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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 391
Location: Columbia, KY | we just bought a cute little 1995 Hart alum. BP. it's been sitting a while but overall is in very good shape. I drove it home in the dark, over bridges and thru tunnels praying to the tire gods the 15 yr old tires wouldn't blow! it's gonna be a fun project, getting it spiffed back up. first thing we did was get new tires, which was a relief. it needs brakes worked on, and wheel bearings repacked, etc. the ramp makes a very loud squeel/screech when lifted up and down. it moves easily enough tho. It's so loud I could hear it from across a 4 acre pasture yesterday. my husband oiled everything that could be oiled and said probably something is bent, we're hearing metal on metal and probably not much we can do- does that sound right?? maybe it's the rod that goes thru the hinges or something? if we can't get it work any quieter I'll have to do some serious groundwork w/ the horses around the trailer first cause the little darlings will freak out when they hear it! any suggestions/advise? thanks! |
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Expert
Posts: 3802
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | Keep oiling and working it... May need disassembling, cleaning and lubing with some Mobil 1 synthetic grease. That Mobil 1 will also work really well in those old dry wheel bearings... https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_1_Synthetic_Grease.aspx
Edited by retento 2009-09-07 11:19 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 391
Location: Columbia, KY | thanks, are there bearings someplace in the hinge? |
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Expert
Posts: 2957
Location: North Carolina | Get some oil into the space where the springs bear against the ramp and also against the trailer frame. As the ramp is moved, the spring ends rub with heavy pressure. Then exercise your arms by lifting the ramp up + down sefveral times to work the oil into the contact areas. |
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Expert
Posts: 5870
Location: western PA | If the mobile 1 Oil Retento mentioned doesn't work, you can also try some specific penetrating oils such as Kroil or Liquid Wrench. Other fluids can also be effective as penetrants; brake, ATF, and hydraulic fluids are also good candidates. Brake fluid is especially good, but do not use it where in might drip onto a painted surface. If by liberally applying the oil to the hinge pin in the middle of each open space, you cannot alleviate the noise, the hinge pins can be driven out and the hinges disassembled and the ramp removed. Then the hinge bosses can be individually drilled and taped for Zerk grease fittings. When the hinges are reassembled, they can then be lubricated using synthetic grease applied with a pressure gun. This will ensure the original problem will not again resurface. Do not put any sort of grease on the hinge parts now. It will only block the application of the oil, necessary to free up the hinge pins. Gard |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 534
Location: Zionsville, Indiana | While you have the rod out of the hinge barrels, ream out the inside of each hinge barrel. We have a special 90 degree drill that we use for this. It is not all that unusual, and we find it even with barrel type door hinges. The barrel hinges are aluminum and the rod is stainless steel (at least that is the case in a Hart) Corrosion over the years is the culprit. The grease zerks are a great idea, but grease sparingly so that the excess does not extrude and pick up dirt and gravel that will cause more problems |
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Expert
Posts: 3853
Location: Vermont | Fluid Film |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 391
Location: Columbia, KY | thanks everyone! so how hard would it be to get the rod out of the hinge barrels? it's a single rod the width of the trailer and seems to be in there pretty solid. think we'll try some super penitrating oils first. I'm not a big fan of ramp trailers but couldn't pass up a good deal! don't most have 2 or 3 seperate rod and hinge assemblies? |
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Expert
Posts: 3802
Location: Rocky Mount N.C. | All I've seen lately has from 4-7 hinge joints with one continous rod that runs all the way across.... This rod may be welded to the outside hinge on the ends. |
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