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Location: Fort White, Fla. | I will be putting up my cabinets in my trailer this week and would like to know what you would recommend to fasten them to the walls I was going to use #10, 1 3/4" to 2" long self tapping screws and maybe some adhesive glue too what do you al think Thanks |
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Location: western PA | Into what, will you be screwing your cabinets ? |
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Location: Fort White, Fla. | into the furring strips and some into the medal frames where it wall allow me to and hopefully all the cabinet will line up to the medal frames |
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Location: Fort White, Fla. | I order the cabinet from Lowe's and they are all plywood construction and they made the base cabinets 21" deep |
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Location: western PA | When you're screwing into wood, counter sunk decking screws, combined with trim washers work very well. The deck screws are much stronger than drywall screws, and using the washers results in a larger, finished bearing surface holding the cabinet. If you are fastening directly into a metal stud, I would recommend countersunk stainless sheet metal screws, used again with finish washers, for the same reasons. It's difficult trying to get stock cabinets to directly align with factory studs. The installation of furring strips located between the studs, allows a greater surface to which you can affix the cabinets, and a better chance of having multiple screw points within each cabinet. Gard |
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| For mine I was going to attach a cut sheet of 3/4 ply behind the cabinets rather than the fir stripping... will this work? I thought it would give the hung cabinets more strength. |
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Location: Fort White, Fla. | Thanks Gard you have been very helpful in my project, this my first gooseneck and never have converted one before so that is why I am asking so many questions to find out what other people are using on there's, I was thinking of using stainless screw with finishing washers but where I live the hardware store doesn't have finishing washers and West Marine Is about 50 miles from me so that is why I what with the self tippers with washers to use but you are right the stainless is the way to go maybe I will order some do you think #10 will hold them, and my firing strips are going horizontal with the framing Thanks |
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Location: Fort White, Fla. | |
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Location: western PA | Originally written by AQHA 123 on 2009-01-21 1:41 AM
For mine I was going to attach a cut sheet of 3/4 ply behind the cabinets rather than the fir stripping... will this work? I thought it would give the hung cabinets more strength. 3/4" will certainly work. I don't know the spacing of your studs, but if it is less than 24" you may consider 1/2' plywood as an alternative. You will save 1/3 the weight and some money as well. Gard |
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Location: western PA | Originally written by Horsemen on 2009-01-21 5:11 AM
Thanks Gard you have been very helpful in my project, this my first gooseneck and never have converted one before so that is why I am asking so many questions to find out what other people are using on there's, I was thinking of using stainless screw with finishing washers but where I live the hardware store doesn't have finishing washers. do you think #10 will hold them, and my firing strips are going horizontal with the framing Thanks Your photos indicate a very professional installation. It looks like you have things well in hand. For the many years I had my boat building business, I used Jamestown Distributors as a source for all my epoxy, hardware and marine products. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Screws%20/%20Bolts&categoryId=188&refine=1&page=GRID They deliver in a couple of days, have a large inventory and excellent quality. A phone call will get you a catalog. If you ask and anticipate a continual need, they will send you their master catalog, which has many more products. #10 screws will hold, and unless the cabinets are unusually heavy, four #8's will also hold most cabinets. BOL Gard |
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Location: Fort White, Fla. | Gard, what type of boat building did you do I have painted yachts and ran a ship yard for over 30 years in Ft Lauderdale Fla. and loved it and then the awl grip got the best of me now I am living in Okeechobee Fla. with my wife and are four horses and four dogs, Thanks for all your help, I'm sure I will have more questions |
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Location: western PA | I built replications of 19th century Adirondack Guideboats, and St. Lawrence River Skiffs in wood, glass, kevlar and carbon fiber. The two part linear polyurethane epoxy paints will definitely kill your taste buds. I had to go to a pressurized mask to survive, similar to the ones we used on aircraft. On the warning label of my last paint order, was the simple statement, "Warning, there is no way this product can be made safe". Horse manure is definitely more "green". With thirty years experience running a ship yard, you can answer my questions! Gard
Edited by gard 2009-01-21 10:23 AM
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Location: Fort White, Fla. | you got it Gard, Al grip is the same as what they paint aircraft but they call it aluma grip there are the same company at less they use to be, I loved those old boats I've been around boats all my life and miss it not the painting but the boats, but I would rather be riding my horses than smelling the fumes |
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Location: Alabama | Gard, my Home Depot sells Sanded Pine plywood which has been sanded *a little* and then what they call Sandply plywood which has been sanded *very* smooth. I will be painting my walls and the Home Depot guy said if I bought the Sanded Pine plywood, I would need to do alot of sanding to get it smooth enough to paint or I could buy the Sandply and would not have to do any sanding...is that correct?
He also said that even though the Sandply was lighter weight than the Sanded Pine, that the Sandply was stronger than the Sanded Pine, is that true?
And yet one more question. No matter which one I go with, do I need to put water seal (or something??) on the side that will be against my furring strips?
Thanks!
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Location: western PA | I'm not familiar with the product "Sandply". When it comes to plywood, generally if two sheets are the same thickness, the one with the most amount of laminates, will be the stronger product. The weakest part of plywood is usually the core material, which is covered with the premium woods. These laminates are usually the thinnest, because of their greater values. If your Sandply, has more plies, it could in fact be stronger than a lesser ply material that is thicker. Baltic Birch plywood is an example of a high strength, multiple ply product. For an interior, it is dubious that you need a high strength product. Instead, a product that is resistant to bending or flexing is your target. Plywood is also sold by the number of finished sides. Sanded smooth on one side is less expensive than both. If the plywood is paint ready, you will save a considerable amount of time not having to prep it for the finish coat. You can also purchase pre finished panels in several species of woods. This has become increasingly popular with cabinet makers, greatly reducing their labour costs, while providing a uniform and durable finish. Generally you will have a vapor barrier that is against the backside of the paneling. When you seal one side of a wood product, it is a good idea to seal the other side as well. This will prevent the uneven absorption of moisture on one side and the eventual warping of the product. This can be paint, shellac, varnish, sealer, anything to prevent water absorption into the back side. BOL Gard |
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Location: Alabama | Thanks so much for the info, Gard. I will find out how many plys the two types of plywoods have. I will definitely go with the already sanded plywood due to the time savings it will give me. I'll also seal the furring side with something.
Wouldn't the stronger wood also be more resistant to bending and flexing? If not, please explain why?
Thanks! |
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Location: Northern Utah | The advantage of using furring strips is the weight savings and ease of application. 4-5 furring strips weigh less than a sheet of 3/4 plywood. A 2" wide trip of wood is much easier to move and position in place than a 4x8 sheet of playwood. The furring strips also allow you to install more insulation in the wall cavity. |
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Location: western PA | Originally written by Rose66 on 2009-01-21 9:56 PM
Thanks so much for the info, Gard.. Wouldn't the stronger wood also be more resistant to bending and flexing? If not, please explain why? Thanks! Yes, I would say the stronger material, would also be more resistant to bending. A stronger ply would also mean you can buy a thinner material, and save some weight. You're welcome BOL Gard |
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| Originally written by Painted Horse on 2009-01-21 9:43 PM The advantage of using furring strips is the weight savings and ease of application. 4-5 furring strips weigh less than a sheet of 3/4 plywood. A 2" wide trip of wood is much easier to move and position in place than a 4x8 sheet of playwood. The furring strips also allow you to install more insulation in the wall cavity. |
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Location: western PA | Look at Horseman's posted photos above in a previous thread. His installation is a good way to add supports. You will still have to add a wall covering before installing the cabinets. |
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