Leslie,

If you plan on the later installation of an air conditioning unit, you might want to consider ordering the roof reinforced from the factory. Many manufacturers have pre installation packages that include wiring and the heavier ceiling structures. It would save you time later, and probably lower your installation costs.

If you're going to have that many electrical appliances, you usually can also order an electrical package that includes interior outlets, a circuit breaker box, and a shore power cord. You can usually specify where you want the receptacles placed and how many you will need.

BOL    Gard

I had posted a reply while at work, but i don't see it here, so, if this comes up twice..Sorry!

Gard, i discussed roof reinforcement and wiring with the salesman today.. not too terribly expensive and when I add the AC, it will be pretty much a drop-in.. I had wanted to add plugs after I'd used it a while so as to best get an idea where I'd need them the most, but interior and (if I wish) exterior plugs would be placed at the time of the wiring.. The salesman also suggested a battery and solar panel, so as to use my lights without being hooked to my car (which, in the case of MY car, the ignition has to be turned on to get trailer lights).. a very good option that is also not too expensive.. a good thing to consider for later.. I've added a lot of options and juggled some things around... Since south Texas is so hard on trailers, I'm undercoating it (here) to protect it from salt (trips to the beach) and I've decided to get WERM flooring.. This should be a pretty cool little trailer when it gets put together.. I haven't ordered it yet.. want to sell my existing  trailer first, and/or work a bunch of extra shifts so as not to have to finance so much...............THERE WILL BE PICTURES!!!

Whomever asked what I'm pulling it with; I drive a Toyota Landcruiser.. pulls max 6000 lbs.. My mare is less than 900 lbs and my daughter's pony is approx 600 lbs.. Except for trips to the vet, there will mostly be a solo passenger in the trailer (mine), so overweight shouldn't be a problem.. I do not yet have a WDH but it's on my short list of to-do's.. ..Eventually I'll upgrade to more pulling power, but don't know when that wiill be..

Leslie

Having a battery and solar charging system will not power your a/c appliances. They will have to be directly supplied off of your shore power cord. It is a much better set up, to have a dedicated trailer battery instead of relying on your tow vehicle. A dead battery in that in the morning, is an unwelcome surprise.

I don't understand your need for undercoating an aluminum trailer. If the bottom is regularly flushed with water, usually the bare aluminum's oxidation is self protecting. I have never experienced your environment, but our winters are messy and involve much road salt. We don't have any significant problems with out using undercoating on the aluminum trailers.

If you take a common lawn sprinkler hooked to a garden hose, you can drive your rig over the sprinkler and flush the bottom of the trailer. This will add years to the longevity of the floor and frame.

BOL  gard

maybe I don't need the undercoating then... I was just trying to think of all I could do to protect my investment. I'm allowing myself to build this trailer just how I want it  (for once!) in hopes that I can use it for a very long time..

My steel frame/alum skin trailer; we are still in the process of sanding the underbody of it and repainting, so as to  prevent further deterioration... We were lucky, we caught it in time, the integrity of the trailer frame has not been compromised... The wood floor and interior is immaculate because I kept it rinsed..

Is it a common practice in your area, with other aluminum trailer owners to undercoat their trailers?

There are different types of undercoating and I'm not an expert on any of them. For a time in our area, an asphalt based coating was used on autos and trucks. As it aged, it would dry out and become brittle, with parts flaking off the metal. Water would enter the void an become entrapped between the two surfaces. This would accelerate the rusting process, and instead of an aid, it would be a detriment.

We purchased a new SUV and had a dealer installed undercoating applied. It was a rubberized paint product, that didn't completely harden. The theory was any stone chips would be covered by the "self healing properties" of the material. At any rate, the warranty covered annual inspections and touch ups as needed.

We don't have the year round salt air you experience, only the winter damage. I would try to find another aluminum trailer owner, that could share his experiences within your area. I would not take the word of a sales person trying to sell either the trailer or the under coating product. Texas is a haven for horse owners, isn't there a nearby club, 4H etc that could help?

Gard

Any protective coating should help. The biggest problem with any undercoating is the damage from stones and road rash. When it's damaged, it looses its effectiveness. If it hardens and leaks, it can trap water and work against you. It can hide the affects of rust and corrosion under its surface.

I think that if you bought any good, name brand, all aluminum trailer and performed constant inspections, you would not need to undercoat it. By being able to easily inspect the frame, you can monitor any potential problems, and correct them before they progress.

BOL  Gard

Buckwild...you making your own SHINE these days? LOL

I voted for 4 Star. I recently purchased my 4th 4 Star and no engineering issues at all with any of them. I have personally owned two Sundowners and had engineering issues with both! So, to me, it remains a no brainer....4 Star!

Thanks for everyone's input......

 I'll be ordering this in a couple of weeks..I want to drive up to the dealership (5 + hours one way) to see some things in person before I add or leave them out...I think the salesman said it'd take about 10 - 12 weeks for the trailer to come in after ordering..

for years, i pulled a 3H BP sooner trailer with a very large dressing area.  i had the AC added from the beginning (like you, i am a texas resident).  also had a couple of electrical outlets, shelf, etc put in.  but the most usable thing i had built as a large boot box, which went up against the slant wall.  the end closest to the entry door was angled so that is was not in the way when you went into the trailer.

then, when i wanted to lay down (actually had this done for the kids), there was a fold down board (i guess 3/4 inch plywood..it was covered with carpet) that would lay on top of the boot box, making an area long enough to sleep on, but when you wanted it out of the way, you just folded it back up against the wall and clipped it so it would stay.

in the many years i had that trailer, i never once used the AC because, when you go to most shows, you either have to pay to plug into an outlet  (and i was too cheap to pay just to have AC during the day) or, there just were no convenient outlets to plug into, or, the outlets were either too far away or already being used.  so take a heavy duty, ex-long extension cord with you and maybe you will get to use the AC.

but i also agree that if you are only going to use the trailer lightly, either sundowner or 4-star would be fine.  i would have to say 4-star is a more heavy-duty, tough built trailer, but you may not need that.  good luck.

Thanks Amysbean

I had been under the impression that a good marine battery with charger would run most of my interior stuff, but one of the earlier posters set me straight quick enough... being hooked to my car doesn't even help, because in MY car, you have to have the engine running to get any juice.

I plan on keeping this trailer for a long while ('til death do us part!) and will at some point in my future be doing a LOT more camping (I'm determined to start having more fun before I die), so I'm opting for the tuffer-built  4 star. .. plus, it's cheaper than Sundowner, even with more amenities on the 4 star.... Since it's so hot here in Texas, I usually only camp in October... The AC is not an absolute necessity as of now.... However, I will have it pre-wired with plugs, so as to drop in an AC later.. But what I actually end up doing inside remains to be seen.. ..I'll just have to play with it a little while..

When I first started looking at trailers, there was an older Sundowner that the owner had done up pretty nice (not fancy, mind you, but nice).. It was a 2 horse slant also, with an awning, an AC w/heat strip, interior plugs, and small college fridge, a small microwave, she'd made a fold-down wall-mounted table, and had a regular cot on the bulkhead wall. The fridge she'd somehow mounted on an attached wall shelf... The whole thing just appealed to my sense of gadgetry and that is basically what I picture when I think of how I want the inside of my DR to be like... A lot of this will have to come later, but I want "good bones" so as to be able to do what I choose when I am able to.... Plus, if you guys haven't guessed, I like fiddling with stuff and this will be a good project to keep me occupied....When I'm not working to get it paid for..LOL!  I'm gonna be doing a lot of overtime to pay for this little toy... I don't see how you guys do it with the big rigs ....I guess I could sell my children.. Hmmm.