can paw through WERM also. It can however, be repaired by cleaning & adding an additional amount to the hole. It bonds to itself very well. But for it to give the rubber-like cushioning that you need, it will have some wearability. And yes- installation cleanliness is next to Godliness. Most installers prefer to install in a new trailer.
  • Next often comes up the idea of Rumber. We sell a line of trailers that have Rumber flooring and their owners like them. However, Rumber must generally be designed into a trailer from the ground up, and it takes more structure to support it than wood does. Thus it has generally been used as an upgrade to a wood floor, rather than a substitute for aluminum. I may be corrected here, but I don't recall offhand a premium aluminum manufacturer offering Rumber flooring. And I have had some customers who had slickness issues with barefooted broodmares and thus used a mat. So maybe nothing's perfect. But there are many who very much like it.
  • Spray in liner- I know that Gard likes his, and I'm sure that given his prep and attention to detail it is working well. However, most of our experience has been more like the poster above where the liner that Sundowner installed delaminated and allowed unattended urine to collect on the aluminum floor. It doesn't take long to make holes in a floor given that circumstance. Their supplier did not approve its use on aluminum, and the Sundowner warranty didn't cover it. Given the floors we've repaired, we will not install such a product- but that's just our choice. Personally, before I took the risk, I'd just clean it out the traditional way twice a year.
  • Please, take all these notes as strictly my opinion, tossed out to hopefully shed light on these differing options, formed after many years in the business.

RTSmith

http://www.selecttrailer.com/



Edited by RTSmith 2009-12-23 2:40 PM
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RTSmith
Reg. Nov 2003
Posted 2009-12-23 2:41 PM (#114494 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Gone- We have some customers either through older age, or infirmary just cannot handle a 85# rubber mat. But they can spray off a WERM floor. So at least they have an easy, if not inexpensive, alternative that lets them stay in the horse business. As you say, its not for everybody.
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pinkmouse
Reg. Jan 2009
Posted 2009-12-23 2:57 PM (#114500 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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RTSmith - I am neither 'older' or 'infirmed', but those darn mats weigh nearly as much as I do and are awkward to boot!!!!  I actually ended up cutting my mats in half so that I could handle them. If you can't move 'em, you won't clean under them. Not the best solution, but it works for me.

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RTSmith
Reg. Nov 2003
Posted 2009-12-23 3:45 PM (#114504 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Pinkmouse- No offense intended :) I promise!. Was just trying to point out a couple of good reasons for WERM. And the mat cutting- works too. That and some Vice Grips can do wonders to make them manageable.
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retento
Reg. Aug 2004
Posted 2009-12-23 4:05 PM (#114505 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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You ought to try dragging those mats up the trailer ramp while maneuvering a manual wheelchair!!!!!

 

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Gone
Reg. May 2005
Posted 2009-12-23 4:15 PM (#114506 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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I was only thinking of my situation.....werm would be a positive option for others.
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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2009-12-23 4:43 PM (#114508 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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I think there is some confusion over trying to make a direct comparison between a Werm flooring, and the application of a bed liner material, which is a protective coating. The Werm coating which Richard and others has described, is a hard rubber surface, typically a little over half an inch in thickness. Two part, hot sprayed in bed liner materials are typically 1/4" - 3/8" thick. The single part, cold applied product that I use, is a few MM thick, depending on the number of coats that are applied. The Werm offers some padding because it is a rubber product, and it is applied in a thicker coating. Neither of the bed liner products offers any cushioning, as they are hard surface coatings developed in test tubes.

The two part hot sprayed in products of many brands are very durable, as proven by the longevity of the truck beds they routinely protect. This is also true of the single part liners, whose roller installation is within the grasp of most DIYers. However, neither type of coating was designed to withstand the abrasion of a pawing, shod horse. As many people have said, these coatings have to be covered with mats, to protect the liner material from the hooves.

If the flooring surface is properly prepared, all of these products will adhere very well, and will perform as they are intended. Aluminum is a particularly difficult metal on which to apply any surface coating. If you add in the corrosion factor typically found in a used trailer, the proper preparation is even more paramount. Most surfacing failures of aluminum, can be attributed to incomplete or improper preparation. Because many adhesion problems may not manifest themselves right away, a problem may not be noticed until months or years, after the coating was first applied.

I too find it difficult to pull mats. By applying a surfacing agent on the flooring, the aluminum is protected from the corrosive affects of urine. Moisture trapped between the mats and flooring, will no longer start to corrode the metal. I have found on my trailers, that the wet areas infrequently travel more than a third of the way across the flooring from the butt side.

If there is a particularly bad mess, I will first brush out the manure and hose off the top of the mats. Then I will lift the mats' butt end and roll it to the head side. This exposes the wet flooring, which will wash clean with a garden hose. When it dries, the end of the mat is flopped back into place. Normally all that is necessary, is to just brush out the bedding and manure.

I have never had to replace a rubber mat from wear in any of my trailers. Some Werm owners tell of adding mats, to obtain the cushioning the hard rubber didn't afford. By not having to pull the mats anymore, I find this is now a non issue.

The Werm is expensive and well received by some. The spray in liner costs ~$600 for a three horse trailer. A DIY bed liner costs ~$100. I've got four and three years on mine now with no problems. We're in the market for an additional new trailer. As soon as it arrives, I will remove the factory mats, and install the bed liner material. As a result, I don't expect any corrosion problems to the top of the flooring, and our routine maintenance will be as minimal as our other trailers.

These are different materials and they have different uses. As you can see, while they are all coatings, they are not interchangeable.

Gard

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pinkmouse
Reg. Jan 2009
Posted 2009-12-23 5:21 PM (#114510 - in reply to #114504)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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RTSmith - None taken.  I have tried several vice-grip type devices - the weight combined with the awkwardness is just too much!!  LOL 
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genebob
Reg. Nov 2007
Posted 2009-12-23 7:15 PM (#114516 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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As far as the wear concerns, it has been alleged that a pawing horse will wear through the WERM flooring. I look at that and say that is a horse problem that an owner needs to address because it is in fact a bigger problem than the floor itself, especially injury to the horse itself.

Gard, if you are rolling back the mat to wash the floor, what about the urine and urine soaked feces that is on the mat? Also, I have never seen a fluid remain static and not travel on a moving surface.

Also, all the dealers I have talked to have said that WERM flooring will be repaid on a high percentage when you either trade or sell your trailer. So not only is it a labor saver that protects your trailer floor, it is a returnable investment in you trailer.

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gard
Reg. Aug 2007
Posted 2009-12-23 8:44 PM (#114521 - in reply to #114516)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Originally written by genebob on 2009-12-23 8:15 PM

Gard, if you are rolling back the mat to wash the floor, what about the urine and urine soaked feces that is on the mat? Also, I have never seen a fluid remain static and not travel on a moving surface.

"If there is a particularly bad mess, I will first brush out the manure and hose off the top of the mats. Then I will lift the mats' butt end and roll it to the head side. This exposes the wet flooring, which will wash clean with a garden hose. When it dries, the end of the mat is flopped back into place. Normally all that is necessary, is to just brush out the bedding and manure."

 

 

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ridingarocky
Reg. Aug 2008
Posted 2009-12-24 7:24 AM (#114524 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?



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I do not have werm floors in my Hart.  I have gotten Gard's DIY "recipie" and will attempt it at some point.   i have not found anything to prep my floors with before applying the liner.  i do know one lady who has werm in her 4 star and she stated her horse began pawing in the trailer after she bought the werm-coated one.. she applied regular mats on top of the werm and wa-la.. no more pawing.. I think she just rolls her mats to rinse the werm, just like Gard does with his liner.
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mkenngen
Reg. Aug 2005
Posted 2009-12-25 5:49 PM (#114551 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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I've really like my werm floor b/c I know myself and wouldn't take care of the mats like I should. The one downside I've seen is if you've moved away from somewhere with a dealer. I've had mine for 6 years it's it's cracking (seemingly along the slats of the wood floor) and I've had not much luck finding out how to repair it.
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paintcrazytexan
Reg. Feb 2008
Posted 2012-08-22 11:09 AM (#146525 - in reply to #114524)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Ridingarocky, could you please forward the Gard floor method to me?  :)  I have been searching the forums and just cant seem to find it... Or Gard, if you see this, would like the info.. Thanks!
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Bells
Reg. Jun 2007
Posted 2012-08-22 11:26 AM (#146526 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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This is a copy I made of Gard's orginal post (thanks Gard! It worked great:)):

I am often being PM'd and asked about aluminum floor corrosion, how it should be treated and if its maintenance can be reduced. The first issue is some terms that I believe are confusing. Aluminum oxidation and corrosion.

Oxidation is the microscopically thin, naturally occurring surface coating that appears whenever bare aluminum is exposed to the air. This coating is what makes aluminum so resistant to environmental damages. Its oxide has a dull grayish silver colour, and it's this coating that acid washes and "brighteners" remove, to restore the new bare aluminum look. Unfortunately this process again starts as soon as the metal is once again exposed to the air. Only by a coating of waxes or surfactants, can air be kept from the surface, and preventing a reoccurrence of this dulling. The acids commonly used in the washing process, are mild, and clean the metal surfaces. They are usually not strong enough to treat and stop active corrosion.

Corrosion is seen in pitting, some black, some white and often an accumulation of fine powder around the affected area. This is as destructive to aluminum as rust is to ferrous materials. Often too, when a small area is detected, a larger problem is hidden. This has to be chemically or mechanically cleaned and repaired before any covering is placed over it. To not do so would be akin to painting over rotted wood.
The product I chose to coat my trailers' flooring is Duplicolor truck bed liner, commonly sold by auto parts stores and Walmart. If you check the home pages of Herculiner and Duplicolor, you will find both products are very similar in their chemical make up. Since I have not used Herculiner, I can only state that several people have done so, and are pleased with the results. I chose Duplicolor because of is availably at our local Walmart for less than half the advertised, mail order only availability of the Herculiner. My local sales tax is far less than the shipping charges.

To install these products,you have to first chemically stop the corrosion before you can apply any coating over the bare aluminum. This is done by acid etching. I use Muriatic acid that I purchase from Lowes. Sweep the floor and pressure wash if possible, you do not have to scrub any contaminates. Move the trailer to an outside area. Do not apply this acid inside any closed structure, barn or garage. Open all the trailer windows, close the pass thru door to your LQ. One or several box fans aimed appropriately are also good option.

Muriatic acid is mild and effectively stops active corrosion. If the corroded areas penetrate the thickness of the metal, they have to be mechanically cleaned out with drills or a rat tail file until the area shows only bright metal. Two part epoxies can be used as fillers (JB Weld or equivalent) and can fill smaller holes; larger repairs should be made using an aluminum welding apparatus. If the smaller holes are first reamed with a countersink, it will give more strength to the repair.
YOU MUST USE A CHEMICAL RESPIRATOR TO APPLY THIS ACID. It costs about $40 and incorporates a charcoal filter. A dust mask is worthless with the resulting fumes. Wear old shoes, long pants, gloves and safety glasses.
Pour a liberal coating of some acid on about a third or quarter of the floor area, and quickly spread it around with a short bristle brush and long handle. I use a roof coating brush. You will immediately see fumes rise from the floor; leave the trailer quickly. The acid will start showing bubbles after a minute or two. After about 10 - 15 minutes you will see an even foam of bubbles, with the most reaction being where the floor was the most corroded and dirty. Re-enter the trailer and agitate the wetted area with the broom and leave it for another 5 minutes. Rinse the floor with water and inspect the area, spot reapplying as necessary until the floor is an even color, and there is no black or brown spots in the corroded areas. The cracks and seams between the floor planks, should be especially treated with a fair amount of acid. Unseen corrosion can be trapped in these areas, and will ruin a new coating if not adequately treated.

Do another third and the last the same way, working towards the door as you go. When you're done flood the floor several times with water. Let it dry overnight and the next day you can apply your coating. On aluminum, by acid washing the area, you are providing a clean, ready surface to be coated. It is now etched and corrosion free. On steel, the Duplicolor manufacturer recommends that all the areas are sanded, abraded and cleaned before any application. Read all of the manufacturer's instructions for the proper procedures.

The Duplicolor manufacturer recommends two coats of coverage. On a three horse trailer with a rear tack, one gallon will give you a two coat coverage. I bought two gallons and put down three coats, and kept the rest for other projects. The large brush is used to apply the product around the edges of the floor. A paint roller, now equipped with the same handle used with your roofing brush, will make short work of applying the subsequent coats of new bed liner material.

Several seasons ago I treated the aluminum stall floor of our new to us, Sidekick trailer with this product. Two years ago I similarly coated the aluminum flooring of an Exiss used trailer we had just purchased. Neither trailer had been acid washed by their previous owners. Since then, at the end of each season, the only maintenance to the floors has been to roll the mats over and hose the floor down. The coating continues to look new, and with the mats on top, has no chaffing issues. I also coated the steel dump bed of our utility vehicle. This liner is constantly being subjected to all sorts of abrasion, urine, manure, stones, dirt and after three years, shows no wear or chipping.

Two gallons of "Duplicolor", one gallon of acid, a roller cover, and one cheap paint brush, costs about ~$100. Actual work time is two or three hours, the rest is waiting for things to dry. A four horse trailer floor could be easily coated with two gallons (three coats).
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/bedArmor/
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paintcrazytexan
Reg. Feb 2008
Posted 2012-08-22 3:44 PM (#146535 - in reply to #146526)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Thank you! for the post...

 

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paintcrazytexan
Reg. Feb 2008
Posted 2012-08-22 3:53 PM (#146536 - in reply to #146526)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Thank you!
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Bells
Reg. Jun 2007
Posted 2012-08-24 2:38 PM (#146578 - in reply to #114418)
Subject: RE: Werm floor or rubber mats?


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Thank Gard!!
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