A few years ago I had the DR of my TW GN converted to a small LQ. Due to the size of my mattress, I opted not to have storage/cabinets built into the nose. The inside of the nose appears to be fiberglass, and there are no supports.

To help make cooling the LQ more efficient, and prevent condensation during the winter, I would like to insulate the nose. There are no interior supports to drill into, and would otherwise drill directly into the skin, which doesn't seem like a good idea to me.

What is the best way to go about doing it? Do I just glue sections of foam board insulation directly to the nose (fiberglass)?

If I wanted to cover the insulation, would I need to somehow (glue?) attach some furring strips that stood out further than the insulation to ensure I created an air gap? And in doing so, install the foam board between such strips.

Any other ideas?

Personally, I prefer to not use adhesives in the sleeping area.

How far back, from the front of the trailer, is it fiberglass? If it's only the very front wall, and you have some wood on the floor of the sleeping area, you might be able to build a free-standing type framework. Anchor it to the floor of the sleeping area, and let the insulation rest against the fiberglass. If you use the thick sheets of styrofoam insulation, it will probably squeak and rub, but it shouldn't do much damage.

An alternative would be to build a framework and staple the bubble wrap with foil to the framework. No squeaks - but the bubble wrap with foil is more expensive.

Attach the framework to the nearest finished wall on either side. If you have carpeting, cut holes where you need to attach your framework.

the roof at the nose of my Titan is fiberglass... I haven't figured out a way to insulate that either due to it's shape and configuration. But I don't have a/c and don't plan on using the trailer in temps below 45-50 degrees either.

You can glue furring strips directly to the fiberglass using polyurethane construction adhesive. Insulation and wiring can be added between the strips, and your wall covering can be fastened to the surface of the strips.

Gard

Polyurethane adhesives will not adversely react with fiberglass FRP layups or wood. The fiberglass areas that will be glued should be cleaned and if possible, roughly abraded prior to an application of the adhesive. They will dry with no after cure smell; many are gap filling, and water and flame proof.

The polyurethane's are available in most big box store and hardware stores. There are several name brands available, being sold under "construction adhesives." They are available in tubes to fit standard caulking guns.

Gard